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FIXED KitchenAid Refrigerator KBFS25EWMS5 Ice Maker stuck in the middle of a harvest cycle

ron22

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
3
Location
08050
Model Number
KBFS25EWMS5
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
My KitchenAid ice maker stopped working 4 days ago. I shorted test points T-H and the ice maker started producing ice for 1-2 days but then got stuck in the middle of the harvest cycle. The ejector arm is pointing to about 4-5 o'clock. Shorting T-H will not manually start a harvest cycle anymore. Is there a way to get the ice maker to finish the harvest cycle when its stuck in the middle of a cycle?

Thanks
Ron
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,615
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Ron,

I've seen this happen many times on my service calls, the problem is the ice maker gear has stripped out, the only fix is to replace the ice maker.

Here's the ice maker for your model you can order:
D7824706Q Replacement Icemaker


Jake
 

ron22

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
3
Location
08050
Hi Jake,

Thanks for your prompt reply.

Doing some further troubleshooting. I removed the ice maker and reinstalled it in case it wasn't working due to internal ice buildup but that didn't fix the problem. I disconnected the icemaker wire harness from the connector at the back of the freezer and with the ice maker disconnected, I only measure 14VAC at the connector on the back of the freezer between the 2 outside pins where black and white wires on the ice maker's wire harness would connect. I would expect to see either 120VAC or close to 0VAC. The freezer door switch was taped down when I made the measurement.

Before I replace the icemaker, I would like to make sure there isn't something else that failed in the refrigerator/freezer itself. Does the fridge sense the ice maker is connected before supplying power or could I not be making good contact on the connector due to a film of ice buildup?

I appreciate all your help.

Ron
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,615
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I disconnected the icemaker wire harness from the connector at the back of the freezer and with the ice maker disconnected, I only measure 14VAC at the connector on the back of the freezer between the 2 outside pins where black and white wires on the ice maker's wire harness would connect. I would expect to see either 120VAC
Ok Ron, that's very strange, because if you only had 14 Volts AC that is not even enough volts to make the ice maker do anything, unless you are intermittently getting 14 Volts AC.

ALSO: You use your multimeter to test for 120 volts in test points L and N on the module WHEN it stalls.

If you get 120 volts then you have good power to the ice maker.

Yes, make sure the light switch is pressed in, or taped closed. Your light switch is working fine? It turns the freezer light on and off properly without it flicking?

Let us what you find.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,615
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If your not getting 120 Volts AC at all now, lets ohm test your in-line thermal fuse.

You would need to use YOUR multimeter to check for continuity in your ice maker wire harness in-line fuse, normal ohm reading would be 0 ohms.

Here's the ice maker harness for your model:
Manufacturer part number WPD7813010


See the black wire? Thats the one that has the in-line fuse. If its bad, then that's the problem.

Let us what you find.

Jake
 

ron22

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
3
Location
08050
Hi Jake,

I finally got around to looking at the icemaker again this weekend. Since I could not read 120VAC at the back of the refrigerator with the icemaker removed, I was minutes away from removing the back wall of the freezer to trace and test the wiring through the fridge itself.

Luckily before I did that major operation, I looked at the fridge's complete wiring diagram more closely and saw that the freezer light switch is a double throw switch and not a single throw switch which connects voltage to the light OR the icemaker and breaks the connection to the other one. This made me realize that just because the freezer light was going on and off when toggling the switch, it did not guarantee that the switch was making contact to connect voltage to the icemaker. Blowing hot air on the switch with a hair dryer to free up any possible ice film in the switch got the icemaker working again.

I may need to replace the switch at some point in the future but everything is working right now.

Thanks for your help,

Ron
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,615
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent Ron, Good find.(y)

Here's the freezer door switch for your model:
Door Switch W11396033


Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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