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FIXED Kitchenaid dishwasher KDTE404DSP0 stays stuck at beginning of cycle.

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Richrd0001

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Aug 20, 2021
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Location
Wyoming
Model Number
KDTE404DSP0
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Per advice from well known tech advice site, I replaced circulation pump and control board but am back to the original problem.

The unit will fill, drain, and fill again and then it just stays stuck on
(1) pump (?) hums,
(2) there's a clunk five seconds later,
(3) five second pause, then
(4) back to (1) and repeat without stopping until I open the door.

Soap dispenser door does not open.

After I installed the new control board the unit worked perfectly for about seven times then the original problem reappeared.

I tried pressing options on the LED panel in the sequence 1,2,3, 1,2,3, 1,2,3. This causes all the lights to turn on. I've read elsewhere if one then closes the door some kind of a diagnostic cycle starts but it doesn't, even if I let the unit sit for several minutes. If I open the door again, all the lights are out.

I'd like to know (1) what is going on and, specifically, (2) how to generate some kind of diagnostic code so that I don't have another pointless expense of new pump and new control panel following the by-guess-and-by-golly diagnostic approach that seems to have been used before.

I have turned the power off at the breaker and let it sit for over an hour and done the same several other times with just a one-minute wait.

Any advice would be much appreciated, of course.

Added complete model number
 
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Jake

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KDTE404DS is just a partial model number, we need the complete model number first. The model number tag is inside the door on the tub frame.

So the circulation wash motor is still NOT running after it fills with water? Remove the electrical connector to that circulation wash motor and put your meter probes in it and see if you get 120 volts after it fills, when it should be running.

dishwash120volts.jpg
 

Richrd0001

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Location
Wyoming
Thanks for your reply. Sorry, the full number is KDTE404DSP0.

I'll check that voltage. Note that the (new) pump did work after I installed the circuit board. The unit completed about seven new cycles and washed the dishes so it had to be working.

PS -- after trying the 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2,3 key reset sequence and pressing start and closing the door, I got the "end" button LED to light in a 3-2 sequence which, according to manuals I've seen, translates into a faulty temperature sensor or something wrong in that circuit. I'll check the voltage tomorrow and post again.
 

Jake

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Thanks! I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

Yes, I know but you said it reappeared.
After I installed the new control board the unit worked perfectly for about seven times then the original problem reappeared.

3-2 is Thermistor/OWI Shorted
Incoming water temperature above 167°F (75°C)).
- Shorted connection or component in Temperature Sensing Circuit.
- Shorted or faulty temperature sensor.
- Temperature sensor input on control.

What to Check:
1. Check incoming water temperature.
2. Check operation of temperature sensor in Service Diagnostic cycle.
3. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
4. Check all components and connections in the Temperature Sensing Circuit with meter. Fix/ replace shorted wires/part. (See OWI Sensor strip circuit.)

Here's the Thermistor/OWI for your model:
Turbidity Sensor WPW10705575



Jake
 

Attachments

  • Tech Sheet - W10543820 - Rev B.pdf
    1,019.9 KB · Views: 27

Richrd0001

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Location
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Thank you for your input. Yes, the problem reappeared but I think it's unlikely after a new pump and circuit board were installed there were some seven complete, normal wash/dry cycles and then the pump went bad. The pump I replaced would also work at the very beginning of the cycle (or when pressing "cancel"). I could see water being dumped in the disposer. And I could hear a swishing sound when the pump (after "start") got into its eternal loop. The new pump behaves the same way. I can see water being dumped and I can feel the pump vibrate with my hand. I say the pump is not the problem.

I tried to measure the voltage as you recommended but at most I got 1 volt or 6 volts after pressing "cancel" or "start" but I think the power connector must actually be seated in the pump for anything to happen. With the connector out, nothing happens at all. But, as I say, the evidence of water dumping into the disposal, feeling the motor vibrate, and seeing water afterwards dripping from the dish racks and on the dishes tell me it's working and water is being sprayed around inside. Problem is the unit won't advance past the very first part of the cycle after the initial fill, empty, and refill.

