FIXED KitchenAid KRMF706EBS01 clicking, no interior lights and not cooling

[TomRue]

Model Number

KRMF706EBS01

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

Hello - our fridge intermittently seems to stop cooling and when it does, there is a clicking sound coming from the lower rear of the fridge and no interior lights, but the control panel on the front door seems to function normally.
After I reset the circuit breaker (sometimes it takes several attempts), the slower clicking is replaced by fast clicking and then I can hear the compressor start up. Occasionally, the compressor starts to wind up, but then fails to start fully and the clicking begins again.
It seems to be happening more frequently and usually overnight.
Does this sound like a control board issue or is there something else we should try to replace first?

Thank you!

 

[Jake]

Hi, Disconnect the Pantry UI and see if everything starts working properly again. If so, check your wire harness first to see if you notice a short in it, if no short then the problem is the Pantry UI control board.

Here's the wire harness to it:

Whirlpool W11170612 Harns-Wire (AP6284547) - AppliancePartsPros.com

HARNS-WIRE W11170612 / AP6284547 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Here's the Pantry UI control board for your model:

Whirlpool WPW10677118 Cntrl-Elec-Blk (AP6023739) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Color: Black, WPW10677118 / AP6023739 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

This video gives you the general idea of how to remove it:

If disconnecting the Pantry UI does not resolve it, some people have reported the LED light board(aka Aurora board) is shorting out and causing this problem as well.

Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and unplug the refrigerator, then remove the cover over the circuit boards on the exterior back wall of the refrigerator, then disconnect all the wire connections to the Aurora board and plug the refrigerator back in and see if that resolves this issue, if so you will need a new Aurora board to fix this problem. If it does not resolve the issue you will need a new main control board to fix this problem.

Here's the LED light board(aka Aurora board) for your model:
W10804160 Cntrl-Elec


Here's the main control board for your model:
WPW10675033


Let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[TomRue]

Thank you, Jake - Really appreciate the guidance. We’ll let you know what we find.

 

[Jake]

Ok Tom, sounds good.

 

[TomRue]

It’s out again this morning - clicking away, but not starting and no lights in the fridge. The clicking is coming from the solenoid Part #: W11429989. There’s no ability to get ice/water but the control panel in the door is lit. First, I tried to disconnect the Pantry IU, but there was no change (the fridge did not start).

Since the door control panel works, I put it in diagnostic mode and attempted some tests:
Test 1: flashed amber “order filter”, then red “replace filter” but no result number (01, 02, 03). Same result for Test 2. Tests 3-5: No response when cycling thru options 01-04 (makes sense because compressor and fans are not running).

Test 8: passed. Test 9: passed. Tests 11-18: passed/normal. I skipped a few and went to test 32 which passed (displayed 01).

My wife has observed that this seems to happen after we turn “Max Ice” on - which we did last night. So I tried some ice maker tests. Test 56 returned no response (not even an “E0” for no errors). Test 57 (harvest) flashed a “1” for digit 1, then flashed “20”, then flashed “02”.

I moved ahead to test 63 (pantry IU indicators): none of the pantry IU lights came on.
Finally, I attempted the steps to disconnect the Aurora board and when I plugged it back in, I could hear faster clicking in the solenoid, some clicking in the control board but then the fridge just went back to the steady slow click from the solenoid.
Tried to reset the break several times, but can’t get it to restart again.

 

[TomRue]

Prolog: I tried to reset the breaker another time and it started. Went back to diagnostic mode and it completed Tests 1&2 normally. Also checked ice maker. Displayed an E0 (no errors. Also successfully completed a harvest and re-fill. Is this leaning toward a failure of the control board? Does the connection between these failures happening after turning on “Max Ice” help to confirm a control board problem?

 

[Jake]

Its the main control board that is bad and causing this problem, that's the case when you unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in again, thus a hard reset and everything starts working fine again, you see what I mean?

 

[Jake]

Does the connection between these failures happening after turning on “Max Ice” help to confirm a control board problem?

Yes, exactly.

 

[TomRue]

Yes, exactly.

Thanks Jake - we’ve got a new control board ordered. Hope it solves the problem.

 

[Jake]

Ok Tom, yes the new control board should fix it.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[TomRue]

Replaced the main control board last night and the unit seems to be functioning properly so far. Just turned on Max Ice, so we’ll monitor for a few days to see if it’s stable and report back.

Thanks again!
Tom

 

[Jake]

Ok Tom, sounds good.

Thanks for the update!

 

[TomRue]

Been monitoring the fridge and running it thru several max ice cycles, and everything seems to be running normally. Looks like the control board fixed it.

Thanks again for all your help and advice - GREATLY appreciated!

 

[Jake]

Sounds good Tom.