- Model Number
- KDTE104ESS0
- Brand
- KitchenAid
- Age
- 1-5 years
I think the subject line says it all. I am stumped.
I ran the diagnostic on my KDTE104ESS0. It shot back a 6-4 code which suggests a bad float switch or inlet valve. right?
I replaced both the inlet valve and float switch. Confirmed water is getting to the inlet valve. And confirmed that there are no obstructions in the float, the drain, and the drain line.
Still no luck.
I checked the voltage to the motor. 120V confirmed.
I checked the voltage to the inlet valve. It maintained a reading at some low voltage around 1 or 3v or something like that. Never received a 120v signal.
I then replaced the control board. Still no luck. Still not getting 120v reading at inlet valve.
When I try to run a cycle, the unit humms and then kind of makes a slight grinding noise but NO water gets in (as you would expect if the inlet isn't getting the signal).
Please help. I'm about to throw this thing out the window but I don't think I will get much satisfaction in that as I live in a 1 story house.
I ran the diagnostic on my KDTE104ESS0. It shot back a 6-4 code which suggests a bad float switch or inlet valve. right?
I replaced both the inlet valve and float switch. Confirmed water is getting to the inlet valve. And confirmed that there are no obstructions in the float, the drain, and the drain line.
Still no luck.
I checked the voltage to the motor. 120V confirmed.
I checked the voltage to the inlet valve. It maintained a reading at some low voltage around 1 or 3v or something like that. Never received a 120v signal.
I then replaced the control board. Still no luck. Still not getting 120v reading at inlet valve.
When I try to run a cycle, the unit humms and then kind of makes a slight grinding noise but NO water gets in (as you would expect if the inlet isn't getting the signal).
Please help. I'm about to throw this thing out the window but I don't think I will get much satisfaction in that as I live in a 1 story house.