I don't know how I got that error code but there it was after fiddling with the 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2,3 reset sequence. (It has the same type of blink code as the computer in my old Honda!) That's the most specific indication I've gotten about the actual problem. I'll pursue the steps you outlined to see if this code holds the secret to restored functioning. :)

That said, could you help me with getting the unit to enter the service diagnostic cycle, please? Certain web sites instruct on how to initiate that but they assume the control panel is on the outside of the door and that one can enter the codes while the door is closed. Then the diagnostics are supposed to run for some 20 minutes.

My controls are at the top edge of the door and the door has to be open for me to press any button. The best I can do is to get all of the control button LEDs to light up after going through the reset sequence but if I shut the door and wait nothing happens. When I open the door after, say, 40 minutes all the LEDs are dark and no error code is flashing. The time I saw the 3-2 code I think I entered the reset sequence and THEN pressed start before closing the door. However, I can't duplicate that now and need help in getting the diagnostics to run. They supposedly involve actual operation of the unit and I never hear anything happen after I press the reset sequence. The time I saw the 3-2 code there was no sound of operation and it was just there when I opened the door. The tech sheet is vague and poorly written to say the least and I can't figure out how to get to the diagnostics.

Bottom line: thanks for your input. I'll try installing new thermistor and OWI gizmo. Help with entering the diagnostics would be appreciated.
 

Jake

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Look at the tech. data sheet page 3--->Service Diagnostics Cycle--->Pay attention to the INTERVALS in that chart. INTERVAL 25 will show the first error code.

Then look on page 6--->Service Diagnostics with Error Codes.

Your meter needs to SHOW 120 volts at the electrical connector after it fills with water.

If your meter leads are too big, use this safety pin trick:
safety pin 500x250.jpg


Jake
 

Richrd0001

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Wow. Thank you for all your effort to give me the information. I'll try that with the safety pins! I don't understand why you emphasize the pump issue though. Isn't it conclusive on the question of defective pump or not that I can feel the pump vibrate and see the water being pumped out of the unit into the disposal? Or, is it the ABSENCE of the correct voltage that you're after, leading you to consider another possible problem?

And hopefully I can master the diagnostic procedure.
 
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Jake

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Or, is it the ABSENCE of the correct voltage that you're after
Not the ABSENCE of correct voltage, but the correct 120 volts but the wash motor running when 120 volts is going to it.

This wash motor is notorious for going bad.

Jake
 

Richrd0001

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Copy that. I'll check more on that voltage but I find it hard to believe that a brand new wash motor would go back after a mere seven complete problem-free cycles. And to reiterate, isn't my observation of water dumping into the disposal with a good strong stream when I hear the pump operating conclusive evidence that the pump IS working? Even the supposedly bad pump that I removed did that, making me believe that I was not given good advice initially from that other tech.
 

Jake

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I find it hard to believe that a brand new wash motor would go back after a mere seven complete problem-free cycles.
Where you buy it makes all the difference in the world, parts you get on amazon and ebay usually do only last a very short time then go bad again. There are many threads and posts here that prove that true.

We recommend getting OEM parts from AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic, all parts from them ALWAYS has a 365 day warranty.

And to reiterate, isn't my observation of water dumping into the disposal with a good strong stream when I hear the pump operating conclusive evidence that the pump IS working?
That would be the DRAIN PUMP, I'm referring to the CIRCULATION PUMP(aka WASH MOTOR).:)

Your model has a CIRCULATION PUMP(aka WASH MOTOR) and a DRAIN PUMP.:)

Here's the CIRCULATION PUMP(aka WASH MOTOR) for your model: W10894668

Jake
 

Richrd0001

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Location
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Whew. I checked and that is the part number for the pump that I just installed.

