Kitchenaid KUDE40FXPA4 Dishwasher Intermittent Goes Dead

[drobins9]

Model Number

KUDE40FXPA4

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

Hello- I have the Kitchenaid dishwasher listed above. Some time ago, it stopped working. Then a few weeks later, it started working for many months. Then it stopped again. I took it apart, and I don't see a thermal fuse on the control panel. I tested the power, and it is steady at approximately 125 volts going in to the contorl panel. As I took the wires out and put them back in, it started working again. I thought great and started putting it back together, and continued testing it periodically, but it went dead again at some point. It is still getting power. So, I don't think there is a fuse problem, and it doesn't seem like a loose connector (since it has power when I hook the multimeter up.)

Can the control board just intermittently work and not work? I feel like replacing it (W10461374 REV B) would solve the issue, but it feels like there has to be a simpler problem and that would be a waste.

To be clear, when it is dead, it is dead. No lights, no beeping, nothing.

Thank you!

Picture of the control board, just for the heck of it:

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Yes, it sounds like the problem is your control board is malfunctioning.

W10461374 changes over to W10473198.

Here's the control board for your model:
W10473198 Electronic Control Board


I can't see the photo of the control board, does it look like its overheating or shows signs of brown heat stress color on it?

 

[drobins9]

Thank you so much. I guess I'll break down and buy the new board. Sorry the image didn't make it, I'll try again here, but no, no signs of burning etc.

Don

 

[Jake]

I'm attaching your data sheet below. Yes, I see your control board now, it looks normal, but I do see brownish color towards the bottom of it, unless that's the shadow effect of the plastic casing around the circuit board.

This is what it says when its dead like you mentioned:

If your getting 120 volts between P4-2(black wire) and P4-1(white wire) on the control board, then your bi-metal is good. It could also be a faulty control panel(user interface) per the tech. data sheet.

Panel-Cntl WPW10500087

 

[drobins9]

I think what appears brownish in the picture is just the lighting.

So this is weird. I put my multimeter on the metal prongs above the "bi-metal" and got between 3.6V and 3.8V. I took the plug out, and it had 120V. As I kept remeasuring, with the plug out and the multimeter tips directly in the plug, I am alternating between 120V and 3.6V to 3.8V. When I plug it in, I am always getting 3.6V to 3.8V on the top.

The alternating when I probe the plug directly can be hit or miss without moving the plug. Then I can intentionally move the plug while the probes are in, and it doesn't change. So it doesn't seem like a loose connection where you just move/adjust it and it comes back to life. I can get 120V, take the probe out, put them back in the same place, and get 3.8V.

This concerns me the control board isn't going to do it..

 

[Jake]

Yes, that is very odd, I don't know the case of that.