KitchenAid Dishwasher KDTE254ESS2 with Multiple Error Codes

[Unrelated]

Model Number

KDTE254ESS2

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

1-5 years

My dishwasher has been running without issue for a couple years, until now. When starting a cycle, it fills with water, then stops and turns on the Cancel light. Hot water remains in the bottom of the basin.

So far, I've put it in diagnostic mode, which returned code 4-4 (circulation pump) and 8-4 (drain pump). I manually drained the water and checked the drain filter, it was clear. I then pulled the drain hose and drain pump from underneath and found no obstructions. It appears clear and spins freely. I also checked the drain hose at the garbage disposal end to make sure it wasn't blocked and that was clear.

The circulation pump can't be reached without pulling the unit from the cabinets, which I would rather wait until a new circulation pump arrives before I bother with that, but will if needed.

It seems unlikely that both pumps would suddenly go bad at the same time. Should I be looking at something that manages them both, like a control board? The area under the dishwasher is dry and clean. It still looks new down there so I'm at a loss. Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Jake]

My dishwasher has been running without issue for a couple years, until now. When starting a cycle, it fills with water, then stops and turns on the Cancel light. Hot water remains in the bottom of the basin.

When it turns on the Cancel light do you hear any sound at all from the drain motor or wash motor?

How do you get the water to drain? Do you reset your house breaker to reset dishwasher to clear the Cancel light?

Yes, check your control board and see if it has any burnt spots on it.

Here's the control board for your model: W10866124
Check your owners manual warranty, some KitchenAid models have a 5 yr. warranty on the control board.

Here's your service manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10A6C6XdX98ZCaI8H9pR1_kL5oGeWf9hL/view?usp=sharing

Page 4-5 shows you how to removal the door panel to access it. Make sure you disconnect power to the dishwasher first.

Jake

 

[Unrelated]

Thanks for the tips and resources, Jake.

The drain motor clicks and whirrs for a few seconds when the Cancel light turns on, but no water movement. I clear the Cancel light by either holding the Cancel button for 3 seconds or unplugging the dishwasher (mine isn't hardwired). Each test run, to empty the water manually, I pull the drain filter and use a cup and turkey baster to scoop the water into the sink.

I've removed the control board and don't see any obvious signs of damage. Is there a way to test the motor fuse on the control board? On page 6-4 of the manual, it says, "If both the wash and drain motors fail to operate, motor fuse is open. Replace Control." But that doesn't seem very conclusive.

 

[Jake]

On page 6-4 of the manual, it says, "If both the wash and drain motors fail to operate, motor fuse is open. Replace Control." But that doesn't seem very conclusive.

Look below that on Page 6-4--->If only wash or drain motor operates, fuse is OK. Use meter to measure non-operational motor’s (3) phase resistances.

So since the drain motor is at least doing something, then that fuse is good.

So it sounds like a problem in the control board software causing this issue.

Also, run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that and see if that resolves the problem.

Jake

 

[Unrelated]

I ran the full diagnostic cycle, all the way through. Once it was done, it showed error code 8-4 again, but that was the only one. The basin was empty when I started but ended the cycle with water in the bottom.

Also, I thought it was the drain pump that was clicking and making noises but it seems to be the pump behind it. According to the service manual, this would be the wash motor. I reached in and touched them to confirm which was making the noise and could feel it from the pump further back.

I attempted to run a normal wash cycle afterward, with water still in the basin. The wash motor ran again but the drain pump in front did not. Then the Cancel light came on end the cycle ended.

Between the error code and realizing the sounds are coming from a different pump. Signs are pointing to the drain pump going bad. What do you think?

 

[Jake]

Yes, You should be hearing the wash(circulation) motor running and the sound of water splashing in the tub AFTER it fills with water.

Sounds like you either have a foreign object in the WASH MOTOR, thus its just clicking/humming and not running or some other type of semi-clog in it causing this problem, I'd remove the WASH MOTOR and take it apart to see if something is in it.

If you find nothing in it, then its a bad WASH MOTOR and you'd need to replace it.

Here's the CIRCULATION PUMP(aka WASH MOTOR) for your model: W10894668

This video gives you the general idea of how to remove and replace it:

Jake

 

[Jake]

Also, Check for 120 volts at the drain pump electrical connector when the drain pump should be running, if you get 120 volts to the drain pump and its not running, then its bad.

For others following your thread--->When you click the drain pump part link below you will see a video of how to remove and replace it.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump WPW10531320


Jake