- Model Number
- KSRS25ILWH02
- Brand
- KitchenAid
- Age
- 6-10 years
I have a Kitchenaid KSRS25ILWH02 side by side fridge.
About three months ago I came back from 2 weeks' vacation and everything in the fridge was frozen.
We opened up the fridge door for an hour, then everything seemed to be ok.
About a month later there was water on the floor.
I could see that there was ice blocking the drain at the bottom of the freezer and it had started to
fill up with water and ice until it spilled out and was noticed.
We cleaned the drain out and thought we had cleared all the ice. (May have may have not, possibly was
still jammed in the tube).
3 weeks ago there was ice in the bottom again. We just cleared it out quickly and continued on.
3 days ago my wife complained that the ice maker was not working as there was no more ice being
dispensed.
At that time I decided to deal with the unit.
I turned off the fridge with the control panel so that it would not run but still have lights ect on
for me.
I opened up the freezer door, took the evaporator panel off, removed all the ice that I could, then
aimed a fan inside to complete the defrost process.
At the end I poured hot water down the drain pipe to melt the remaining ice in there and confirmed
proper drainage to the pan.
The ice appeared to only be at the bottomish of the freezer although I had to defrost for a while
before I could get the evaporator panel off.
I then thought everything was good.
I put everything back together and turned the fridge on.
The compressor ran for many hours. The freezer got very cold but the fridge portion did not seem to get
cold.
I then looked further and found that the vent/louver mechanism at the top of the wall between the
freezer and the fridge had ice in there and was probably frozen not allowing it to move.
I removed the unit and defrosted it with a hair dryer making sure I did not overheat and melt anything.
I then reinstalled the unit.
After restarting, the freezer did not get cold anymore.
I could hear the compressor clicking on for 10 seconds then off for a while then back on. There was
constant power to the compressor relay while this was happening.
I checked the windings on the compressor motor and they were good.
I then examined and took apart the Compressor starter relay and found that the composite metal disk
that was in between the start winding contact and the run winding contact had shattered and was now no
good. (Just like said on the internet that when you shake it you should not hear rattling).
I replaced the starter relay and the overload and the compressor now works like a champ.
I plugged the fridge back in and the freezer started cooling.
I did notice that the vent/louver closed between the fridge and the freezer as the freezer had not
reached temperature yet?
The control panel showed -15 C and 0C for setpoints.
I waited and eventually the freezer got all the way down to -25C but the vent/louver did not open up to
cool the fridge portion.
I took the vent/louver mechanism out and found that part of the plastic louver where the lobed cam of
the motor pushes against had snapped. I suppose it happened when the vent was possibly frozen.
I am going to go get that part today and replace it.
I also confirmed that the RTDs (thermosisters) were working correctly. Both had the same ohm value of
3628k at the same temperature (around 20C) and resistance went down as I put them under the hot water
tap, and up in the cold.
During this time, the keypad for the cooling control started to act up. (This is my current main question).
The system at one point started to cycle between Celsius and Fahrenheit and beeping as if I was
pressing the button repeatedly. It returned to normal after about 30 seconds.
The display changed as I would expect back and forth from Celsius and Fahrenheit.
Later I tried changing the temperature values and was unable to. In fact all the buttons do not work on
the front control panel. Even the on off. Lights and display are good.
I disassembled the control board cover ect, had a look around for loose connectors, burnt areas ect,
but could not find any issue.
If I press buttons repeatedly I was once able to change the fridge value to 2C where I want it to be.
What do you think might be wrong with my display panel. Do I have an issue with my control board? Could
it cause issues with the cooling control?
I am ok if I do not have control on the front panel as it appears to be at the setpoints that I want currently.
It sounds to me like I have only one loose intermittent connection from the control board to a common power leg perhaps to the switches but I am not sure. I tried to check the connectivity on the board
itself but since it appears to have been sprayed with a coating, I cannot get a good reading with my
meter without scraping off the protective layer.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Mark
About three months ago I came back from 2 weeks' vacation and everything in the fridge was frozen.
We opened up the fridge door for an hour, then everything seemed to be ok.
About a month later there was water on the floor.
I could see that there was ice blocking the drain at the bottom of the freezer and it had started to
fill up with water and ice until it spilled out and was noticed.
We cleaned the drain out and thought we had cleared all the ice. (May have may have not, possibly was
still jammed in the tube).
3 weeks ago there was ice in the bottom again. We just cleared it out quickly and continued on.
3 days ago my wife complained that the ice maker was not working as there was no more ice being
dispensed.
At that time I decided to deal with the unit.
I turned off the fridge with the control panel so that it would not run but still have lights ect on
for me.
I opened up the freezer door, took the evaporator panel off, removed all the ice that I could, then
aimed a fan inside to complete the defrost process.
At the end I poured hot water down the drain pipe to melt the remaining ice in there and confirmed
proper drainage to the pan.
The ice appeared to only be at the bottomish of the freezer although I had to defrost for a while
before I could get the evaporator panel off.
I then thought everything was good.
I put everything back together and turned the fridge on.
The compressor ran for many hours. The freezer got very cold but the fridge portion did not seem to get
cold.
I then looked further and found that the vent/louver mechanism at the top of the wall between the
freezer and the fridge had ice in there and was probably frozen not allowing it to move.
I removed the unit and defrosted it with a hair dryer making sure I did not overheat and melt anything.
I then reinstalled the unit.
After restarting, the freezer did not get cold anymore.
I could hear the compressor clicking on for 10 seconds then off for a while then back on. There was
constant power to the compressor relay while this was happening.
I checked the windings on the compressor motor and they were good.
I then examined and took apart the Compressor starter relay and found that the composite metal disk
that was in between the start winding contact and the run winding contact had shattered and was now no
good. (Just like said on the internet that when you shake it you should not hear rattling).
I replaced the starter relay and the overload and the compressor now works like a champ.
I plugged the fridge back in and the freezer started cooling.
I did notice that the vent/louver closed between the fridge and the freezer as the freezer had not
reached temperature yet?
The control panel showed -15 C and 0C for setpoints.
I waited and eventually the freezer got all the way down to -25C but the vent/louver did not open up to
cool the fridge portion.
I took the vent/louver mechanism out and found that part of the plastic louver where the lobed cam of
the motor pushes against had snapped. I suppose it happened when the vent was possibly frozen.
I am going to go get that part today and replace it.
I also confirmed that the RTDs (thermosisters) were working correctly. Both had the same ohm value of
3628k at the same temperature (around 20C) and resistance went down as I put them under the hot water
tap, and up in the cold.
During this time, the keypad for the cooling control started to act up. (This is my current main question).
The system at one point started to cycle between Celsius and Fahrenheit and beeping as if I was
pressing the button repeatedly. It returned to normal after about 30 seconds.
The display changed as I would expect back and forth from Celsius and Fahrenheit.
Later I tried changing the temperature values and was unable to. In fact all the buttons do not work on
the front control panel. Even the on off. Lights and display are good.
I disassembled the control board cover ect, had a look around for loose connectors, burnt areas ect,
but could not find any issue.
If I press buttons repeatedly I was once able to change the fridge value to 2C where I want it to be.
What do you think might be wrong with my display panel. Do I have an issue with my control board? Could
it cause issues with the cooling control?
I am ok if I do not have control on the front panel as it appears to be at the setpoints that I want currently.
It sounds to me like I have only one loose intermittent connection from the control board to a common power leg perhaps to the switches but I am not sure. I tried to check the connectivity on the board
itself but since it appears to have been sprayed with a coating, I cannot get a good reading with my
meter without scraping off the protective layer.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Mark
