• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

FIXED KitchenAid Refrigerator KSRA25ILSS01 - Appreciate your thoughts on why my Ice Maker loses power when cold

Pjrs

Premium Member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Washington State
Model Number
KSRA25ILSS01
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
Hoping someone may have an idea on this one...I have the typical ice maker made by whirlpool and It stopped making ice so I did some testing on it...
Resistance
L-H = 72.7
L-M = 77.0
V-N = 175.0

Volts
L & N = 0 V
T & H = 0 V
L & V = 0 V

With the ice maker removed I tested the wiring at female connector that connects to the ice maker.
W & B = 95V
B & G = 95V

So I came to the conclusion that the motor was bad and replaced it with a new Module Motor. I connected everything back up and did some checks

L & N = 95V
T & H = 95V
L & V = 95V

Put the unit back into the freezer and sat down waiting for the first drop of ice cubes. Sadly nothing was happening. Curious I pulled the ice maker from its mount and did a multimeter test while still connected.

L & N = 0V
T & H = 0V
L & V = 0v

I then ran a continuity test on the ice maker harness thinking there maybe a break in the wiring harness. All wires showed continuity between the two ends.

By this time the ice maker warmed up and thinking I had not made a proper connection re-connected it. I then performed a multimeter test and once again saw power at the various test points. Waited 15 minutes of being in the freezer and ran a multimeter test and the unit had no power again all readings were 0.

Did it one more time once the unit warmed up and reconnected power was coming to the ice make after 10 - 15 mins no power at the unit.

Really appreciate any thoughts on what could be causing the ice maker to shut down when it gets cold.

Pj
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,019
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hi Pj, Ok, lets do the optics check:

Step#1: Open the freezer and view the status led

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The flapper door on the emitter is blocking the beam or the optics are faultly.


Step#2: Press the emitter flapper to unblock the optics beam

(STATUS LED)

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED)

POSSIBLE CAUSES: The optics are faulty. Replace the emitter and receiver boards.

If the LED is on steady: The optics are working properly.

Here are the boards you can order, they come together in 1 kit with instructions:
W10757851 Ice Level Power Control Board Kit


Jake
 

Pjrs

Premium Member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Washington State
Hi Jake,

First thanks for the quick reply it is sincerely appreciated.

Optic test ran exactly as described...
Step 1 - 2 flashes 1 second
Step 2 - Closed the flapper and constant red light

A side thought I was wondering if it could be the Thermostat hidden in the the ice maker ? The reason being it seems to be good when it is warm and cuts out when cold.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,019
Location
Redmond, Oregon
The reason being it seems to be good when it is warm and cuts out when cold.
Nope, that's not it. Read this:
Several of the posts indicated measuring a low(35 to 96 VAC) voltage at the input to the motor control between points “L” & “N ”or between the input connector white and black wires. Since logic would dictate that this input voltage to the control motor must be 115VAC for it to operate that this is a problem. Since this input is from the optics receiver board the problem must lie within the board and it is defective. This is not the case and THIS VOLTAGE IS NORMAL AND CORRECT. It is a monitor voltage and is always present (except during a harvest). I came to the same wrong conclusion.

A SIMPLE TEST: Remove the receiver PCB and remove its 8 pin connector. Jumper pins 3 and 4(number one is at the bottom). A paperclip works well but remember this is HOT!! Turn off power (unplug) first or make sure the paper clip is taped where you touch it. This connects the 115VAC input directly to the motor control. This bypasses the optics circuit completely and if all else is working properly it will produce ice as fast as it will freeze. If it makes ice with the jumper, but not with the PCB installed then the problem probably lies in the circuit boards. If it does not work with the jumper the problem probably lies in the ice maker itself.

What position is the ice maker ejector fingers pointing currently right now? At you? down in the tray? Straight up?

Normal would be pointing at you or slightly above you. If yours is not, then its your ice maker that's bad.

Here's the ice maker for your model, see how the ejector arm fingers should be pointing right at you?
Ice Maker Assembly 2198597


Here's the ice maker for your model you can order:
2198597 Complete Icemaker Assembly (8 Cube)


Jake
 

Pjrs

Premium Member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Washington State
The fingers are pointing slightly above me. If 3 o'clock is level with unit I would say it is at the 2 o'clock range.

I know seem to have power to the unit even after it is cold.

I decided to run a Harvest Cycle by jumping T&H and for the first time ever I was able to get into harvest mode. ! :) (Hey have to celebrate the small accomplishments!) LOL

It went through the whole cycle however when it came to refilling of the water it only ran for approx a second or two max and then stopped. Rough guesstimate was maybe a tablespoon of water poured into the container I had under the black tube. When it did run the water was flowing pretty good.

