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Kitchenaid Refrigerator KSSC42QKS01 partially cooling

Cheetaspot

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Oakland, CA
Model Number
KSSC42QKS01
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
Hello, I am new to posting, but not new to this wonderful forum of amazing advice and instruction. So thank you to you all for being you!

Anyhow, our Kitchenaid kssc42qks01 started acting up about two weeks ago. We noticed the intermittent 3 beeps and discovered the fridge side was in the 50’s and the freezer side ranged between 0 and 6 degrees F. We ran diagnostics and received a 2 on number 3, 5 and 7, which indicated potential issues with the evaporator fan, “Evaporator Fan Motor is On at incorrect speed”, OR compressor issue, “Compressor is Off waiting for minimum (7 minute) Off delay”, OR bimetal / temp sensor issue “bimetal is open.”

We did notice the coils in the were frosted over with ice buildup on the sides and bottom and the blades on the evaporator fan spun freely to the touch.

We ordered and installed a new evaporator fan, motor and bimetal. We cleaned the dust from the condenser coils in the upper unit. We cleaned cleared out the ice from the freezer coils. We checked the defrost heater and it had the correct ohms as per the service manual. The new bimetal tested as “open,” which makes sense when everything is defrosted. We turned everything back on and let the frige sit unused for over 24 hours.

Nothing changed, except now the freezer could not get below 36 degrees and the fridge could not get below 55 degrees F.

We went into the top unit and con ohms and volts tests on the inverter and compressor. The three compressor pins tested equally at 7.8 ohms. While running, the inverter and control wires were within spec as well 3-6 volts DC red/red white wires and 120 volts on the black white wire. We attempted to measure the output for the inverter and got weird readings, but with no specs in the service manual, we were not sure if this really meant anything special. We also noticed that while the condenser coils were warm, the compressor itself was VERY hot to the touch and determined the inverter may be sending incorrect messages to the condenser motor (wishful thinking.)

We purchased and installed a new inverter. Let the frige sit for 48 hours and now the freezer side will not cool below 25 and the frige side will not cool below 52 degrees F. We also notice that while the condenser coils did heat up, after a few minutes they cooled down to slightly above room temperature and the condenser remains running and is still very hot to the touch. We also ran a diagnostic check and still get “2” on 3, 5 and 7 as before.

I think we are down to the control board or the compressor as our culprit at this point, with the compressor being the likely candidate.

Can anyone help? Any ideas?

We will opt for repair if possible as this frige will cost 10K to replace.

Thanks!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
44,295
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
with the compressor being the likely candidate.
I think you nailed it! Inverter compressors are extremely quiet and run at, or just above room temperature. Leave the machine running while you check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils. A partial frost pattern or no frost usually indicates a sealed system problem.
 

Cheetaspot

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Oakland, CA
Here is an image of the freezer evaporator coils after over 48 hours of new inverter and no opening the freezer at all and reaching a freezer temp of 24 degrees F.

I had two other thoughts. While we did initially replace the evaporator fan and bimetal, we only tested the bimetal with our multi meter and it read as open, which makes sense. We did not test the wires to or in the new fan motor.

I notice when I run the diagnostics, the evaporator fan motor is still showing a (02) “Evaporator fan is on at incorrect speed.” I also notice the evaporator fan is not spinning when the diagnostic is run.

Also, when I open the freezer door and hold the freezer door switch closed, the evaporator fan will not spin and the condenser is running while I have the door open. I thought the evaporator fan is supposed to be spinning when the condenser is running, in theory to blow the cold air through the freezer and into the frige compartment via the Air Door?

BTW, I can “hear” the air door running during the diagnostic and it does indicate a (01) “Air door fully open,” which I assume means the Air Door is all good.

Is it possible the evaporator fan is not getting the signal to “turn on”?

Does the door switch not only turn on the light when the door opens but also send a signal to the evaporator fan to turn off or on?

While we have the cover for the evaporator coils and fan off, we will test the ohms on the evaporator fan and freezer door switch and will update.

Yes, wishful thinking that this is NOT the compressor or a leak in the system.
image.jpg
 

Cheetaspot

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Oakland, CA
Another update….

We tested the yellow and white wires to the evaporator new fan motor while the frige was running and condenser running. We are supposed to get 5 - 17 volts DC. We got barely 1 volt or nothing. Interestingly, when the frige gave the “three beep” signal indicating high temp as we were testing the wires, suddenly the voltage read 12 volts DC for approximately 2 seconds, then back to nothing.

We tested the voltage ”into” the defrost heater with frige running and got little to no voltage. However when we turned off the fridge and did an ohms test on the heater it was in spec as per the service manual at 20 ohms.

We also tested the bimetal and it was “closed” which makes sense due to the frost.

We are beginning to wishfully suspect the control board as the problem as it appears there may be no electrical signal to the evaporator fan to turn on and possibly no signal to the defrost heater to turn on as well.

We are in the process of gaining access to the control board to run electrical tests as per the service manual and will keep you updated.,,,,,
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
44,295
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Is it possible the evaporator fan is not getting the signal to “turn on”?
Yes, it's possible. Locate the P7 connector on the board and measure the voltage in the back of the connector on P7-5 (YL/RD) and P7-9 (WH/VT) You're looking for 12 VDC.
Does the door switch not only turn on the light
That's correct. The evaporator fan doesn't use the door switch.
Yes, wishful thinking that this is NOT the compressor or a leak in the system.
OK, it might look like a partial frost pattern but when I zoom in I see frost on all the coils. That's the frost pattern of no air flow. Replace the board, defrost the evaporator and put the cover back on and you're done!
whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10823805-ap5999124_01_l.jpg
 
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