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FIXED Kitchenaid Refrigerator KSRP25FNSS00 - No ice

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Belegedhel

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Joined
Jun 15, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Houston, TX
Model Number
KSRP25FNSS00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
Fridge suddenly stopped making ice (as they do).

My mother in law was cleaning her fridge, and inadvertently switched the ice maker to the “off” position. Naturally a day or so later, she was confused about not having any ice. So I went to her and checked it out, found the switch in the wrong position, and gave it a flip—easiest repair ever I thought, (antagonizing the Appliance Gods).

Days passed, and no ice appeared. So I visited again. Installed a fresh water filter, confirmed that the water spewing from the water dispenser had plenty of pressure, noted that no water was being delivered to the ice maker. Checked the optical sensor. Two blinks and a pause if the path was not clear, steady red light when the path was clear. Scratched my head a bit…

I referred to the troubleshooting diagram below and went through the checks.

Found that with the optical sensor jumped, I got 120 V across L-N. The clockworks of the ice making assembly ticked right along, but water never came pouring into the assembly (maybe I didn’t wait long enough).

The water valve was reading about 260 ohms.

When the optical sensor was not jumped but the path was clear, I only got 104 V from L-N. Replaced the sensor pair and got the exact same result. Found a burnt/darkened couple of electrodes on the original, but not sure whether that was damage or just some dark schmutz that got on the connection.

So here I am, scratching my head...Any advice?
 

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Two blinks and a pause if the path was not clear, steady red light when the path was clear. Scratched my head a bit…
Open the freezer door and check the status LED. If you see 2 Blinks followed by a 1 second delay-repeated: Tape the emitter door back so it doesn’t block the beam between the emitter and receiver. If the LED is on steady: Optics is good. 2 Blinks followed by a 1 second delay: Bad optics

whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10757851-ap5956767_01_l.jpg
 

Belegedhel

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Location
Houston, TX
Yes, I get two blinks and a pause if the optical path was not clear, steady red light when the path was clear (ie., flapper is depressed). That said, I only get 104v between terminals L and N on the icemaker itself when I have a steady light on the optical sensor. If I bypass the optical sensor, I get 120v, but did not notice water being dispensed to the ice maker.
 

rickgburton

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OK, bypass the optics temporarily and force cycle the ice maker. At the end of the harvest cycle is the fill cycle. Check for 120 VAC at the ice maker coil on the water valve. If you don't get any voltage at the valve, recheck at the ice maker across holes V and N. Your meter should indicate 120 VAC for about 7 seconds. Here's how to force cycle the IM.
R-IM T H.jpg


You'll probably need to replace the optic. First check the wire harness where the wires go thru the bottom freezer door hinge. We've seen a lot of broken or almost broken wires in that spot.



refrigerator door wires.jpg
refrigerator door wires broken.jpg


I made that image on bypassing the optics in 2008 or 9. I'm glad it's still being used. Cool!
30x28-smile 2.jpg
 
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Belegedhel

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Joined
Jun 15, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Houston, TX
Ok, I got back out to my mother in law's house to look at her fridge. I tried shorting points T and H to initiate a harvest cycle, but nothing happened (yes, the optical switch was bypassed at the time). I think I managed to get the unit to do a full harvest cycle by unplugging/plugging in the machine, etc., and I watched the voltage at the water valve solenoid, and it never changed. So I am suspicious that the unit is not sending voltage to the valve. I pulled the ice maker and brought it home. Will try some bench tests...
 

Belegedhel

Premium Member
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Jun 15, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Houston, TX
Well, I took the ice maker apart, and it looks like the contacts that go to the heating element are melted and destroyed. Not sure where the grey wire wire used to be attached, but it kind of sprang loose when I took it apart as well. So I guess the next step will be to replace the assembly, and then go from there...

IMG_9496.jpg
IMG_9495.jpg
 

Jake

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Belegedhel

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Messages
17
Location
Houston, TX
So the next question is did the unit fail all by itself, or was it caused by something else? I would hate to install a brand new part only to have it melt like the original.
 

Jake

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It failed by itself. The contacts just wore out after years of use.

Jake
 

Belegedhel

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Messages
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Location
Houston, TX
Thanks for the help, y'all. Good news is that after the replacement of the ice maker module, we are back to making ice.
 
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