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FIXED KitchenAid Refrigerator KRFF507ESS01 ice maker diagnostics showing E2 for Service Test 56

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Mike477

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Georgia
Model Number
KRFF507ESS01
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
Which indicates the 'Motor lost position'. But when I perform Service Test 57 which is intended to rotate the motor to the 'home position' the motor does not turn at all. And Service Test 59 indicates 'harvesting not completed'. I'm thinking this means my motor is not working or not receiving power somehow.

All other tests indicate other components are working fine - thermistor, heater, etc. And I am monitoring the temperature which indicates around 37 in the refrigerator and down to around 7 in the ice bin.

Any help someone can provide is much appreciated. Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,843
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Service Test - 56: Ice Maker Error Codes
Displays active ice maker error codes on the UI display.
E0 = no errors. Functioning ice maker
E1 = no cooling. Ice maker timed out. Ice compartment was unable to reach desired temperatures, possible cooling or fan issue.
E2 = Motor lost position. Ice maker did not nd home during harvest and exceeded maximum attempts.
NOTE: Check for obstructions in ice maker. If none found, verify operation of the ice maker with Service Test 57.

Service Test - 57: Ice Maker Harvest

Press SW3 to activate a harvest sequence.
NOTE: Digit 1 displays the state of the sequence. Digit 2 displays the outcome of the sequence. Once initiated, the sequence cannot be exited.
Digit 1 (0 = heater and motor OFF, 1 = ice maker heater ON, 2 = motor rotating clockwise until it finds home position)
Digit 2 (0 = in progress, 1 = harvesting completed, 2 = harvesting not completed) Doors must be closed.
NOTE: “Harvesting not completed” does not exit the step, but indicates the timeout of 70 seconds has passed.

What do Digit 1 and Digit 2 display when you did Service Test - 57?

Did you remove the ice maker and check for obstructions in the ice maker? You have to do that first BEFORE doing SERVICE TEST 57.:)

Here's the ice maker for your model: W11294907 Icemaker

This video gives you the general idea of how to access/replace it:

Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Mike477

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Georgia
Jake,

Thanks for your help. Service Test 57 returns 02.

A little more detail on this issue - -
1) Ice maker stopped working several weeks ago.
2) Technical called. He replaced the two control boards that check to see if the ice bin is full.
3) Did not fix the problem so he returned and put the original control boards back in and refunded $ from original service call.
4) But on that call the tech did notice the temp of the refrigerator was too high. But did not have time to work on it.
5) We bought a thermometer which measured the temp at upper forties so this confirmed the temp issue.
6) Tech came back and found ice in back of inside. He defrosted and unclogged a very clogged drainage line.
7) Temp has been perfect since then. And he assumed ice maker would start working once the temp was correct.
8) But - Ice Maker still not working after about a week and getting the service test codes in this and previous posting.

My thoughts -
1) How do I check to make sure the ice maker is not obstructed? Need to remove the ice maker, true?
2) Seems like heck of a coincidence the ice maker goes bad and drain clogged at the same time. Although possible the higher temps put extra strain on the ice maker causing it to go bad?
3) I don't believe the tech had to take the ice maker out to install the two boards but if he did i suppose it is possible he did not connect all the power back to the ice maker. As it appears to just be totally 'dead'.

It looks like I'm headed for a new ice maker but interested in any thoughts you might have on the above. I'm not real handy with a screw driver but this appears to be a job I can do.

Thanks again for your thoughts and advice.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,843
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
1) How do I check to make sure the ice maker is not obstructed? Need to remove the ice maker, true?
Yes, you will need to just get access to the ice maker to check for obstructions per the video I posted the link to above.

2) Seems like heck of a coincidence the ice maker goes bad and drain clogged at the same time. Although possible the higher temps put extra strain on the ice maker causing it to go bad?
That is very true.

3) I don't believe the tech had to take the ice maker out to install the two boards but if he did i suppose it is possible he did not connect all the power back to the ice maker. As it appears to just be totally 'dead'.
No he didn't. The boards are located in the back of the refrigerator on the exterior back wall.

