FIXED KitchenAid KDTE204ESS2 9-1 - Replaced Diverter, Error and Problems Persist

[bear_claw]

Model Number

KDTE204ESS2

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

Hello all!

Problem:
KitchenAid KDTE204ESS2 not properly cleaning dishes for several months (but occasionally would). Soap being left in tray or on bottom of dishwasher after full cycle. Despite that, no error code for months.
Recently (December 2022) received error 9-1, which my understanding was the diverter.

Actions Performed: (December 2022)
Replaced diverter and cleaned green corrosion around the wire connectors. Took the terminal apart, scrubbed with wire brush and spliced new wire ends.
New diverter was clicking loudly, I believe due to misalignment of diverter disc. After reinstalling, it no longer clicks. It does appear the disc is rotating, but I may need to specifically check that.

Continued Problem:
Dishwasher still leaving soap in tray and dishes not clean. Still receiving error code 9-1. I've tried opening the door a few times during cycle and I have yet to notice the lower washer arm spraying. I have checked for debris and it spins freely when manually turned. I can hear spraying happening, assuming from only the top sprayer.

Notes:
It seems to fill and drain perfectly fine, as far as I can tell.

Questions:
1. Is there a chance the new diverter broke because I likely installed the divert disc incorrectly?
2. If there are more error codes - is there a way to cycle between them during diagnostic mode?
3. Should I try brand new wiring terminals? If so, I can't seem to find this part for purchase.
4. What will my neighbors think if I take a baseball bat to it in my front yard?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Jake]

Before I can answer those questions, I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below, have you done every step on page 9, error 9-1--->Diverter Can't find position?

Actually question 3, they don't sell those terminals separately, only with a new wire harness, but that seems overkill just for 2 wire terminals, you can probably get those at any hardware or electronic store.

Here's your Wire harness: Harns-Wire W11027902

Also you can see the timing chart in your tech data sheet on Page 3 and it tells you when the diverter should activate the lower(LOW) spray arm and upper(UPR) spray arm.

Service Diagnostics Cycle Notes:
3) Diverter will be on continuously in interval 14. In all other diverter intervals, diverter will be on only until it reaches the intended position for that interval.

Here's the diverter motor for your model:
W10537869 Motor

 

[bear_claw]

Thanks for the info Jake! I’ll do some investigating today and get back with you shortly. Appreciate it!

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good, yes let us know how it goes.

 

[bear_claw]

Alrighty here’s where I’m at so far:
1. Corroded or loose connection in diverter sensor/ motor circuit, or open/shorted sensor/motor.
Replaced diverter motor and fully cleaned the corroded terminal.
2. Mechanical binding of diverter shaft disc.
No Binding (anymore). Assuming it is functioning as intended with it being new.
3. Open fuse on control to diverter motor.
Fuse service check passed on both
I tested the F8 and F9 fuses (Page 4) and both passed. I’m completely new to this, so I wasn’t sure if I needed to test other loads/fuses, or how to interpret the “Diverter Valve” diagram on page 5. I was also lost on how to interpret the ‘Service Diagnostic Cycle’ chart.
4. Diverter Motor Drive circuit on the control.
I’m not sure what this is referring to either.

Notes:
1. Until just now, I still hadn’t seen the lower arm turning (by checking it’s positing pre and post diagnostic) but today on a diagnostic test, I confirmed the lower arm was spinning.
2. Within the first 5 minutes of the diagnostic, the circulation pump was crackling/popping and I noticed it is leaking water. It seems to not make this noise whenever it’s spraying. I hadn’t noticed this noise before but I may have just been ignoring it. I’ve included a video I took (with sound) below.



I want to learn and understand my appliances, but if you think I’m in over my head please let me know ha. Thanks!

 

[Jake]

Per your video, your wash motor sounds like its bad, it should not be clicking like that, it should be running.

This is what I mention to other people below when it fills but the wash motor won't run:

Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.

I'd first check to see if your getting 120 volts to the wash motor when it should be in the wash cycle. His Kenmore 665 is made by KitchenAid, and uses the exact same wash motor yours does.

Take the wire connector off the wash motor and use your multimeter to see if yours is getting 120 volts when it should be washing, if so and it's not running order the wash motor below.

Here's the wash motor for your model:
Pump and Motor Assembly W11032770


Here's the video to replace it: Dishwasher Circulation Pump Replacement Video

Let us know what you find.

 

[bear_claw]

Just a clarification for any future readers dealing with this issue - the pump runs (and sprays) a good portion of the time, but stops running for expended periods of time. During these extended times between running, it makes the popping/grinding noises in the prior video.
Also, I ran a diagnostic while testing the voltage of the circ pump and I no longer received the 9-1 error code (no error codes actually).

Luckily I passed the voltage test, so I'll be ordering the new pump! Will update you once it's installed. Thank for the continued help Jake!

 

[Jake]

Yes, the new wash motor pump assembly should fix it.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[bear_claw]

Good news! I replaced the circulation motor and all seems to be working great! I haven’t seen this clean of dishes in well over a year.

After I replaced the diverter, the new one was also leaking, so I also replaced the grommet for the diverter and that fixed that issue as well.

The 9-1 code is still showing up. The diverter is still clicking but it’s not continual and not loud like before. I read that’s normal? Besides that, everything seems to be running fine! Unless you have any concerns, I think I’d call this one done.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Jake]

Excellent, glad to hear the new wash(circulation) motor fixed it.

After I replaced the diverter, the new one was also leaking, so I also replaced the grommet for the diverter and that fixed that issue as well.

Glad to hear that too!

The 9-1 code is still showing up.

In your tech data sheet I posted in post #2 above, Page 3--->Service Diagnostics Cycle Notes--->NOTE 4--->Press HI TEMP key in this interval to clear customer error history.

See the cycle chart on that same page 3--->INTERVAL 21 Refers to NOTE 4 that's where you Press HI TEMP key in this interval to clear customer error history.

The diverter is still clicking but it’s not continual and not loud like before. I read that’s normal?

Yes, that should be fine.

Thanks for the update!