FIXED Kitchenaid dishwasher KUDS30SXSS8 won't turn on

ERose

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Alberta
Model Number
KUDS30SXSS8
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
Hello! My kitchenaid dishwasher stopped mid-cycle last night. When I opened it, it had water in the base, about an inch and the detergent pod did not release. There is no power to the control panel (none of the buttons light up / work) so it won't turn on. I tried reseting the household fuse from the electrical panel and nothing happened. I checked that there is indeed power going into the unit but when I took the door cover off, I tested the power wires that go up to the control panel (with a continuity meter) they registered as receiving no power.

When looking online for a solution everything I read pointed to the replacement of the thermal fuse... only this model does not have a thermal fuse that I can find (no thermal fuse is listed in it's parts list for this model). However, it does have a thermostat - could that be the problem? I also checked the float switch and it still makes the click sound when lifted so looks like it is still working. What is stopping the power from reaching the control panel? Is there another fuse that has blown underneath the unit? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have attached a photo of underneath the dishwasher as well as one of the control panel for reference.

Thanks.

IMG_5157.JPGIMG_5161.JPG
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,133
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Check for 120 VAC between P4-1 and P4-2. It sounds like the triac fuse is open on the control. Measure the resistance between P5 and P10-1. Less than 3 ohms the fuse is good. Greater than 3 ohms replace the control:
Triac fuse.jpg

Control Board W10479761
whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10479761-ap5620234_01_m.jpg
 

ERose

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Alberta
Checked and Tested

Check for 120 VAC between P4-1 and P4-2. It sounds like the triac fuse is open on the control. Measure the resistance between P5 and P10-1. Less than 3 ohms the fuse is good. Greater than 3 ohms replace the control:

Hi Rick - thanks for your suggestion.

With my continuity meter I tested P4-1 and P4-2 together and got a reading of 244.6 mVAC and when I tested the resistance between P5 and P10-1 I received 0.3 ohms.

Please let me know your thoughts for diagnosis and next steps.

Thanks,
 

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,133
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
With my continuity meter I tested P4-1 and P4-2 together and got a reading of 244.6 mVAC
P4-1 & 2 is supply voltage to the board. Check the main supply line at the lower right and make sure you have 120 VAC at the dishwasher. No voltage, check the circuit breaker. If the meter indicates 120 VAC then follow the black wire up to the control and check for a thermal fuse.
 

ERose

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Alberta
K - so I checked the voltage at the main supply and it was fine. I tightened the electrical connections and suddenly the power on the panel came on. So, in the end it was loose wiring that was the cause.

Thanks for your help!
 
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