FIXED KitchenAid KRMF706ESS01 occasionally stops cooling

[user21]

Model Number

KRMF706ESS01

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

1-5 years

We have a 2 year old KitchenAid KRMF706ESS01.

Every few of days the fridge will stop cooling. After unplugging it, it will recover and seem to be humming along.

Below are the symptoms after it fails:

Cycles through this sequence:
1. Refrigerator valve clicks every second for a couple of minutes and stops
2. 2 seconds of rapid clicks and stops
3. Control board relay clicks and sometimes turns on the fan by the compressor for a about a second
4. Starts over

Other symptoms:

Compressor not running
Compressor fan not running
Light inside fridge do not turn on
Light on front panel working
Panel otherwise responsive
Water is not dispensing

I would really appreciate any help diagnosing the problem!

Thanks!

 

[rickgburton]

On the power supply board check for a constant 120 VAC P1-1 to P1-2 and P1-3 to P1-4. Check for a constant 12 .6 VDC across P2-1 to P2-5 and P2-2 to P2-6 and P2-3 to P2-7.

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[user21]

Thank you! I'll try that and report back when it happens next time. Since it doesn't happen very often, is there anything else I can look for depending on what I find?

 

[rickgburton]

The power supply board supplies the power for the AC loads and the DC loads. It's always best to start at the beginning.

 

[user21]

Seems reasonable! Below are the requested readings.

Power board:
P1:
1 2 3 4
1-2: 120VAC
3-4: 120VAC

P2:
X 7 6 5
4 3 2 1

5-1: 12.6V
6-2: 12.6V
7-3: 12.6V
7-4: 12.6V

Main board:
P1:
1 2 3 4

1-2: 120VAC

 

[user21]

Also, would you happen to know if there is a service manual available from KitchenAid? It would be tremendously helpful to understand the wiring diagram! Thanks

 

[rickgburton]

If those voltage measurements were taken when the machine stopped cooling and everything turned off, here's the part you need:
Refrigerator Control Board WPW10675033


The tech sheet has the wiring diagram and the service manual will have the same thing. It won't teach you how to read a schematic or diagram. What part is hanging you up? Maybe this will help:

 

[user21]

Sorry, I should have more clear! I can't seem to find any documentation such as a service manual for this model, which makes this troubleshooting very difficult. I was hoping you may know where I can find it!

Yes, the measurements were taken when the fridge failed. Thank you for suggesting the replacement part. Based in your recommendation, are you thinking that the power board is okay, and there may be something wrong with the main control board?

I was hoping to isolate some of the other sensors/components before replacing the main board. It seems like it's trying to switch into a mode, but is not getting the correct feedback.

Would you happen to know what the purpose of the valve that it's trying to energize every second and what the feedback mechanism for that circuit?

 

[rickgburton]

Correct, The power board is supplying the main board with the correct AC and DC voltages so the problem is with the main board. The compressor, condensor fan motor, display panel, and lights don't work when this happens but they all work after unplugging the machine and then restoring power. So unless you think all those components failed and became intermittent at the same time you can assume they are all good. The thermistors/Sensors are variable resistors that supply information to the main board. They don't control any of the components. Your tech sheet is located under one of the door hinge covers. That will have your wiring schematic and diagram.

 

[user21]

I opened up the door hinges on the top but no luck finding the diagram.

You are definitely right, a broken sensor, however, can easily alter the behavior of the control board state machine. Just before ordering a $300 board that I can't return, it would be nice to make sure it was not something else. The board firmware after some time clearly gets itself into some recovery mode where it's waiting for feedback from a sensor and is attempting to energize a small valve by the compressor fan. If I could figure what the valve is, then I may have a clue on what else to check, and assuming I can find a service manual, if there are any diagnostic tests that may help obviate the problem.

As always, appreciate all your help!

 

[rickgburton]

If I could figure what the valve is,

Your machine is a sequential cooling dual evaporator. It uses two separate evaporators and cap tubes. The 3-way valve directs the refrigerant flow to either the freezer evaporator or refrigerator evaporator which ever compartment is calling for cooling. Refrigerant flow is directed through only one evaporator at a time. Thus the word sequential. This is for a different machine but I believe the first five test are the same.

To enter Service Diagnostics: Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds.

Release both buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator.

The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in test 1 of the diagnostics routine.

Each test must be manually advanced. Press SW5 to move to the next test in the sequence. Press SW4 to back up in the sequence to the previous test

Each step is displayed in the two digits of the dispenser user interface display. The step results are displayed in the two digits on dispenser user interface display 2 seconds after the step number is displayed. An amber order filter light will be shown to designate that the step number is being displayed A red replace filter light will be shown to designate that the status of the step is being displayed.

To exit Service Diagnostics Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds, disconnect the product from power or wait 20 minutes. Following the exit of the diagnostic mode, the controls will then resume normal operation.

Service Test - 1: FC Thermistor
The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display flashes results on the Temp display
01 = pass 02 = open 03 = short.

Service Test - 2: RC Thermistor
The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the results on the Temp display
01 = pass 02 = open 03 = short.

