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KitchenAid KSSC42QMS01 not cooling on both side

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tnguyen875

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
Model Number
KSSC42QMS01
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
My KitchenAid refrigerator stopped cooling on both side. I run the diagnostics routine. I get step 5 for the compressor with status indicator shows number "2" at first but then turned to 1 after about 6 minutes. Step 7 for Defrost Heater/ Bi-Metal with status indicator shows number "2". I tested the inputs of the inverter which was 12 VAC for the Red/White and Red wires in. The Black and White wires showed 119.55 VAC. However, I could not received any output current from the inverter to the compressor. I bought new one from RepairClinic.com. It does the same thing. I tested the compressor for the resistance on the 3 pins. I got no resistance at all for any 2 pins. I set the ohmmeter at 200 ohms. It keeps showing 1 or -1. What should I do next for the problem?

Another issue is the ice-maker did not make ice for long time. Recently, I checked it by opening the door of the Refrigerator and hold on the door switch for the test. I activate the ice dispenser the water filter indicator did not turn on however the water dispenser was fine with the water filter dispenser indicator display number "1" when I press the water dispenser. Please tell me where should I check next.

Thank you very much for your help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Lets ohm test the compressor again, read below on how its done.

Here's what Rick and Jeff also said on how to check your 3 compressor pins:

There are three pins in a triangle configuration. The pin at the top is Common. The pin at left is usually Start. The pin to the right is usually Run. Read between C-S and C-R

Use an ohmmeter to check the C-S: Ohmmeter should indicate between 3 and 11 ohms. Then check the C-R: Ohmmeter should indicate between 1 and 5 ohms. Then check from each compressor pin to the compressor body for a short.

If your having a problem finding the START and RUN windings pins on your compressor Read what Jeff says here:

First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding.

NOTE: IF you measure across S-R, ignoring the common. That reading should be the exact total of the two individual coil readings, because you're reading through both coils in series now. If those two sets of readings aren't within about 1/2 ohm of each other, then one of the compressor windings is shorted, and if it runs at all, it'll run hot and usually end up short-cycling on its overload protector.

Jake
 

tnguyen875

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
Thank you very much for your promptly helps.
The compressor that I have is the one with 2 prongs on top, and 1 at bottom. I test them all by pairs. The results are the same for each pair, 7.5 ohms. I checked each compressor pin to the compressor body and ground on the cabinet, I have no continuity for all pins. Since the ohms of each pair of 3 prongs are the same I have no clue which is which of START or RUN.
Now, it seems like the compressor do some humming. I feel the vibration from it when it is running. I think I will do the freon recharge next week to see if it the case. What do you think?

Could you have me on the other issue?
Another issue is the ice-maker did not make ice for long time. Recently, I checked it by opening the door of the Refrigerator and hold on the door switch for the test. I activate the ice dispenser the water filter indicator did not turn on however the water dispenser was fine with the water filter dispenser indicator display number "1" when I press the water dispenser. Please tell me where should I check next.

Thank you very much.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
125,796
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It seems you don't understand how to ohm test the compressor, I made it very clear in post#2.

If the refrigerator is not cooling at all, the ice maker will not work.

Testing procedure:
Connect power to the refrigerator and allow it to enter the “cooling” mode.

While the refrigerator is in the cooling mode, the inverter and main control board voltages should be 3 to 6 VDC between the red wire and the white wire at the inverter and 120 VAC between the black wire and the white wire.

If the 3 to 6 volts DC is not present at the inverter red/white and red wires, check P7-3 and P7-8 on the main control board for 3 to 6 volts DC. If the voltage is not present, replace the main control board W10219463

If the 3 to 6 volts DC is present at the main control board, unplug the refrigerator or disconnect the power.

Disconnect the wire connector going from the inverter to the compressor. Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

Touch the meter leads to any two compressor pins. The meter should indicate approximately 9 to 10 Ω. Check between each set of pins to test all three windings.

Set the ohmmeter to the highest scale. Touch one meter lead to the cabinet ground and the other lead to each of the three compressor terminals. The meter should indicate an open circuit (infinite). Any other reading indicates a shorted compressor.


Jake
 

tnguyen875

Premium Member
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Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
Thank you Jake,
I checked the compressor and found that it is low on freon. I recharged. It is working fine now for both sides.

About the issue of the ice-maker happened before the not cooling of the fridge long time ago. We could not use it for more than a year ago. Now by the way I fix this cooling problem I want to fix the ice-maker too. Recently, I checked it by opening the door of the Refrigerator and hold on the door switch for the test. I activate the ice dispenser the water filter indicator did not turn on however the water dispenser was fine with the water filter dispenser indicator display number "1" when I press the water dispenser. I also check the water valves for ice-maker and water dispenser by the ohmmeter, both have continuity fine. Please tell me where should I check next.

Again, thank you very much for your clearly and promptly responses, Jake.
 

tnguyen875

Premium Member
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Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
Hi Jake,
I forgot to tell that there is no water in the ice-maker tray. The ice-maker tray is very cold.

Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
125,796
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If it was low of freon then you have a leak, you need to fix the leak first before adding freon, you also need to replace the filter drier.

Let's test the optics first, Follow these steps, and report back:

Step#1: Open the freezer and view the status led

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam or the optics are faulty.


Step#2: Press the emitter flapper to unblock the optics beam

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The optics are faulty. Replace the emitter and receiver boards.

If the LED is on steady: The optics are working properly.

Here are the optics boards you can order, they come together in 1 kit with video:
Whirlpool W10757851 Cntrl-Elec


Also, When looking at your ice maker from the front which way is the ejector arm fingers pointing?

Normal would be pointing at you or slightly above you.

Here's the ice maker for your model, see how the ejector arm fingers should be pointing right at you?
WPW10277448 Ice Maker Assembly


Jake
 

tnguyen875

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
Hi Jake,
As you suggested, I checked and found that both the ice maker and the optics board are malfunction. I replaced both of them and the ice maker backed to work. Thank you very much for your helps.
However, the overtemp light is flashing, both RC and FC go up on temperatures. I reset then the compressor back to work but for awhile then stop so the overtemp light flashed again. I did several times but it kept doing so.
Would you help me on this? Thanks again, Jake.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,796
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I reset then the compressor back to work
Can you explain what you mean by that?

Jake
 

tnguyen875

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
Thanh you Jake.
I pressed the overtemp light button to stop the flashing. I pressed the max temp button and hear the compressor back to work.
 

tnguyen875

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
I had mention that I did refill the Freon. I will check the freon tonight to see if it still there or it might have leaked. If it leaked then what should I do to find where or how to fix it? Please help. Thank you very much.
Tony.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
125,796
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Tony, how did you fill it with Froen? Do you have manifold gauges to check the low side pressure?

You need a turbo torch to weld the access valve on the low side, you also have to replace the filter drier whenever you open up a sealed system.

Jake
 

tnguyen875

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
8
Location
California
I bought the Supco BPV31 bullet piercing valve, and Goetland Diagnostic Manifold gauge kit. I pierced the hole with that valve on a small pipe that came out from the compressor, which is sticking up as a "J" from the compressor. I use the manifold gauge with 2 the blue and yellow pipelines to measure and fill up the freon.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
125,796
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I pierced the hole with that valve on a small pipe that came out from the compressor
You can no longer do that by law, you have to weld it in place.:)

You didn't find and repair the leak first?

Consumers can not do sealed system work on their own unless you are a licensed tech. and have knowledge in using a turbo torch, finding and repairing leaks, replacing filter driers, etc.

I can't help you anymore, this thread is closed!

Jake
 
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