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FIXED KitchenAid KSCS23INSS00 Ice Maker Malfunctioning

indyanne

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
Model Number
KSCS23INSS00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
I've been troubleshooting my KSCS23INSS00 ice maker. I have conducted several tests of the optics. I have used a jumper at T and H on the cam timer module to start the harvest several times.

The optics test fine every time. The problem seems to be with the cam timer module.

The ejector can be set back to 2:00 home position using the jumper, and the mold fills up with water just fine on this manual reset. But, that's it -- the ejector never returns back to 2:00 on its own.

The cam timer module and new ejector set Part# 8201515 arrived today and I have replaced these parts. I am waiting now to see if this fixes the problem.

The ejector is sitting on 2:00, but there is no water in the ice trough, of course.

Question: should I conduct a manual reset with the jumper to get the cycle going, or, as I have done, just plug the module in and let it go on its own?

Thanks,
Anne
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
123,933
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Anne,

The water should fill the ice maker before it gets to the 2:00 home position, when you say its filling with water on manual reset, what does that mean? When is it filling with water?

Jake
 

indyanne

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
I am talking about the original module, when the jumper is used, will go through a fill cycle of water into the mold, and the ejector will revolve into the home position, but when the time comes to dump the ice, the ejector will not complete the cycle around. The water melts in the mold and the ejector becomes frozen into the ice.

When I took the original module out, replaced with the new one, I found that one of the tabs holding the ejector arm, the end with the "D" profile, into the module was broken. I'll try to attach a photo. This tells me that somehow, the ejector is not making it back into the home position.

So, with the new module in place, should I do anything to get the cycle going? Should I use the jumper to initiate the first harvest cycle, to prompt the system to fill the mold with water? Or, will the thermostat -- without using the jumper -- start the cycle?

I regret to say that I put the new module and ejector and stripper pieces on the ice maker, plugged in the wiring, and nothing has happened.

I tried the jumper sequence indicated in the service manual, but the harvest cycle did not begin.

I now have the ice maker out, planning to start over. First, I want to test the power going to each of the circuits on the module. I am using the wiring diagram that I found on a sheet that was folded into a tiny little wad in the bottom of the fridge when I removed the grille to clean the coils with the vacuum cleaner and brush.

I am not against calling a service rep, but I am averse to paying the labor cost and possibly risk someone coming who will simply suggest a very expensive repair option that might not be necessary.

I hope I will not damage the fridge in the process of these trouble-shooting efforts.

Thanks,
Anne
 

Jake

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Messages
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Ok, I see it.

So let me get this straight, the new ice maker module came with the gear tab broken? Were did you buy the new ice maker module? Thats the problem, the new ice maker module shouldn't come with the gear tab broken, send it back and request another one.

Jake
 

Jake

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Wait, I'm getting confused from the old module to the new one. Lets forget about the old module, I re-read your post and looks like the new module is fine.

Should I use the jumper to initiate the first harvest cycle, to prompt the system to fill the mold with water? Or, will the thermostat -- without using the jumper -- start the cycle?
Yes, thats what I do, but remember before you jump the T & H you need to unplug your refrigerator for about 5 minutes first!

Then plug it in, then jump T & H while holding your freezer light switch in and also while holding the flapper on the left side wall closed, you can use tape to hold it for you.

Then leave the jumper wire in T & H for about 15-20 seconds, after you see the gear moving.

Give it up to 90 seconds for the gear to start moving once you put the jumper wire in T & H.

Jake
 

indyanne

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
More issues:

Here are the steps I took:

--unplug the fridge
--remove the ice maker (this lets the module and moving parts thaw)
--wait five minutes
--put the jumper in T and H
--reinstall the ice maker (I'm not clear here -- leave the door open?)
--plug the fridge back in
--hold the IR flap against the side and hold the door light switch closed, simultaneously
--Wait for the module gear to begin moving (harvest cycle begins), wait as long as 90 seconds for the harvest cycle to begin.
--Close the door. Problem is, I wait so long with the door open that the freezer temp gets too high to make ice, so I remove the jumper, close the door, and log back into this thread while the freezer cools back down.

Help! The gear is not moving at all.

