Kitchenaid Fridge not cooling properly on fridge side

mgreenb561

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Boynton Beach FL
Model
ksrb25fhss01
Brand
KitchenAid
Fridge threw a breaker Friday nite. Reset and thought was OK (fans and light) Realized next day when everything melted in freezer that compressor was not on.

Tested impedence on compressor, and got nearly 0 on all terminals. Short story - Replaced starter kit with another; didn't work, but found a broken wire (apparent mouse). Fixed and it started; It should be good, but......

Freezer seems to work ok but fridge doesn't seem to get cold enough. Cleaned the coils weren't too bad.

Observations and possible symptoms:
Compressor gets very hot very quickly
Compressor runs quietly; there are no clicks or humming.
The low pressure line likewise is pretty hot, but the high pressure line is not cold as I would have expected (at the compressor) However, the coils in back of freezer have iced
Freezer cold setting was on 5 (highest) but I lowered it to 3. It made some ice (on 5) but it is wet at 3 (too soon to tell) Fridge side remains at 5
Vent on top of fridge was blowing cold; nothing is blocked. When I open freezer door, the airflow really doesn't change, but seems colder? coils are clean.
About an hour ago, that top vent stopped blowing, but it started again. As I mentioned compressor is very quiet, and probably just cycled off.



At 11 years old, it is probably wise to not replace compressor.
Is the very hot compressor normal? Does the high pressure line being not cold and icing of coils behind freezer indicate it needs more freon, and if so, is there an inline tap I can use so I do that myself?

I can't imagine why the freezer would work and not fridge side, as my understanding is the unit cools the fridge from the freezer side. I thought unit was working fine prior to my little rodent friend eating the wire, so it should work the same now

Any thoughts or direction would be appreciated
 
Last edited:

Jake

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The low side line is the larger of the two, that should be cool. The high side line should be warm/hot.

Is the fan next to the compressor running while the compressor is on and running?

Jake
 

mgreenb561

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I got the low and high sides backwards. The high side is hot and the low side is just slightly cool (a touch above room temp).

When I put the freezer setting to 3, the ice melted. It's back to 5 and now; keeping and making ice. The fridge side is better too, but not great. Still, I have ice on the evaporator coils that I can see on the bottom of freezer.

The fan is definitely working. Its about 16 inches from the compressor, and everything has been vacuumed. There is no ice or even anything that I can touch that feels` cold in that back compartment

My experience with AC suggests I may need more freon, or there is a circulation prob. I know fridges are different. Also I replaced what was already a replacement starter kit with another replacement starter kit. The problem was actually a faulty wire and not he starter kit. It includes an 'overload' circuit. Might I have purchased a faulty part with the overload circuit having something to do with it, or am I just thinking too much?
 

Jake

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Yes, it sounds like a sealed system issue either a freon leak or your compressor is going bad.

At 11 years old, its best to just get a new refrigerator.

Jake
 

mgreenb561

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Messages
7
Location
Boynton Beach FL
Thanks. Not what I want to hear, but.....

I've been reading other threads and seeing mention of defrost heater and thermostat. Is that a possibility, or am I just grabbing at straws?
 

Jake

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Does the evaporator coil behind the back panel in the freezer have a thin layer of frost on ALL the coils? and no massive frost build-up?

Jake
 

mgreenb561

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Messages
7
Location
Boynton Beach FL
Took cover off to look at coils and found the compressor and fans were not on. Unplugged and replugged and everything started ok. I'll check back this afternoon.

You guys have the 'storm of the century' I've just got one little cloud over my fridge.
 

Jake

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Ok, keep us posted.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, then that elimates the compressor since the entire evaporator coil has frost on it, but no massive frost.

Ok, You have the adaptive defrost control board.

The way I test the defrost board is process of elimination, by doing a ohm test for continuity first on the defrost thermostat and defrost heater, if those both check good, then the defrost board would be the bad part.

The defrost board should only make the refrigerator stay off about 20-30 minutes, then cycle it on, if its taking alot longer then that, then yes change the defrost board as well.

You should have a tech. data sheet tucked-in behind your front bottom kickplate grille that will have instructions on how to force it into defrost. Try to force it into defrost first and then if it goes into defrost and your defrost heater thats located underneath your evaporator coils comes on, then we know the problem is the defrost board.

Here's the defrost board for this model:
Manufacturer part number 4388932 is RepairClinic item number 844415
4388932

Jake
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