this was a crazy scenario. but sounds like what i have. when i put the new wash motor on it, i still get the 4-3 code. i do not have water supply hooked up. in order to do the diagnostics, does the water supply have to be on? the new pump/motor sounded like it had bad bearings in it when it tested that function. it seems strange that when you first enter the diagnostic mode, it will give the 4-3 code even before diagnostic starts. is that a stored code, or the code from the current test?RESOLUTION:
It was a bad wash motor. The first one I replaced it with was also bad. The second wash motor W11084656 from RepairClinic was good. What is really helpful is to measure resistance across the power inputs on any new motor. They need to read 5-15 Ohms. The first one read 20k-Ohms, the second one was10 Ohms or so. The control board was not the problem even though the input to the motor was not getting 120V. The 55V under load is apparently a 'ghost' voltage you can get when the motor is bad and its load then changes the circuit.
One other thing - unfortunately I could not find the entire bottom unit in stock at Repair Clinic. This necessitated hooking up the hoses, and those have horrible cheap clamps you are supposed to crimp, meant for one-time usage. This was a problem, as one of them leaked. You cannot replace these with normal hose clamps with screws like from an auto store, because the auto hose clamps are too fat. Fortunately I have an old Honda motorcycle and have some spare clamps that are narrow and (oh-so-barely) fit. With the decent hose clamps, 9mm wide with outside radius of 35mm, the leakage stopped. You can get these, but you'll have to order them. They cost about the same as the junk that comes with the dishwasher, so if you are ordering these you may as well get a type you can unscrew, and reuse.
Thanks for the help in thinking through this, it was a bit of a pain to figure out, but hey, now I have a new control board and new motor so that means it is going to last a long time, right?
Added model number
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