KitchenAid electric range model YKESA907PP00 membrane switch (touch pad) issues

[JayBoy]

Model Number

YKESA907PP00

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

More than 10 years

Hi,
Is there a way to distinguish whether touch pad issues are due to touch pad damage, harness connecting touch pad to control board, or to control board?
The problem seemed to start overnight with parts of the touch pad responding while parts would not. For a while it seemed that one of the double burners was out (rapid, continuous clicking shortly after turned on), but now it appears fine. On power resets, I think that now different parts of the numerical pad are responding, but what hasn't changed is that bake button does not respond while convection bake does (but one cannot set the temperature because only 4,5,6,9 and 0 respond). That is, the first row on the touch pad (and numerical pad) does not respond, second row does (on both), anything below is a mix of responsive/nonresponsive buttons.
I saw a suggestion to clean harness contacts, but on this model, they are not accessible. Compressed Air on harness contacts and electronic board gave no results. Would it help and would it be safe to try DeoxIt (IF I can find it)? I hear from techs that parts are also hard to find. Any advice would be appreciated.
BTW, this is not the original touch pad. It's been replaced once, and I believe that control board may have been too.

 

[Dan O.]

The unit's wiring diagram sometimes contains the switching pattern (aka 'matrix') that allows testing of the individual keypad buttons. I don't have access to your wiring diagram to see if it might include it. Not all wiring diagrams do. (Few actually do).

I did find a keypad matrix elsewhere which might help you to test yours. Do a systematic test of exactly which buttons do not function then compare to the ribbon traces illustrated in the graphic. You may be able to test for continuity between them when each button is pressed to see if it's a keypad issue or not..

I'm not positive how to interpret this graphic but I believe when pressing Bake, there should be continuity made between ribbon trace 8-16. When pressing 3 continuity between 8-12. etc.

Keypad Matrix


Often consecutive buttons have a common electrical connection. A whole section of the keypad failing is often a keypad or connection problem rather than an electronic control issue. The type of connector used on your model isn't as problematic as the more common type and would be less likely to be responsible on your model IMO.

would it be safe to try DeoxIt (

I have no idea what that is.

I hear from techs that parts are also hard to find.

The white keypad for your model looks to be discontinued.

LINK > YKESA907PP00 White keypad # wp9756595wh

The keypad from the stainless steel version of your model looks to still be available and might not look too out of place on your range if needed.

LINK > YKESA907PS00 Stainless steel keypad # WP9756595ES


Dan O.

 

[JayBoy]

Many thanks for your reply and for the diagram. I'll check it out some more and let you know if I can find a pattern. I managed to find 1 white keypad (last one and no returns, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed). I was going to attempt a repair on my own. Not sure what I'd need for testing individual buttons. The keypad is, I am guessing, unrepairable, right?
DeoxIt is an electronic/electric connector cleaner (removes oxidized layer, supposedly). It's quite pricey and hard to find in Canada. I see on youtube that cleaners - that are basically 99% alcohol in a spray - are used for cleaning PCs. So, last night, I tried 91% alcohol on the harness side of the harness connector, but it made no difference whatsoever.
Thank you again.
Jay

 

[bigbuck]

@Dan O. It uses the same tech sheet posted in this old thread:

KERA807 Membrane Switch Issue

I purchased a second-hand Kitchenaid KERA807 Architect Series Electric Range. When I got it home, I found that on the front membrane switch for the oven, several of the buttons did not work. I have included a link HERE to a picture of the membrane switch. On this switch the following buttons...

www.applianceblog.com

 

[Dan O.]

Thanks bb but this model calls for Tech Sheet # 9757662. The other one doesn't show the keypad matrix anyway though. That was mainly what I was looking for at the time.

 

[bigbuck]

Here is the tech sheet that is listed on the parts list! Same and no Matrix!

Tech Sheet # 9757662

 

[JayBoy]

Hello fellow members. Thanks to your help, I replaced the touch pad, and the oven is fixed now. However, the right rear burner is still temperamental. It starts fine, but turns off after a while.

 

[Dan O.]

the right rear burner is still temperamental. It starts fine, but turns off after a while.

Possible causes are a malfunctioning switch, malfunctioning element or a loose wiring connection between them. Intermittent problems are difficult to trace. They really need to be checked when the problem is actually occurring.

You can read about surface element and their controls at this link:

LINK > The Appliance Clinic: Electric Range/Oven/Cooktop repair help


Dan O.

 

[JayBoy]

Possible causes are a malfunctioning switch, malfunctioning element or a loose wiring connection between them. Intermittent problems are difficult to trace. They really need to be checked when the problem is actually occurring.

Thank you for your advice. Should buying a full assembly solve it?

 

[Dan O.]

Should buying a full assembly solve it?

What "full assembly" are you referring to?? Do you mean every part mentioned? If so, that should pretty much fix whatever the problem actually is, yes.

.

 

[JayBoy]

Thank you for your advice. Should buying a full assembly solve it?

What "full assembly" are you referring to?? Do you mean every part mentioned? If so, that should pretty much fix whatever the problem actually is, yes.

.

yes, if I can find it: new burner + the "harness" (wiring with something on them). Some of those parts are "discontinued" one moment, then I find them somewhere later. I guess checking the coil is simple enough, and I saw a video advising sauldering a broken (burnt out) coil. Is that a wise option IF the coil fails the test?

 

[Dan O.]

The wiring harness is likely the hardest to source and would rarely be justified in replacing. If one or two of its terminal was damaged just those affected terminal could be replaced.

I saw a video advising [soldering] a broken (burnt out) coil. Is that a wise option IF the coil fails the test?

No. If the element coil has burned out, the element needs to be replaced. Normal solder would just melt at the temperatures it gets (ie. red hot).

The switch however is more likely to cause intermittent problems than any of the other components mentioned.

JMO

Dan O.