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FIXED KitchenAid KSF26C4XYY03 Refrigerator Ice maker inop

Rmueller

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Charlotte NC
Model Number
KSF26C4XYY03
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Hi,

Trying to troubleshoot an inop ice maker and not having much luck. Here are the things I’ve done so far:

Checked temp of freezer - 0F
Checked optics - normal
There was ice in the mold, nevertheless tested fill valve by jumping L and V - fill valve opens and water flows into mold
Jumped T and H - nothing happens
Test between L and N for 120VAC - No (Also entered diagnostic mode 25, same)
Test P3-3 on main control board for 120VAC - Yes
Checked wiring and connections at bottom of door - appear fine
Also removed ice maker from freezer and bench tested the motor by applying 120VAC to the motor leads directly - motor operates normally

I’m really not sure what else to try at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
109,917
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, did you remove the wire harness loom under the freezer door and check for broken wires under there too?

Did you hold the optics flapper in and hold the door switch in when you checked for 120 volts at the L and N test holes on the ice maker module?

Jake
 

Rmueller

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Charlotte NC
No, I didn’t actually remove the loom, I only checked the connections and inspected the visible part of the loom. It all looked good, no fraying or any signs of wear or damage.

Yes, I did hold the optics flapper in and had the door switch taped in.

It sounds like removing the wiring loom from the door for further inspection would be the next logical step?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Yes, remove the wire harness loom.:)

That's usually where others have found the broken wires.

cut wires.jpg


Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
109,917
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No.

Jake
 

Rmueller

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Charlotte NC
That’s good news, hoping to complete this repair without losing everything in the freezer! Do you happen to have a link to instructions or a video showing how to remove the loom? Unfortunately my searches aren’t turning up anything useful. Thanks!
 

Rmueller

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Charlotte NC
BTW, I have confirmed I have broken wire somewhere in the door. I did a continuity check of each of the 4 wires between the plug at the ice maker and the plug at the bottom of the door. Three check out fine but the white wire is open.
 

Wx4usa

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
93
Location
Alabama
There is an ice maker neutral switch on some models that could be why the white has no continuity. The switch is located behind the ice storage bin. According to the schematic, this appears to apply to your model
 

Rmueller

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Charlotte NC
And when I asked earlier how to remove the loom I actually meant how to remove the harness (thinking it’ll be much easier to work on it if it is removed from the door). As is, I think I can splice it without removing it. However I’m still wondering if the entire harness can be replaced with a new one?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
109,917
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, you found the broken wires!

There is not a wire harness they sell separately for this model, and you can't get the whole door either, its been discontinued: LW10410951

So you will just need to repair the broken wires.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Glad to help, Let us know how it goes after you fix the wires!

Jake
 

Rmueller

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Charlotte NC
Making ice as we speak! Just used butt splices to reconnect the white wire which was completely severed and the blue from the other bundle which was barely holding on but came apart while I was working on it. As you can see, there is also a tan wire which has damage to the insulation but the actual conductor is still good. I think I’ll just wrap it in electrical tape and then put it all back together. That first harvest was pretty exciting! Thanks again!
 

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Rmueller

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Charlotte NC
Just out of curiosity, any idea what caused this? From reading on here, sounds like this isn’t all that uncommon. Looking at the damage, the wires almost look cut, not frayed or worn like you would expect from repeated movement of opening and closing the door. Could also be caused by pinching, but I can’t see anything that would pinch the wires. They seemed well protected with the loom and held in place with the rubber grommet. I’m at a loss as to how this could happen.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Excellent, glad that fixed it.(y)

Yes, this problem has been very common for a few years now, I don't know why some refrigerators have this problem and some don't.

It could be the way the wire harness is routed, or if you had this delivered when it was new they had to take the doors off to get it into your house and the installers failed to route the wire harness the same way as it was before the door came off.

Just make sure there is enough slack in the wire harness before you put the kickplate grille back in place.

Jake
 
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