I went to the Ice Maker and took a resistance reading on V & N and received 174

I then went into the back and was able to using my mouth blow through the line with no issues.

While the fridge was pulled out I tested the Water Inlet Valve direct. The solenoid, which had the tube going to the freezer read 174 exactly as at the ice maker.

Out of interest I then took a reading on the water dispenser and it showed 350. However, I remember reading they could be different readings.


Pj
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,019
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Ok, put your multimeter on AC volts and pull the refrigerator out from the wall, remove the lower back access panel, then remove the electrical connector to the water inlet valve (ice maker solenoid side) then put your meter probes in the electrical connector and cycle the ice maker again and watch your meter for 120 volts towards the end of the cycle, you should get about 7 seconds of water fill time, thus your meter should say 120 volts for 7 seconds.

If your meter only says its only getting 120 volts for a second or two, then the problem is the ice maker itself, because the fill circuit in the ice maker has worn out.

Here's the ice maker for your model you can order:
2198597 Complete Icemaker Assembly (8 Cube)


Jake
 

Pjrs

Premium Member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Washington State
Hi Jake,

A belated Happy New Year and all the best to you and your family.

I was able to pull the electrical connector off the plug from the water inlet valve on the ice maker side and set up the multimeter. I then jump T&H and plugged the unit back in, around the 2 minute mark the meter jumped to 117V for approximately 7 seconds.

Before reconnecting everything I retested for continuity on the solenoid ice maker side and received 174

Still no water dispensing into the ice maker however the water dispenser is working albeit sometimes a little slow.

When I do pour water into the ice maker mold it freezes and ejects with no problem.

Could it be a
mechanical failure on the Water inlet valve?
A plug somewhere? (I did have a join on the back of the fridge and was able to separate the connector and blow through the top half of the tubing going into the freezer with no issues.
When I did jump L&V I heard a click but no water came out.

Thoughts?

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,019
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Happy New Year!

Still no water dispensing into the ice maker however the water dispenser is working albeit sometimes a little slow.
Lets first check your water pressure to the refrigerator.

I always pull the refrigerator out from the wall, then turn the water off, remove the water supply line, then get a bucket or container to catch water in to test the water pressure from the water supply line into a bucket, then turn the water supply line on, and it should have good water pressure force coming out in the bucket or container.

If you do have good water pressure, then if you haven't replaced your water filter in a long time, that will cause slow water fill at the dispenser and SLOW/NO WATER at the ice maker too.

Here's the water filter for your model:
EDR5RXD1 FILTER5, Single, Quarter-Turn


If your water filter is new and water pressure is good, then it has to be a bad water inlet valve, that's all it can be at this point.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
Water Inlet Valve W10408179


Jake
 

Pjrs

Premium Member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Washington State
Hi Jake,

Been a few weeks and finally able to get back to the issue on the Ice maker and not getting water.

To recap
-: No water was coming into the ice maker mold.
-: I could make ice when pouring 7 ounces of water into the ice maker mold
-: I could hear the Water Inlet Valve kick in and even with a multi meter saw the draw on the water inlet valve as the ice maker completed its cycle.

So as you indicated it would either be an issue with the supply line - and having a Saddle Valve and hearing of the failures I tested the line and the stream was consistent. Supply line checked out.

Now it came to either a block somewhere or the water valve.

Rolling the dice I replaced the Water Inlet Valve even though the continuity test worked out.

Within minutes of plugging it back in it went through its cycle and I could hear water starting to pour into the Ice Maker Mold.

Now what was interesting is I had the original Water Inlet Valve on the fridge and as you can see by the pics it was a bit longer than the new ones today. When I unscrewed the front part it had a metal screen in the unit. I pulled the screen out it was completely plugged, I could barely see light through it. I never re-tested the Water Inlet Valve after popping the screen out.

Thought I would pass along for you and your readers how I got it to work. While I doubt you will see too many more issues like this as the fridge is older and the new Water Inlet Valves don’t come with the screens I thought you would like to know the issue with mine.

Finally, I wanted to thank you for all your assistance and I will definitely make a donation for your time and guidance.

Pj.
 

Attachments

  • 14037CC4-D762-4379-A9D8-FCF6173547C6.jpeg
    14037CC4-D762-4379-A9D8-FCF6173547C6.jpeg
    400.4 KB · Views: 28
  • 3AC5921F-1131-436D-824E-C46A36BE9BF9.jpeg
    3AC5921F-1131-436D-824E-C46A36BE9BF9.jpeg
    220.9 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
129,019
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Excellent Pj, glad to hear the new water inlet valve fixed it.(y)

Yes, on the older ones they have a screen, I completely forgot about that, my bad, as all the new ones basically don't have that screen anymore.

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
Top