Scratch what I said about feeling the pump vibrate. I don't think that's a reliable indicator as vibration from the drain pump may be felt as vibration IN the circulation pump. (Obviously, you're right about the drain pump being the cause of the water I reported being dumped into the disposal.)

Now get this: I was just now experimenting with trying to feel which pump might be doing what and, lo, the unit started to operate normally. It's still churning away with all sounds consistent with normal operation. I'll run additional cycles to see if this normal operation continues.

I wonder if the turbidity sensor "sees" clear(er) water after the unit sits for a day or so and so normal functioning can proceed. Anyway my action plan is to remove the sensor and see if it can be cleaned and reinserted. If that works I can return the sensor that I ordered per your helpful link. If that doesn't work then I'll try the new sensor and see what's what.

Thanks as always for your help. I'll report back on what I find out.
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds like a plan.:)

Yes, remove the OWI soil sensor and clean the lens on it, another member did that and it fixed this problem. Turn the breaker to your dishwasher off first before removing it and cleaning it.

Then, run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Jake
 

Jake

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You bet!

Jake
 

Richrd0001

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Hi, Jake,

I am back where I started with the cycle repeating right after the initial fill and empty and refill. There's five seconds of watery swishing sound, five seconds of silence, a clunk, then seven seconds of silence. This 5-5-7 sequence will go on for as long as I let it.

Note that ALL control panels will go out when I hear the clunk sound then they will immediately go back on and then a few seconds till the swishing sound. (I can see lights with the door closed.)

I've replaced circulation pump, control board and turbidity sensor. Before I replaced the sensor but after replacement of control panel, the washer worked fine. Then it went to staying eternally in the wash cycle. Then it went to the 5-5-7 sequence.

I've tried to run the diagnostic sequence by pressing three keys as in 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2,3 right after each other. When I do it right, all the lights light up and shine steadily. If I shut the door I sometimes here something take place inside the unit but it's only a very short time. Mostly it's a silent process. When I open the door, all the lights are out. I am not getting any kind of an error code. No sensor calibration cycle takes place when I press "start" and close the door. It's back to the 5-5-7 sequence.

I wonder if I am doing it correctly and maybe all status and last run info is not being cleared and defaults are not being restored.

I also don't think that turning off the power at the breaker switch is effecting a reset. Letting the unit sit for a minute (or overnight) doesn't help to restore normal functioning. Oddly, if the unit is in the midst of the 5-5-7 sequence when I turn off the power at the breaker switch, when I restore power the control panel will not be dark (presumably in "standby" mode) but the "start" light, "add dish" light, and "washing" lights will be flashing when I open the door. That indicates to me that no "reset" took place. The last phase prior to turning off the power is still in the memory of the control board. If I press "start" and close the door, the 5-5-7 sequence starts.

PS -- the old turbidity sensor wasn't that obstructed. A light film on the bulb was all I saw. I didn't attempt to clean and reinsert. I just went with the new sensor.

I would be grateful if you had any ideas on this.

Kindest regards,

Richard
 

Jake

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Ok Richard,

Ok, this model has the problematic door vent, that can also cause all these problems you are having.

Do this first--->Disconnect all the wire connectors to your door vent and see if it runs through a complete cycle.

Start reading what bigbuck said at post#18 here:

Your model uses the exact same door vent. If it runs through a complete cycle and everything is back to normal, then order and replace the door vent assembly.

Here it is for your model you can order:
WPW10469574 Vent


To access the vent assembly you will need a T-15 torx screwdriver: Remove 4 screws (long) across top of door, then remove 10 screws (short) on the sides, then the outer door panel pulls off.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jake

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Yes, many members hear almost gave up till our tech @bigbuck mentioned this issue, and you can search our forum and see its been the issue with lots of these dishwasher problems.

Jake
 

Richrd0001

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Well, that was the problem. I unhooked the connections and the dishwasher made it through a complete cycle with no problems. I ordered the new vent and should be good to go in a few days.

Thanks again for your help.
 

Jake

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Excellent, glad to hear that.(y)

Jake
 
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