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FIXED KitchenAid Dishwasher KDTE334GPS0 - Intermittent issue - Cycle starts, then stops and drains - Getting worse

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seskally

Premium Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
8
Location
FL
Model Number
KDTE334GPS0
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
I push the Start button once to wake the machine and once to start the cycle. Close the door. Blue light comes on and all seems normal. Then within 2-5 minutes the washer drains and the blue light turns off. If I catch it in time the Cancel light is blinking. If not the dishwasher goes to standby mode with no lights on. I then try the process again. At first I had to repeat the process 2 or 3 times. Now it's more like 10 times.

I checked the filter in the bottom of the tub. Nothing crazy in there and nothing weird in the chopper area.

Used another post to enter the dishwasher diagnostic mode. At the beginning of the diagnostics the error code is 4-4. At the end of the diagnostic cycle it shows 4-4 and 6-1. I've done this diagnostic cycle twice with the exact same results.

4-4 seems to be the circulation pump or ECB.

6-1 could be water inlet valve or ECB.

My gut tells me ECB since the dishwasher will eventually complete it's cycle but is there a way to narrow this down? If it is the ECB, any repair tutorials on how to do that repair?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,963
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, 4-4 is the wash motor failure. These wash motors are very common to go bad and cause this problem you are now having.

After it fills the wash motor should come on and you should hear water splashing in the tub, if not then It's most likely a bad wash motor, this has become a common problem as of late, many members here have reported the same. In fact I had 2 this past Sept. 2018 in Parker, Arizona that did the exact same thing, and the new wash motor fixed them both.:)

Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.

I'd first check to see if your getting 120 volts to the wash motor when it should be in the wash cycle.
dishwash120volts.jpg

Take the wire connector off the wash motor and use a multimeter to see if yours is getting 120 volts when it should be washing, if so and it's not running order the wash motor below.

Here's the wash motor for your model you can order: W10894668

This video gives you the general idea of how to remove and replace the washer motor:

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
123,963
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 

seskally

Premium Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
8
Location
FL
Okay, so I'm handy, but I've never worked on dishwashers besides installing.

My plug has 3 connectors. Which 2 do I test with the meter?

I've included pics of the pump (I think), the plug on the pump, and the plug itself.

plug.jpgpump.jpgpumpclose.jpg
 

seskally

Premium Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
8
Location
FL
So I hooked up a meter to the 2 outside plug contacts (left the middle one alone). Just sitting idle it shows 8-10V.

After the tub fills the meter starts going crazy. Readings all over the place. See attached.

I did test the meter in a plug. Showed consistent voltage around 120V.

meter1.jpg

 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,963
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, on your wash motor its variable speed, sorry I forgot about that, so you can't test for 120 volts to it, you can only ohm test it to see if its good.

Here's the diagram to ohm test it, the top one on the right is the variable speed wash motor, ohm test it PIN to PIN and your meter should read 10 to 20 ohms.

Screenshot 2021-05-27 08.22.56.png


Jake
 

seskally

Premium Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
8
Location
FL
No problem, you've been a great help already. And ummm....118K messages??? Wow!

Okay, testing any combination of 2 pins on the motor shows 17.5 ohms.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,963
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, so that means your wash motor is good. Then it has to be a faulty control board.

Here's the control board for your model:
Control Board W11120155


Check your owners manual warranty, some KitchenAid dishwashers have a 5 year warranty on the electronic parts, which includes the control board.

Yes, 118K messages since 2004.:)

Jake
 

seskally

Premium Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
8
Location
FL
Thank you so much!
I’ll get it ordered and report back after installation.
 

seskally

Premium Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
8
Location
FL
I did check with Kitchenaid. Electronic controls are covered for 5 years. Here's the kicker... They want to send out a tech for $130 to determine the issue we've already determined. So if they for some reason determine it's the pump, well that's not covered. If they do arrive at the same conclusion, I doubt they'll have a control board on hand. So that's a second trip and maybe more labor.

So for $180-ish I can do it myself and on my own timeline which will probably be quicker than scheduling 2 appointments with the repair place. Oh, and the company they use has 551 Google reviews with 3.4 stars. Too many unknowns and I'm out $130 for them to just come look at it.

I had the same problem with a Samsung dryer. The labor for a 30 minute repair was going to be $300. Yeah...no thanks. Bought the part for $100 and did it myself.

Like I said, I'll order and report back after the install. Thanks again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
123,963
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, yes I know what you mean.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

seskally

Premium Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
8
Location
FL
As I write this the control board has been replaced and the washer is well into a full cycle on it's first try so I think we're in good shape.

I used this YouTube link to help with the control board replacement:

My washer was a bit different than the video. Mine doesn't have a decorative panel, just stainless. I had to remove all 8 door screws along with the 2 latch screws and lift the outer door panel off. I had to be careful as the control board was not on the inner door panel but the outer door panel I just removed. Removing the control board is similar to the video although my locking tab was a bit different. I depressed the tab and slid the control board towards the outside of the door panel (away from the middle) and it slid off.

I took a picture of all the connections before removing them to make sure they got back in the right spot. I didn't use every plug on the board.

Mine has a small piece of trim that runs along the entire top inner edge of the panel just above the door latch. It's tough to put the door panel back on if that trim is left on the outer door panel. I removed it and placed it on the inner door panel top edge which made replacing the outer door panel easier.

After that it was a matter of simply lining up all the screws and tightening them up. Flipped the breaker back on and ran the washer - back in business!

A special shout out to Jake - you da man!!!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,963
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent seskally, glad to hear the new control board fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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