FIXED Kitchenaid Dishwasher KUDE70FVSS2 Lights Blinking 6-1

[Brian99]

Model Number

KUDE70FVSS2

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

More than 10 years

I am having similar problems with my KUDE70FVSS2. I've had it for over 10 years and have already replaced the motor once. I have been getting the 6-1 error code recently but after clearing, it would complete the next cycle. Then I started noticing water left in the bottom after it completed a cycle. Pressing cancel and closing the door drains it every time. Now I've noticed that the dishes are not clean, but it ends with the 'clean' light on and no error codes.

I just tried to run a diagnostic cycle twice and each time it starts the diagnostic, I can hear the water enter, I hear the motor, then it starts draining and then abruptly stops. All lights turn off. The cycle lasts less than 2 minutes. If I open the door, press cancel and close the door, the drain starts again but there's just a small amount of water left. Any ideas?

 

[Jake]

Hi Brian,

Rick pretty much laid it out in this thread what to check for with the error code 6-1 your getting, if the wash motor checks good and the door latch switch assembly checks good, then it has to be a bad control board.

And from the other issues your getting, it sounds like the control board is malfunctioning.

Rick posted the control board in post #33 for this model.

Jake

 

[Brian99]

Hi Jake,

I have a little more information before I buy a new control board. The diagnostic test I was trying to run was the mode without error codes (heat dry > normal > heat dry > normal) but the mode with error codes (repeat sequence 3x) completed as expected. It finished with codes 1-1, 6-1 and 3-3. When I took off the kick plate, I noticed that there is an inline fuse or something on a blue wire near the front with one wire going in and two wires coming out. It has been discolored, assuming from overheating, but not charred. Could this be the problem? Or part of the problem?

Sorry if this should be a different thread for the different error code.

 

[Jake]

Take a photo of that wire and upload it here.

1-1 is Control Pilot stuck ON
Control detected K2 relay stuck closed.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Check all loads for shorts.
3. Replace control and all faulty components.

Jake

 

[Brian99]

Here’s the wire. I’ll have to do some research on testing for shorts and get back to you.
Thanks again.

 

[Jake]

Oh, that is the in-line motor inverter fuse I was talking to you about in your previous thread, look at post #8:

FIXED - KUDE70FVSS2 Kitchenaid DW fills, drains, won't wash

Here's another one where the dishwasher will fill and drain several times but it won't wash. Nothing gets wet except the bottom. It will fill and drain several times, just no washing. I've seen several of these where it needed to be cleaned but they all seem to be for a different type of...

www.applianceblog.com

Jake

 

[Brian99]

Hi Jake,
I ordered the in-line motor inverter fuse and replaced it a few days ago. After replacing it, the error codes stopped showing up and all seemed OK at first. But for the last two cycles, it seems to go through each stage successfully but the dishes are still dirty. I took a look at the control board and noticed that the wires look like they overheated. The motor power wires were melted into the black rubber pad on the inside of the door. The wires look OK, just dirty and gooey. The electrical tape that was holding the wires in place was falling apart and left goo all over the wires.

I noticed two more fuses. One of them looks like the same in-line fuse that I just replaced. The wire looks identical (blue with yellow stripe). The only difference was the one on the bottom had an additional blue wire on one side. And there is an inline fuse going to what I think is another fuse (the dime-sized round component). The fuse sleeves are discolored so I can't tell if they are blown.

What would you suggest at this point?

 

[Jake]

Yes, that gooey black stuff is just that door insulation melted onto the wires, that's no big deal.

Did you ohm test the other in-line fuse?

The round one is the thermal fuse, that kills power to the dishwasher completely, so that one can't be bad if the dishwasher is at least doing something.

Jake

 

[Jake]

I moved your posts to your own thread, for less confusion.

If you are not getting 120 volts to the wash motor and that in-line fuse ohm tests good, then the control board is the culprit.

Here's the control board for your model:

Whirlpool WPW10285178 Electronic Control Board (AP6018709) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Electronic Control Board WPW10285178 / AP6018709 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[Brian99]

OK, I tested the fuse and it's OK. After cleaning some of the goo, what I thought was an inline fuse before the thermal fuse was just a junction of two wires into one. I think the motor is getting voltage just fine; I can hear it running throughout the cycle. The last two times were odd because it sounded like everything was ok.

Is there a way to test the control board? Or do you think it could be something else?

 

[Jake]

If the wash motor is running, then the control board should be fine, unless its intermittently running.

There is no way to run a test on the control board alone, but you can disconnect power to the dishwasher and remove the control board and look for any burnt spots on the control board or burnt/brownish colored components on the control board that would cause this problem.

Jake

 

[Brian99]

Hi Jake,
I ran another diagnostic test and it came back with diverter codes 4-1 before the test and 4-4, 4-3 after the test. The 4-1 is "Can't find position"; 4-4 is "Stuck on" and 4-3 is "Future use".

Before I buy a diverter, is there anything I should check?

 

[Brian99]

I ordered the diverter anyway...hopefully this fixes it!

 

[Jake]

Lets hope so.

I'm attaching the tech. data sheet for your model below. The tech data sheet says to Replace diverter and/or control board.

Here's the diverter motor for your model:
W10155344 Diverter Motor


There is a video in the diverter motor part link that shows you how to replace it.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[Brian99]

Just to follow up on this, I replaced the diverter and reran the diagnostics, which came back clean. It runs through all of the cycles fine and cleans the dishes like it used to, but there is one remaining issue. It will not drain after the cycle completes. I drains several times during the cycle but after the cycle, it seems to skip the last step and the 'clean' light illuminates. If I open the door and press the cancel button twice, then close the door, it will drain just fine.

Everything else seems to be working perfectly. It's a small annoyance that I can live with for now but would like to resolve it if anyone has any suggestions.

 

[Jake]

Excellent Brian, glad to hear the new diverter motor fixed it.

Whenever you replace a part on this dishwasher its good to do a basic reset and calibration per running the diagnostics cycle WITHOUT error codes.

To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle(without error codes), perform the following key presses or actions in less than 6 seconds while in standby:
Heated Dry ➙ Normal ➙ Heated Dry ➙ Normal

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last ran information from memory and restores defaults; it also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.
--->Calibration cycle forces two rinses to occur prior to Final Rinse (to assure clear water), then calibrates the OWI during the final rinse.

Let it run all the way through, it will take about 22 minutes.

Jake

 

[Brian99]

Hi Jake,

I tried running the diagnostic without error codes as you suggested. The diagnostic cycle completed and drained but the next regular cycle ended without draining. I repeated the process and got the same results - the diagnostic drains but when running a regular cycle, it skips the last drain. No flashing codes, just the 'clean' LED on. It's as if the last drain step was deleted from the program.

Any other thoughts?

 

[Jake]

Ok Brian,

I'd first check your voltage with a multimeter at the drain pump electrical terminal wires, it should be 120 volts at the drain pump when its in the FINAL drain cycle. If you get 120 volts and the drain pump isn't running, then its bad.

When you click the drain pump part link you will see a video of how to access it.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump WPW10348269


If you DON'T get 120 volts at the drain pump electrical terminal wires at the FINAL drain cycle, then your control board software is corrupted and you'd to order the new control board I posted in post #9 above.

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[Brian99]

Hi Jake,

I think I'm going to let this one go for now. The pump works fine during the wash cycles, just not the final one so it seems the control board software is the issue. The annoyance of having to press the cancel button manually after a wash cycle is not yet at the threshold where I would want to replace the control board.

Thanks for all of your help!

-Brian

 

[Jake]

Ok Brian, sounds good.

Jake