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Kitchenaid KDTE104ESS0 6-4 error code. Inlet valve not getting 120v, but I've replaced Inlet valve, Float switch, & control board. Still not working


Premium Member
Aug 19, 2020
Model Number
1-5 years
I think the subject line says it all. I am stumped.
I ran the diagnostic on my KDTE104ESS0. It shot back a 6-4 code which suggests a bad float switch or inlet valve. right?
I replaced both the inlet valve and float switch. Confirmed water is getting to the inlet valve. And confirmed that there are no obstructions in the float, the drain, and the drain line.
Still no luck.
I checked the voltage to the motor. 120V confirmed.
I checked the voltage to the inlet valve. It maintained a reading at some low voltage around 1 or 3v or something like that. Never received a 120v signal.
I then replaced the control board. Still no luck. Still not getting 120v reading at inlet valve.
When I try to run a cycle, the unit humms and then kind of makes a slight grinding noise but NO water gets in (as you would expect if the inlet isn't getting the signal).
Please help. I'm about to throw this thing out the window but I don't think I will get much satisfaction in that as I live in a 1 story house.

Anytime you replace a part on these dishwashers you always have to run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that now, and report back.:)

I have run the diagnostic cycle several times throughout the process. Each time i receive the 6-4 error code as I stated before.
Where is the humming noise coming from? You will need to pinpoint which parts is humming, that's very important to know.

First of all, thanks for your help.
Of course when I plugged it in this time there was no initial hum.....because in the year 2020 why would it be consistent? After about 15 to 20 seconds, it did make the grinding noise that I referred to which led me to the motor pump. The grinding was coming from it. I could identify it both by sound and touch. I'm not sure if "grinding noise" is the best description, but it is definitely loud. Maybe a rattle. Does that tell us anything?
When you first start any dishwasher, on some models, the drain pump will come on first to drain any water out that may be in the very bottom of the tub, then after that--->It will start filling with water from the water inlet valve, then the wash motor comes on and you hear water splashing in the tub.

If its not filling with water and your float switch is good, then I always take the electrical connector off the water inlet valve and put my meter probes in it and see if I get a CONSTANT 120 volts for about 60-120 seconds.

With the bottom access panel removed and a flashlight shining down there I can put my hand on all the parts to see which is grinding/rattling.

Then your control board is bad plain and simple.

Check your owners manual warranty some models have a 5 yr. warranty on the control board.

Here's the control board for your model:
W10854225 Cntrl-Elec

I've already replaced the control board with a new one. That was the last straw before going to this thread.
Where did you get it at? It's possibly a defective new control board. Because that's the only part that sends 120 volts to the water inlet valve, if the float switch is good.

Its not uncommon for new parts to come bad at times.:)

Contact the place where you got it and have them send you another new control board.

Thanks Robert, that is quite possible, but I have not run into the tiny wires breaking in my area on these KitchenAid Dishwashers.

Now I have found broken tiny wires on the Maytag User Interface on a couple of the high end Maytag Washers.

@Mugshot what did you find out it was?

Currently having the exact same problem just replaced valve and switch too, I really didn’t want to have to buy the freaking control board
Check the wires to the water inlet valve and float switch like @Robert lyman mentioned.

If those wires are good, then all it can be is the control board.
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