KitchenAid KRSC503ESS01 Side by Side Refrigerator - evap coil freezing solid on refrigerator side

[JSS22]

Model Number

KRSC503ESS01

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

1-5 years

Hello,

I read the following thread after I had my refrigerator evap coil freeze up and causing temps to rise above 50 degrees:

FIXED - KRSC503ESS01 Kitchenaid side by side - icing on refrigerator side evaporator coil

I also have a one year old KRSC503ESS01 with seemingly the same problem. The freezer side appears fine, the fridge side evap coil was completely iced up--and had probably been so for more than several days. I removed the fridge coil cover and completely thawed the evap coil out. When I...

www.applianceblog.com

This happened after 2 years of trouble free service with the fridge temp set at 33 degrees. A repair tech came out and stated that we needed to let the evap coil defrost fully and from now on set the temp to the recommended setting of 37 degrees or even better 38 degrees, and he set the fan to run on a schedule rather than the adaptive schedule it had previously. Well 2 weeks went by and the evap coil froze again. I then read the above thread, and so far have found the following:

The fan motor functions, the evap thermistor measures 8.1kOhm at 32degF, ordered a replacement which also measured 8.1kOhms, so I did not replace it. I did move the thermistor to the correct location on the evap coil. What else can I check?

Thanks in advance,

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

Check for any air leaks within the air duct, and evaporator cover assembly. If the evaporator cover is difficult to reassemble, this may indicate that airflow parts are not properly aligned and not sealing properly. Verify Proper door alignment.

Check your serial number for a service flash (#HR60100001-#HR85200001). Check the evap fan motor for proper operation. When the ref section is calling for cooling, the control checks the evaporator for a set temperature. If it's below the set temperature the control turns the fan on for several minutes to make sure the coils are defrosted completely before starting a cooling cycle.

 

[JSS22]

Rick,

Thanks for the tips! Once I get the unit defrosted I'll report back. My serial number is later than that range, an HR928 prefix.

The evap cover appeared to fit into place without any massaging during reassembly; it clicked right into place onto the two pegs in the middle, and then I screwed the top into place. What is a good way to check for proper airflow/leaks and to test fan speed? There was not what I would consider 'strong' airflow when it was running after re-assembly

Will do the dollar bill test on the refrigerator door.

Thanks again,

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

Are all the coils frosted over?

 

[JSS22]

Yes, the coils were covered in ice on both occasions (when we first noticed the high temp in the fridge, and after testing and moving the thermistor). It took about 2 weeks for the coils to ice over and the temp to rise again in the fridge at the recommended 37 degree setting.

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

The fresh food evaporator doesn't use a defrost heater. It relies on the air in the fresh food compartment (above 32°F) to keep it frost free. Sounds like you've done everything, replaced the thermistor, and checked for air leaks, and the fan is working.

That just leaves the control board:

Whirlpool W11172798 Cntrl-Elec (AP6285454) - AppliancePartsPros.com

CNTRL-ELEC W11172798 / AP6285454 made by Whirlpool

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I can't think of anything else.

 

[rickgburton]

Does the refrigerator run constantly or does it cycle on and off?

 

[JSS22]

It does cycle on and off. Currently it is keeping about 48 degrees with the ice on the evaporator and louvers. I will defrost it tomorrow and recheck everything, and replace the board if I need to. Will double check the door and gasket for leaks, and ensure the fan is getting 14V, as it did not seem to move lots of air when I checked it prior to reassembly (I did not remove it from the styrofoam). I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again,

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

Sounds good. Keep us posted.

 

[JSS22]

Got the evap cover and insulation/fan housing off. It was socked in.

Once defrosted will recheck fan voltage, fan operation, ohm out thermistor again.

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

Is the thermistor tight against the suction line?

 

[JSS22]

Yes, steel clip and 2 zip ties.

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

When you defrost it be sure it doesn't have any frost left inside when you reassemble it.

 

[JSS22]

Some updates: Was out of town for a few days while it was fully defrosting. I got it fully defrosted, verified 14V to fan, checked thermistor tightness, but unfortunately had to put the kitchenaid back in service before doing any more investigating due to my back-up fridge's evap also freezing up (but it is still under warranty).

So I will have to finish investigating once the back-up fridge is back on-line. I have the kitchenaid back together save for the plastic cover so I can see when it will start to ice up again, and I will also make sure the door seals well. Thanks again for all of your help!

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

I have the kitchenaid back together save for the plastic cover so I can see when it will start to ice up again,

The refrigerator will not cool properly with the evaporator cover left off.

 

[JSS22]

I will replace it then. When the kitchenaid ices back up and the brand new back-up fridge is back online (bad evap heater coil and door seal going to be replaced under warranty), I'll dig back into it.

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

Sounds good.

 

[JSS22]

OK, finally got a chance to dig into this. Verified 14V to fridge fan, good fan operation, blows strong on testing in diagnostics mode. Fridge Evap thermistor is 8.1 kOhm at 32 degrees (submerged in ice water), spec is 8.8kOhm @32F, measured at the control board. Ordered a spare, but it measured identically in ice water, so I did not replace it. Moved the fridge evap thermistor to return line and adjusted the clip for tight contact to the return line. Good seal all around the evap cover foam, I can find no leaks with tissue paper when the fan is running for air to bypass the evap. Buttoned it all up and seeing what will happen now.

What else do I need to check? Should I return the out of spec thermistor?

Saw this thread: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainf...d-side-by-side-refrigerator-coil-icing.85941/

I have not run through step 4 in diag mode measuring temps. May try that next.

JSS

 

[rickgburton]

Sounds good. I think you got it. If you can return the thermistor, do it.

 

[JSS22]

Well it looks like my fridge evap is almost iced over again, but it did last longer this time around (almost 2 weeks). I had it set to defrost every 8 hours per service mode #7, and I bought a few extra days without frost when I first started seeing it by forcing a defrost with service mode 38 in the evenings, but it eventually frosted completely between the fins. Is there anything else I need to check, and is this just a poorly designed fridge that I can expect will keep doing this? The freezer section and icemaker are terrific. I plan on defrosting it and checking service mode test 4 once it is cleared of ice.

Thanks in advance,

JSS