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FIXED KitchenAid Refrigerator KFIS29PBMS03 Freezer evaporator coil Freezing up

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Thinkcooper

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Santa Cruz, CA
Model Number
KFIS29PBMS03
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
We've owned this KitchenAid French Door Bottom Mount Freezer since 2014, and the freezer has worked well in the past; however within the last three months the freezer coil has been freezing solid with ice. I've had to do full defrosts with a heat gun (covers on in the freezer) once every 3-4 weeks. On my first defrost three months ago, the bottom of the freezer had 1/4" ice. I checked out the S tube drain and gasket and there was no blockage, but the drain trays under the fridge were oddly dry. Leveled the fridge a little front high to see if it drained differently (no ice build up on the floor that time, but freezer evap coil was solid ice). Last week, during my latest defrost, I replaced the freezer door gasket, leveled it normally, but sadly it's already freezing up and there's a wee bit of ice on the freezer floor. :cry:

Would doing a deeper defrost and opening up the freezer evap cover to be sure the drain isn't frozen be a good next step?

To gather whatever other data I could find, I entered the Service Diagnostic mode.
- The FC Thermistor shows as 01-pass,
- Defrost Bimetal Heater shows 02-open,
- Defrost Mode is in 02-Basic,
- Ice Box Thermistor is 01-pass.
- As a blind stab in the dark I set the Forced Defrost Mode to Long, and let the unit sit in Diagnostic Mode until it timed out - I only have assumptions on what this does (and you know what they say about assumptions).


I'm planning on doing a pin by pin test on the boards with a multimeter to see if I can narrow anything down, but at this point, it feels like it would save time and put the project to rest if I just bought a new Control Board for it. Does that make sense to replace? Is there anything else I should order up to have on hand? New FC Thermistor perhaps?

Thanks in advance!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,555
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below. The bi-metal(aka defrost thermostat) MUST be frosty to get a proper ohm reading.

Service Test - 6: Defrost Heater/Bi-metal
NOTE: If bi-metal is open, it will need to be bypassed for heater to operate.
Heater should be on. Display will be blank until a valid reading is displayed (01 = bi-metal closed, 02 = bi-metal open).

Its possibly the defrost thermostat, it ONLY comes with the evaporator fan motor. The defrost thermostat is the black circular part that clips to the top of your evaporator coil.

--->The way to test the defrost thermostat is to unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet, then pull that plastic electrical connector out that it goes to, it unsnaps, then use your multimeter and set it on 200 ohms and ohm test the defrost thermostat WHILE ITS FROSTY, if it's not frosty you will not get a proper reading. If your meter doesn't change numbers while your ohm testing it, then its bad. It should read 0 ohms WHILE FROSTY.:)

The wires you will need to ohm test from that electrical connector are the orange and brown ones.

Here's the defrost thermostat and evaporator fan motor for your model:
W11032800 Motor-Evap


If you don't have a meter, you can bypass the defrost thermostat and see if the defrost heater comes ON in TEST 6. Your tech. data sheet is located underneath the right side refrigerator upper hinge cover, it gives you the steps to put it in TEST 6.

Look at my post #21 here:

Jake
 

Attachments

  • Tech Sheet - W10727531 - Rev A.pdf
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Thinkcooper

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Santa Cruz, CA
Hey Jake - thanks for your input on this. I will test the FC Bi-Metal this morning with my multimeter. Quick question for you - is the plug that goes to the FC Evap Fan and Bi-Metal harness referred to as the P14 plug on the Main Control Board? (I think I answered that question myself by looking at your post #21 above - looks like the FC Evap Fan plug with the orange/brown wires is inside the Freezer, not the control board)
 
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,555
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Quick question for you - is the plug that goes to the FC Evap Fan and Bi-Metal harness referred to as the P14 plug on the Main Control Board? (I think I answered that question myself by looking at your post #21 above - looks like the FC Evap Fan plug with the orange/brown wires is inside the Freezer, not the control board)
Correct you ohm test the defrost thermostat from the orange and brown wires in the PLUG, not on the board. Unplug that PLUG and ohm test the defrost thermostat from the orange and brown wires in the PLUG

Make sure the defrost thermostat is frosty first.

Jake
 

Thinkcooper

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Santa Cruz, CA
Pleased to share that everything is fixed at this point. Installed a new defrost thermostat and evap motor harness yesterday after a thorough defrost- made sure the freezer drain funnel was completely thawed and water would pass through (which was going slow with a heat gun, but much faster with a small space heater in the freezer).

I'd ordered a new Control Board because we were getting a series of PO shut-downs as well. Installed that too. I'll swap back in the old board to test and confirm those PO errors were the Control Board. If the old board works and we aren't getting PO errors, I'll keep the new board as a spare (or eBay it). But so far, zero PO errors with that new board installed.

Lastly, replaced my Freezer LED which solved the lights out in the fridge. Yay!

Thank you Jake - is there a way to donate on the site that gets to you?
 
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,555
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,555
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks!

We have a old saying here--->If momma ain't happy, no ones happy! LOL

Jake
 
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