Service Test - 4: Compressor/Condenser Fan Motor/ Evaporator Fan
There will be a delay of 3 seconds before start of Sub Step 01. NOTE: Each test is timed and will automatically proceed to the next step. User will not be allowed to exit test. If exit is attempted, an invalid chime will sound. Control the sealed system loads by selecting SW3
01 = initialize dual evaporator valve in home position (4 min.)
02 = close both RC and FC evaporator valves (1 min.)
03 = turn compressor on (1 min.)
04 = keep compressor on. Drive the valve to RC position and turn RC fan on
05 = keep compressor on. Drive the valve to FC position and turn FC fan on

Verify airflow from the evaporator fan.
NOTE: Advance quickly through Service Test 4 to keep from locking in. Once locked in, you cannot exit, and must wait approximately 10 minutes.

Service Test - 5: Compressor Status/Speed
Initial Display 02 = Minimum speed
Depress SW3. Display = 03. Compressor ramps up to maximum speed. When maximum speed is reached, 01 is displayed.
Depress SW3. Display = 04. Speed ramps down from maximum to minimum speed. Display = 02.

 

[user21]

This is great - thank you!

 

[rickgburton]

Anytime! Keep us posted.

 

[Viller]

We have a 2 year old KitchenAid KRMF706ESS01.

Every few of days the fridge will stop cooling. After unplugging it, it will recover and seem to be humming along.

Below are the symptoms after it fails:

Cycles through this sequence:
1. Refrigerator valve clicks every second for a couple of minutes and stops
2. 2 seconds of rapid clicks and stops
3. Control board relay clicks and sometimes turns on the fan by the compressor for a about a second
4. Starts over

Other symptoms:

Compressor not running
Compressor fan not running
Light inside fridge do not turn on
Light on front panel working
Panel otherwise responsive
Water is not dispensing

I would really appreciate any help diagnosing the problem!

Thanks!

I have the exact same fridge and issue you are having. It has been an ongoing issue. I tried to replace the solenoid that clicks. Pretty sure I tried to replace the main board also. I installed a power filter inline and had no more problems for 8 months? Yesterday it messed up. I reached over turned the filter of and back on. Inside lights lit up and the happy chime sounded. all was good.

While I was at work today it messed up again and the family reset it many times and I tried many more once I got home with no luck.

The valve that that is clicking is the solenoid that directs the coolant? When I attempted the test procedures Mr. Rickgburton provided I do not get any number response from the test 1-3 but it does go though the motions with the extended number 4. It locks me out till it finishes. Nothing turns on during the test except when the compressor should run I see a flashing blue light on the board in a plastic case mounted on the side of the compressor.

Any more insight you have gained into this would help. I have a back up fridge in the garage but I need this back running asap.

V/R
~Corey

 

[Viller]

I am hoping we can work together and solve both our problems.

Preformed the same power board voltage test and my numbers are slightly higher then OP's but not alarming so. I do have my wiring diagram and information sheet that has all the test codes for the fridge. I can attempt to copy and scan it at work tomorrow if you really want the schematics it could be useful as it has the pin outs for each connector. Going to rummage in the garage I am almost certain I bought a main board for this fridge when it first started acting strange. Then I bought the solenoid. have only had two hours sleep in the last 48 so my brain is a bit fuzzy at the moment.

Oh, another common failure on this fridge is the touch control on the left slide out drawer. Water can leak in and get on the board / pins under it.

You can easily remove it with a putty knife or a credit card by inserting it on the long side towards the interior of the fridge and popping it up, then use the card in the same place on the side facing out from the fridge.

 

[rickgburton]

... except when the compressor should run I see a flashing blue light on the board in a plastic case mounted on the side of the compressor.

The inverter performs a self diagnostic check at the beginning of each cooling cycle. An LED on the inverter blinks a code to signal a failure.

LED off - No failure detected
LED blinks twice - 3-6 VDC not detected from control board.
LED blinks 3 times - Inverter failure - Replace inverter
LED blinks 4 times - Compressor failure- Replace compressor and inverter

 

[Viller]

Rickgburton,

Thank you for the great information. I will look at it when I get home to see what the failure is. I am sure you was correct in your previous statement of main board failure.

 

[rickgburton]

It's probably the inverter. That's the most common. Keep us posted!

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[Viller]

Just for clarity my fridge is currently in this state

Power on:

The coolant direction valve clicks multiple times
no lights work
the dispenser lights up with power fault indicator "power failure"
I can clear the fault then the dispenser lights up as normal. All buttons are responsive but water/ice will not vend.
a few mins i will hear a chime.

When resetting would work the way I knew "this" power cycle would fix it was, the interior lights would come on.
It currently will not reset with a power cycle any longer


The board mounted to the compressor is blinking a green light twice with a pause in between. As you earlier post noted that is the absence of the 3-6 VDC from the control board.
My data sheet shows that as coming from the control board P8-7 and P8-8 and the schematic shows that as a red and a black wire going to the compressor inverter. Testing the pins on the main board with the cable not connected shows no VDC in the powered up not working state.

I then put the fridge in self diag number 4 waited till sub test 3 when the board would be commanding the compressor on. The pins still had no VDC

So please correct me if i am wrong the 3-6 VDC is the control side of a relay to put the compressor in and out of load as the control board detects the need for cooling.

I did have another main board here and it acts very similar except it will show the warning light that the fridge is is not cold and it will show the replace filter light when the doors are opened. I have not tested the p8 connector pins on it yet as its getting late and I have to be up in 4 hours for work.

Is there any circuit / switch / input failure that you know of that would keep the main board from commanding the compressor on?

Thank you for your help thus far,
~Corey

 

[rickgburton]

Here's the part you need:
Refrigerator Control Board WPW10675033