jpzurilgen
Premium Member
- Model Number
- KDTM354DSS4
- Brand
- KitchenAid
- Age
- 6-10 years
So, buckle up for this one...it's a head-scratcher! I have a KitchenAid KDTM354DSS4 that we noticed wasn't drying the dishes like it used to. Shortly after that, we noticed that the dishes just weren't getting as clean as they once did. We initially thought there might be some scaling issues or white mold, etc. We ran CLR and also some recommended in-wash cleaners, which initially seemed to help with the cleaning issue...but not the drying issue. Note: all of this began at the end of last year, sometime during the holiday season. When I took a deeper look into the issue, I discovered that the water was never heating up in the dishwasher. Upper and lower sprayers were spraying, pump is working, water is filling to an accept level (covering the heating element), etc. So, I thought the heating element might be bad.
I removed the heating element from the machine--someone stated that you might get some false positives for current if the element remained in the machine--and tested for both continuity and resistance. The element tested at 13 ohms resistance at room temperature, which seems to be in the range of good. So, the element doesn't appear to be an issue.
I next progressed to the hi-limit/thermostat switch/fuse (I'm not sure what to call it because it seems everyone refers to this part differently; I'm specifically referring to the thermal fuse that sits underneath the sump, touching the metal above. If the dishwasher gets too hot, this switch internally flexes, thereby turning the heating circuit off to protect the machine). I pulled the part out of the machine and tested for continuity. Glorious beeping was heard on my multimeter. So, at room temp, the switch is closed (passing electricity to the heating element). I took a hot plate, turned it on medium-high, and sat the thermal switch on it. I heard the switch click....immediately tested for continuity....and as expected, there was no continuity/no beeping. Ok, so the switch is good. I put it back into the machine.
Now, at this point, according to Jake (technician on this site, in another discussion), if the element and the thermal switch all check out, then the only thing left is the control board. So, I pulled the door off of the machine to inspect the control board. And, what do ya know?? The main plug into the control board is charred, with the wires coming blackened as well. NOTE: I guess I should state for the record here that the control panel, lights, function of the machine, etc was all still working. Machine receiving power, diagnostic cycles revealing NO error codes, etc. Everything "seemed" to be working...just wasn't cleaning very good, and wet dishes at the end of the cycle. Upon seeing the control board state of affairs, I immediately ordered a replacement. Very optimistic that things are going to be working very soon!
HOWEVER, that is not the case. Sadly, we received our new control board yesterday. According to this forum, I needed to lengthen the wires to get everything to reach the electrical contacts on the new control board. I lengthened each wire with about 3 1/2 inches of 14-gauge wire, putting female spade connectors on the ends. The original plug housing was too charred and nasty to attempt to reuse, so I took Jake's advice and wiring up the additional length and female spade connectors as such. Everything fit, everything fired up....everyone was hopeful! After turning the power back on, I immediately started a diagnostic cycle. I had read that if you swap out any components that you need to run this cycle to get the machines to identify that the new component is there, including a new control board. So, I started the diagnostic cycle and let the machine do its thing.
I came back about 30 minutes later, and all lights were off on the machine. The Cancel button wasn't flashing--no error codes, I assume--and the machine was just completely still. So, I decided to run a test cycle with all of the highest heat settings--Normal wash, ProDry, Hi-Temp Wash, Sani-Rinse, etc. Anything to get that water nice and hot! I stood there as I heard the motor begin to whir, and I could hear water entering the machine and filling up. At that point, I walked away for a good 10 minutes or so.
Upon returning, I opened the door and was met with a face-full of COLD water. Upper and lower sprayers are spraying, water seemed to be filled up to an acceptable level in the bottom of the machine....BUT THE DAMN WATER IS COLD.
I'm honestly stumped at this point. I have zero idea where to go from here. Someone mentioned checking for broken wires, which honestly, I have not done yet because that seems the least likely cause for this issue. But, I will test ALL wires in this machine tonight. Beyond that, I'm stuck with no direction to go.
I'm not aware of any other component in this dishwasher that would cause the heating circuit to not turn on at all. Am I missing something? Was I supposed to run some different reset/reboot cycle to get the new control board to recognize the heating circuit (heating element and hi-temp switch)????
Help. Please.
J.P.
I removed the heating element from the machine--someone stated that you might get some false positives for current if the element remained in the machine--and tested for both continuity and resistance. The element tested at 13 ohms resistance at room temperature, which seems to be in the range of good. So, the element doesn't appear to be an issue.
I next progressed to the hi-limit/thermostat switch/fuse (I'm not sure what to call it because it seems everyone refers to this part differently; I'm specifically referring to the thermal fuse that sits underneath the sump, touching the metal above. If the dishwasher gets too hot, this switch internally flexes, thereby turning the heating circuit off to protect the machine). I pulled the part out of the machine and tested for continuity. Glorious beeping was heard on my multimeter. So, at room temp, the switch is closed (passing electricity to the heating element). I took a hot plate, turned it on medium-high, and sat the thermal switch on it. I heard the switch click....immediately tested for continuity....and as expected, there was no continuity/no beeping. Ok, so the switch is good. I put it back into the machine.
Now, at this point, according to Jake (technician on this site, in another discussion), if the element and the thermal switch all check out, then the only thing left is the control board. So, I pulled the door off of the machine to inspect the control board. And, what do ya know?? The main plug into the control board is charred, with the wires coming blackened as well. NOTE: I guess I should state for the record here that the control panel, lights, function of the machine, etc was all still working. Machine receiving power, diagnostic cycles revealing NO error codes, etc. Everything "seemed" to be working...just wasn't cleaning very good, and wet dishes at the end of the cycle. Upon seeing the control board state of affairs, I immediately ordered a replacement. Very optimistic that things are going to be working very soon!
HOWEVER, that is not the case. Sadly, we received our new control board yesterday. According to this forum, I needed to lengthen the wires to get everything to reach the electrical contacts on the new control board. I lengthened each wire with about 3 1/2 inches of 14-gauge wire, putting female spade connectors on the ends. The original plug housing was too charred and nasty to attempt to reuse, so I took Jake's advice and wiring up the additional length and female spade connectors as such. Everything fit, everything fired up....everyone was hopeful! After turning the power back on, I immediately started a diagnostic cycle. I had read that if you swap out any components that you need to run this cycle to get the machines to identify that the new component is there, including a new control board. So, I started the diagnostic cycle and let the machine do its thing.
I came back about 30 minutes later, and all lights were off on the machine. The Cancel button wasn't flashing--no error codes, I assume--and the machine was just completely still. So, I decided to run a test cycle with all of the highest heat settings--Normal wash, ProDry, Hi-Temp Wash, Sani-Rinse, etc. Anything to get that water nice and hot! I stood there as I heard the motor begin to whir, and I could hear water entering the machine and filling up. At that point, I walked away for a good 10 minutes or so.
Upon returning, I opened the door and was met with a face-full of COLD water. Upper and lower sprayers are spraying, water seemed to be filled up to an acceptable level in the bottom of the machine....BUT THE DAMN WATER IS COLD.
I'm honestly stumped at this point. I have zero idea where to go from here. Someone mentioned checking for broken wires, which honestly, I have not done yet because that seems the least likely cause for this issue. But, I will test ALL wires in this machine tonight. Beyond that, I'm stuck with no direction to go.
I'm not aware of any other component in this dishwasher that would cause the heating circuit to not turn on at all. Am I missing something? Was I supposed to run some different reset/reboot cycle to get the new control board to recognize the heating circuit (heating element and hi-temp switch)????
Help. Please.
J.P.
