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KitchenAid Refrigerator KSRJ25FXMS04 zero cooling/fan-compressor running

Johnnewholland

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2023
Messages
9
Location
99006
Model Number
KSRJ25FXMS04
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Fridge operated at sellers house. Carefully hauled upright, if that matters. No cooling but the evap fan running, compressor tests good at pins and hums 'normal'. "Key Map Code Chart", said to be under top of right or left door hinge not there, to access 'error codes' or, mode testing. Best 'Online' key we found, skips 10, 12, 13, 14, 19, 25, 27, 28, 30, 32, 35, 36,40, 41, (42 not used) (47-55), 57,61, 62, 73 not listed)

Did find a bad compressor two prong capacitor, replaced. Compressor runs while evaporator fan runs. Lights all work. Immaculate interior-exterior. Every test works, saying 'good,' except for one that indicates "Open" (Defrost Heater Test/ bimetal open) but with no accurate key for codes, we are lost. Well, we're lost to begin with but you can't have everything.

We think we're missing the correct overall 'Mode Chart' or just the knowledge of exactly how to run a full test. Compressor gets warm on top, but can keep hand on it. It vibrates like most we've known, though that obviously isn't tell all. Small exit line warms some, large line seems room temp. It's in a rather cold garage, much colder than a house, running 35 to 50 degrees at this time.

We are curious of this, 'Display Mode' or what would be a disabled fridge for a floor model for sales. Perhaps we're missing something there? Read blog extensively and incredibly, could not find this model. We know it's thankless , but any suggestions?
 
If the compressor is warm and vibrating, then its running. Since the compressor is running and you get NO COOLING at all, then you have a sealed system problem.

Its odd that it was cooling at the sellers house, but not at yours. Was the ambient temperature higher at the sellers house?
 
Yes, it was cooling at sellers house. Working normal. No leaks, nothing. Ambient temp was higher at sellers house, like typical household temperature. Wondering, if we raised ambient temp in this cold shop ( about 40 degrees ) and fridge has been at 35 to 40 degrees now for a long time at least weeks., could that make any difference?
Also wonder about the correct error code testing, if this model has a specific code key for itself and if one could be had?
Like anyone, sure don't want to write it off, if there's anything we may be missing.
How many times have you been asked, "Got any ideas"?
 
Wondering, if we raised ambient temp in this cold shop ( about 40 degrees ) and fridge has been at 35 to 40 degrees now for a long time at least weeks., could that make any difference?
Yes, because it needs to be at a higher ambient temperature to work properly. Try more above 50 F.
 
Ok sounds good.:)
 
We heated the refrigerator most of a day and find no change. We do note series of clicks varying from 2 to 4 clicks at each plug in, unplug. Like it can't decide to just turn on. While compressor seemingly struggles to kick full on it might on one occasion create cold in thin pipe leading from compressor, but just seems to 'give up' leading back to warm pipe later. Again, the room remains below 50 degrees, but had tarped fridge and heated fridge full up we felt, though on cold concrete. Maybe get it warmer yet?? It just seems it isn't getting the 'Whoomp' it needs to start up. Compressor runs smooth, quiet but heats up on top. You can hold bare hand on it but it's warm.
 
Ok, then that means you have a sealed system problem.

Can you get your money back that you paid for it?
 
No, we can get no refund. What are your thoughts on a 'Locked compressor", could that yet be possible? We were thinking 'maybe', since it did run before it was moved and the compressor then, would have had to fail during transport, or when we first plugged it in. We did find a bad capacitor at compressor, replaced it and wonder if perhaps the unit ( pig tail) that plugs into the new replaced capacitor might be bad, as local guy says that pigtail can't be tested. I mean specifically the unit immediately behind the capacitor that meets at the compressor. Fooling with it, at one point the refrigerator flap opened and closed for no apparent reason, if that means anything?
 
If the compressor was locked it would not be running at all, it would make a distinct hum sound and not start nor run.

Fooling with it, at one point the refrigerator flap opened and closed for no apparent reason, if that means anything?
Nope.
 
Well, okay, we give up. The troubling part is the fridge ran. We put it in back of a pickup, very carefully. Strapped it up right, avoided any bumps, got it home and carefully unloaded it. We let it sit overnight ( though real cold) and now it doesn't run.
It's just frustrating wondering what went wrong.
 
I understand how you feel, its a mystery to me as well.
 
Well, I thank you for all the thought you've put into it and the time. I think I'm more let down that the manufacturing systems used these days allow for destruction of perfectly capable machines ( Large side by side Refrigerators in immaculate condition otherwise) to be thrown in the garbage dumps. I see 60 year old refrigerators at Lake Resorts on front porches with cold bait in them, exposed to all weather, just clunking along and stand in wonder. Yet a mint condition 'Kitchen Aid' in a climate controlled house a few years old and over $2000 dollars, is a wreck before the sheen wears off.
 
I think I'm more let down that the manufacturing systems used these days allow for destruction of perfectly capable machines
I couldn't agree more!
 
We've kept messing with the fridge. When am metered we' re getting voltage readings from lowest frame strut to compressor pipe and other parts, much like stray voltage found on lots of devices. We range from 1 to 2 volts along the framework base. Is this normal?
 
No, Not that I'm aware of.
 
We were thinking perhaps that's a condition of an internal failure of compressors. We are certain this condition exists. Do you think this stray voltage might be related to an internal failure or some other issue, like perhaps something touching that shouldn't be? And thank you again for your patience.
 
I've not run into that before, so I can't really say.
 

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