It did back off, with some effort, and when "snuggged" back down ended up about where I started. Attached is a picture of where it is now. The gap is about 0.10 inch. Is that pretty much normal?
Seems odd this one would be in "LP" position while the pressure regulator deal was in the "NG" position. Which, according to my info, is with the "tip" facing out. I take it the arrows for LP and NG on that piece point "out" toward the white cap, when in the correct position for that fuel?
Installed and working, but, the oven flame has very long yellow/orange tails at the widest opening of the air mixer. I mean a couple of inches, not the half inch the install manual states. At this point, I guess I should just call it good.
While I wanted to call this good, once actually buttoned up and setting it to bake something, noticed the temperature rising faster than normal, then noticed flames "licking out" around the edges of the removable painted pan. I can also hear a distinct sound, like a "pop" when lighting off or shutting off.
That's not right, is it? See attached, hard to see. Is this too much air, or too little? How do I fix that if the adjustment range is insufficient. I should say the burners on the range top look normal, same as before I changed the valve.
From what I can gather, this looks like a case of not enough air. The air adjustment is as wide open as it can be. The "orifice hood" (?) is screwed in snug and seems like it will not go further without significant force, probably breaking it.
Orifice hood, it is unusual to be already in the propane position....normally speaking it is set for NG and we much change things for LP. You do not want to over tighten it as that can damage the orifice.
Is there a screw or such to loosen so the air shutter can be moved/adjusted?
Too much air and the flame often lifts off of the burner.
Too little air and we get those yellow lazy flames.
Double check that regulator.
Did the valve assembly look used at all?
The regulator is correct, the pointed end was installed "into" the threaded hole. The air shutter is open as far as it can be and the flames are yellow/orange and "stringy".
Thanks. I suspect I just need to tighten the orifice hood the 2 1/2 turns. I've attached a pic with the current position of the hood. I think that must be the NG position, yes? The original part has a much smaller gap between the bottom of the brass piece and the body of the valve. And the original replacement I had to turn hard to get that 2 1/2 turns. But, since it started leaking within a week or so, I figured maybe I damaged it.
Been checking the original and that replacement for the height of the pin and the space inside the hood and it appears it can be tightened quite a bit and still have some clearance.
Also been talking with someone at Appliance parts support, but have not heard back on trying to tighten it that 2 1/2 turns.
Surely, someone knows what the gap should look like in the NG and LP positions?
Not having received the "official blessings" I hoped for, I just followed reasoning, using what I know and have read. Moved the hood CCW a half turn then CW a half turn, several times, then found it was easier to continue CW past that point.
I was able to continue to rotate CW to complete 2 + turns, albeit feeling, to me, to be "snug" the whole time. I stopped there with still some clearance visible between the bottom of the hex and the valve. The flame is now smaller and "normal" blue, with an occasional flicker of yellow. "But no yellow tips". Air shutter is now about half shut.
Heats quickly, without fuss or pops and maintains temperature. So far, no odors when off. Or otherwise.