I unplugged the fridge for five seconds, then plugged in and waited five seconds. Then I opened the freezer door and checked the LED code. I saw the two two-second lights followed by one second off, then three pulses. The service manual, page 5-7 indicates the optics and relay are ok, but the ice maker is not being sensed, or will not operate (no kidding!).
--Check the bail arm switch to make sure it is OK (my model does not use the bail arm, but the switch on the module that would operate the bail on and off is not engaged on its little parking spot, little round dot thingy on the module. I mean, the switch can be set manually to the bail arm off position, but I don't do that, I leave it alone, to be engaged by the cam mechanism on the module.)
--Check the ice maker circuit and the connections back to the receiver board and neutral. (I'm able to check these circuits. I don't know what the neutral is -- is this the neutral electrical wire?)
--Check the ice maker components.

What could be going on here? Apparently, the problem with the ice maker was mechanical. The sleeve on the cam motor and the motor cam tab was broken. Why would there be an electrical problem if the break was simply mechanical? Broken original module out, new unbroken module in, fixed, no? No! Now it appears the ice maker is not being recognized despite the optics working fine.

The blue sheet that I found folded into a little wad in the bottom of the fridge when I took the grille off to clean the condenser coils gives guidance for the multimeter tests. I'll go find my multimeter and try those tests.

Help!

Optics continue to test fine.

I wonder if the new module is bad?
 
Last edited:

indyanne

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Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
I'm thinking maybe the thermostat is blown.

Now I wonder if I should return the module set and get a new ice maker Part#2198597?

Darnit. This refrigerator is just a bit over a year old.
 

Jake

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Messages
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Location
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Don't worry about leaving your door open while you test it, it will turn the ice maker gear without it freezing while you jump the T & H.

Before you do anything else, ohm the in-line thermal fuse, its located on the wiring harness to the ice maker. If that in-line thermal fuse is open, then we found the problem. Because it seems you've done everything correctly.

It comes integrated with the ice maker wire harness, in case you need to order it:
Wire Harness 2187467 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


Its the black wire, ohm that black wire for continuity.

Jake
 

indyanne

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Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
Thanks! I'll let you know how that goes. I can't find my multimeter :-( It's here somewhere. I'm also rehabbing a vintage Airstream trailer, learning a lot about circuits and fuses. This forum works just like the Airstream Forum (airforums.com). Easy to use.

Thanks for getting back so quickly, by the way. I'll try to do the same.
 

indyanne

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Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
Yes! The fuse is blown. Is the fuse 5 amps?

Don't worry about leaving your door open while you test it, it will turn the ice maker gear without it freezing while you jump the T & H.

Before you do anything else, ohm the in-line thermal fuse, its located on the wiring harness to the ice maker. If that in-line thermal fuse is open, then we found the problem. Because it seems you've done everything correctly.

It comes integrated with the ice maker wire harness, in case you need to order it:
Wire Harness 2187467 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


Its the black wire, ohm that black wire for continuity.

Jake
 

Jake

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Messages
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Location
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I don't know if its 5 amps.

Whenever I find the fuse blown, I always order the wiring harness.:)

Jake
 

indyanne

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
Thanks! Yes, I discovered that this is not a current issue, it's a heat issue. Somehow, the line overheated, probably from the jumper in the thermostat too long, probably blew the thermostat, too. Thank goodness these failures are protected!

I have a digital multimeter. I set it to the first setting (200 ohms), with the thermostat at room temperature, and I got a reading of OL. which is no change from baseline.

After putting the thermostat in the freezer for 20 minutes, I get a reading of OL. which is no change from baseline.

Unless there is something I am missing, that tells me that the thermostat is broken.

So, not only do I need another thermal fuse, but I need a new thermostat.

What else upstream of the thermal fuse should I be looking for?

Thanks,
Anne
 

Jake

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indyanne

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Indianapolis
All is well

The thermostat turned out to be fine. I guess I the first time I tried to test it, I did not leave it in the freezer long enough to engage the switch; I checked it three times later and it tested perfectly each time.

Replacing the harness was the right thing to do. The thermal fuse can't be replaced easily.

So, to recap the repair:

I had to replace the whole module because the broken cam timer gear wheel and the bushing that connects the timer to the ejector arm were stressed and broken, and you can't get just these apparently easily stress-fractured items -- you have to buy the whole (*&^ module.

I suppose I damaged the thermal fuse in the wiring harness by jumping the thermostat for too long, allowing the neutral wire (thermally fused) and the mold got too hot.

I installed the new thermostat before I realized there was nothing wrong with the original thermostat.

Rather than take everything apart again, I put the original thermostat and tube of thermal mastic on, along with the module,

A repair that would have been quite costly was reasonable, and I learned a lot in the process. All in all, now that we have ice again, I'm pleased with the repairs I was able to do myself with help from the forum, especially Jake.

Peace,
Anne
 
Last edited:

Jake

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Good job fixing it Anne.:)

Jake
 
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