It looks like I'm headed for a new ice maker but interested in any thoughts you might have on the above. I'm not real handy with a screw driver but this appears to be a job I can do.
If you have fixed other things around your house, this will be no problem to fix, just watch the video to replace the ice maker.

Jake
 

Mike477

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Georgia
Jake,

One more question and I'm ready to take the 'DIY' plunge. As I type this the temp in the ice bin is 33. It has moved up there a couple of times since we have the overall temp issue fixed. My theory is the ice maker cools the ice bin to the 7 or so degrees it needs. So maybe that part of the ice maker is working on and off? Just seems weird that most of the time the ice bin is around 7 degrees but occasionally moves up around 33. (Worth noting that I see this higher temp in the ice bin as I am putting purchased ice in the ice bin just for convenience and when the temp goes up I'm seeing this purchased ice slightly melted.)

Thanks again for all your help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,843
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It should be a constant temperature of 10 degrees or lower at all times.

You have a ice box fan that may not be working properly.

Service Test - 36: Ice Box Fan
--->Check for fan operation. Control ice box fan by selecting SW3. Display the status on Temp display. (01 = ON, 02 = OFF). Verify airflow from the ice box fan.

Jake
 

Mike477

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Oct 16, 2021
Messages
5
Location
Georgia
Service test 36 returns 01 - ON. However, I don't really feel any airflow from the icebox fan vents.

It looks to me like the actual ice maker contains the cooler hardware that would provide the sub-freezing air for the ice bin. Blown in by the ice box fan which 'soft of' appears to be working. So I would think replacing the ice maker would solve that problem also. Is my thinking correct? Maybe I should replace both the fan and the ice maker? Thoughts?

Thanks again for your help I very much appreciate it.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
123,843
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Service test 36 returns 01 - ON. However, I don't really feel any airflow from the icebox fan vents.
Then it sounds like its not working properly.

Here's the ice box fan for your model(Video to get access/replace it is in the part link):
Fan Motor W10846539


It looks to me like the actual ice maker contains the cooler hardware that would provide the sub-freezing air for the ice bin.
No, the ice maker gets its cold air from the refrigerator evaporator. There is a air tunnel that cold air flows up to the ice maker and that ice box fan blows the cold air onto the ice maker.

So yes I'd order both the ice maker and ice box fan.

Jake
 

Adster

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Joined
Jul 7, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Sask
Same thing happened to my fridge (507ESS), it turned out to be the ice maker itself that needed replacing. I actually traced it to the faulty microswitch inside that detects the position of the shaft that rotates to pop the ice out, it's like a 2 cent switch but trying to find an exact replacement for that tiny thing was near impossible.

Note that for some reason when the ice maker wasn't working right it seemed to throw the whole fridge off with temperature swings, evaporator ice ups and the works. Replacing the ice maker fixed it all... for now... still think it's the worst appliance ever.
 

Mike477

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
5
Location
Georgia
Replaced the ice maker (but not the ice box fan) several days ago. Appears to have fixed the ice making problem. And the temp in both the ice box and refrigerator has been good. Replacement process worked just as described in the above video with two caveats - -

1) The new ice maker came with a sensor installed so did not have to use the existing sensor
2) Video make no mention of turning off the water to the refrigerator

Thanks Jake for your help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,843
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent Mike, glad to hear the new ice maker fixed it.(y)

You don't have to turn the water off before you replace the ice maker, no water can come out of the water inlet valve unless the ice maker calls for the water to come out.:)

Thanks for the update!

I'm closing this thread as FIXED.

Same thing happened to my fridge (507ESS), it turned out to be the ice maker itself that needed replacing. I actually traced it to the faulty microswitch inside that detects the position of the shaft that rotates to pop the ice out, it's like a 2 cent switch but trying to find an exact replacement for that tiny thing was near impossible.

Note that for some reason when the ice maker wasn't working right it seemed to throw the whole fridge off with temperature swings, evaporator ice ups and the works. Replacing the ice maker fixed it all... for now... still think it's the worst appliance ever.
Glad to hear the new ice maker fixed yours too Adster.(y)

Jake
 
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