• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Kitchenaid Dishwasher KDTE234GPS0 not cleaning.

blessedpop

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2020
Messages
26
Location
dora, al
RESOLUTION:
It was a bad wash motor. The first one I replaced it with was also bad. The second wash motor W11084656 from RepairClinic was good. What is really helpful is to measure resistance across the power inputs on any new motor. They need to read 5-15 Ohms. The first one read 20k-Ohms, the second one was10 Ohms or so. The control board was not the problem even though the input to the motor was not getting 120V. The 55V under load is apparently a 'ghost' voltage you can get when the motor is bad and its load then changes the circuit.

One other thing - unfortunately I could not find the entire bottom unit in stock at Repair Clinic. This necessitated hooking up the hoses, and those have horrible cheap clamps you are supposed to crimp, meant for one-time usage. This was a problem, as one of them leaked. You cannot replace these with normal hose clamps with screws like from an auto store, because the auto hose clamps are too fat. Fortunately I have an old Honda motorcycle and have some spare clamps that are narrow and (oh-so-barely) fit. With the decent hose clamps, 9mm wide with outside radius of 35mm, the leakage stopped. You can get these, but you'll have to order them. They cost about the same as the junk that comes with the dishwasher, so if you are ordering these you may as well get a type you can unscrew, and reuse.

Thanks for the help in thinking through this, it was a bit of a pain to figure out, but hey, now I have a new control board and new motor so that means it is going to last a long time, right?
this was a crazy scenario. but sounds like what i have. when i put the new wash motor on it, i still get the 4-3 code. i do not have water supply hooked up. in order to do the diagnostics, does the water supply have to be on? the new pump/motor sounded like it had bad bearings in it when it tested that function. it seems strange that when you first enter the diagnostic mode, it will give the 4-3 code even before diagnostic starts. is that a stored code, or the code from the current test?

Added model number
 
Last edited by a moderator:

hartigan

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Houston
Try measuring the resistance across the power leads to the wash motor. It doesn't need to be plugged in. You better get 5-15 Ohms. When it first starts up it'll show you the code from the last time it did a diagnostic. There's a way to clear it (read the manual), or just run the test again and wait 20 minutes for it to finish and overwrite the code.
 

blessedpop

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2020
Messages
26
Location
dora, al
Try measuring the resistance across the power leads to the wash motor. It doesn't need to be plugged in. You better get 5-15 Ohms. When it first starts up it'll show you the code from the last time it did a diagnostic. There's a way to clear it (read the manual), or just run the test again and wait 20 minutes for it to finish and overwrite the code.
just did that. the new motor/pump reads 8.3 ohms and the bad motor/pump read 8.4 ohms. i think that just tells me the motor is good, but doesn't tell about the pump itself. when i connect the leads to the old pump and run diagnostics just some buzzing, but when i connect the new motor/pump and run diagnostics the pump spins but sounds like bearings are shot (which is why i was wondering if water supply should be connected because it isn't, it is sitting in my basement). i haven't let it go through the entire 20 minute diagnostic yet because of the bearing noise (this could be normal, but just didnt sound right, probably because there is no water in or being supplied to the pump).
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,430
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
(which is why i was wondering if water supply should be connected because it isn't, it is sitting in my basement)
Yes, you need the water supply hooked up to it.

What is the model number of your dishwasher @blessedpop ?

The model number tag is located inside the door on the tub frame.

Jake
 

blessedpop

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2020
Messages
26
Location
dora, al
Yes, you need the water supply hooked up to it.

What is the model number of your dishwasher @blessedpop ?

The model number tag is located inside the door on the tub frame.

Jake
Kitchenaide KDTE234GPS0. yes i figured the pump was making the noise because it was running dry, so i did finally reconnect the water supply back to it.

so what i did was searched amazon for the correct pump/motor, which is a W11084656. the W10510667 kept coming up in the search results, and based on the very similar specs and the low price i found for a used pump, i thought, what the heck, and i ordered it. i am just that way, curious. and when it came in, i installed it and it fit perfectly. but during the wash cycle and test cycle it would only pulse, and not run continuous, and strangely gave the 4-3 error during some test cycles and clear in other test cycles. as i mentioned before i ohmed both the original and this new W10510667 pump and they both showed 8.4 ohms, within the 5-15ohm tolerance. so i was convinced the original motor was good, but puzzled why i was getting the 4-3 error with it.

In a search for that dishwasher and pump issue, i found a guy who installed the pump by separating the pump from the volute with the pump still installed on the dishwasher; just a quarter turn does it. since i had my original pump off the dishwasher, i took my original pump and separated it from the volute with a quarter turn. i noticed a very fine hair/string attached to the pump impeller. i pulled it off and spun the impeller with my fingers. then i disconnected the power lead from the W10510667 that was still installed on the dishwasher and ran a test cycle with the pump/motor half of the original pump detached from the washer but attached to the power lead. during that test cycle, the impeller spun off the shaft. i threaded the impeller back on the shaft and continued through the test, and there was no error at the end of the test cycle. so i reinstalled the old original pump on the dishwasher and then ran it through a couple of normal wash cycles and a couple of prowash cycles and had no errors, the original pump now seems to be working fine. not sure how long it will last.

still not sure why that W10510667 doesn't work, but i did try it. the specs are very similar to the W11084656, just 0.1A more draw and little higher wattage.

thanks to all for the assistance.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,430
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, I never trust amazon for any parts or parts information. That's buying a car or truck engine or transmission from Walmart, it ain't goin happen. LOL


I ONLY deal with authorized OEM appliance parts distributers like AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic, all parts from them ALWAYS has a 365 day warranty.

Here is the OEM wash motor assembly for your model: W11084656 Motor-Pump

Sure you might pay more for OEM but I never had to go back to a jobsite to change it out ever again.:)

Jake
 
Top