• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake

KITCHENAID SUPERBA model KBMC140HSS03 - "DOOR" error

WTWN

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2014
Messages
9
Location
Connecticut
Model Number
KBMC140HSS03
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Getting "DOOR" error on display on pressing start. So I thought it was the door latch and now created a mess:

1) The microwave door has two plastic black latches (hook shaped) that somehow latch onto a white receiver. Of course, I had to pry around and pushed both white receivers and they rotated backwards. Now the door won't latch.

2) I have searched the internet high and low looking for how to disassemble instructions for this particular model to no avail. I have read that a common problem is a buss 20 amp fuse and found it listed as part 27 on a parts diagram. Does anyone know how I go about taking this monster apart? Any help deeply appreciated.
 
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rickgburton

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Recheck your model number for me. I can't get anything to come up with that one. Can you take a couple pictures of the "black latches" and "white receivers" then post them here?
 

WTWN

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Messages
9
Location
Connecticut
My error...correct model #: KBMC140HSS03.

Here are a few photos. The door latch receiver (white) was pushed back into the recess. This was my fault and not the cause for the "DOOR" error message. I thought the receiver was stuck and pried at it with a screwdriver. Trying to find dismantle instructions so that I can get to the 20 amp fuse (so I'm told). Any help deeply appreciated!

IMG_1275.jpg IMG_1276.jpg IMG_1277.jpg IMG_1278.jpg
 

rickgburton

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OK, Open the door and remove the two side trims (one screw on each side). Then remove the two cabinet mounting screws (one on each side).
KBMC140-1.jpg

Remove the 2 control panel screws. Pull the bottom of the control panel out and lift it off the bracket. Disconnect the wire connectors and set the panel aside.
KBMC140-2.jpg

Remove the upper and lower air vents
KBMC140-3.jpg

Remove the 2 lower microwave bracket screws and slide the microwave out about 4" and disconnect the two red load wires from the light power supply, the six pin connector, and the green ground wire.
KBMC140-5.jpg

Slide the plastic grommet and microwave out of the oven cabinet and set the oven on your work space. From here you can access and test the primary and monitor microswitch on the right side and the secondary microswitch on the left side. You may need to remove the side panel on the left (6 screws). When you reinstall the oven , slide it straight in so the two alignment screws go into the holes in the back of the oven cabinet.
KBMC140-6.jpg
 

WTWN

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Location
Connecticut
Rick - Much appreciated! I will try your step-by-step instructions this coming weekend. Is there a 20 amp fuse (location) that you are aware of? I will try my best with the microswitches. I found a few old posts referencing a bad 20 amp fuse as the culprit for the "DOOR" error message, if not the door hinges.
 

rickgburton

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The door error is most likely a door switch. If the 20 amp fuse was bad, the unit would be dead. Once you reset the door latch assembly so the door will close, check the microswitches for continuity by opening and closing the door.
 

WTWN

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Messages
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Location
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Rick - What a mess dismantling this beast! Your photos are not exactly what I have. Nonetheless, I was able to accomplish the following:

Facing the microwave
1) My right - Removed 2 layers of sheet metal (one layer must be mounting box) and was able to get to a door switch. I was able to reset the plastic rocker (I had previously pushed it inward with a screwdriver). This plastic assembly has 2 switches on it. One on each side of the assembly. Each switch has 3 leads. I removed all leads and then removed both switches. I tested each switch for continuity. Testing for both closed and open circuit per switch. Both switches tested fine.

2) left side - I found a single switch on the door latch assembly. Tested it and no short found.

3) tested both sides with door shut and all switches tested fine.

Still getting dreaded “DOOR” message.

Probably time to move on but I hate having to replace the unit. Yes it’s over 10 years old but was hardly used.
 

WTWN

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Messages
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Location
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C0DC1579-9C03-4B45-A159-69CB810E91C7.jpg
869E1CAB-536F-48E0-9276-A632CC7E2F39.jpg
29C83669-4F0D-4FF5-A1BF-98D397014817.jpg
The inline fuse tests fine for continuity
Is there a fuse elsewhere? Thanks for your patience.
 

rickgburton

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If the door switches check good, the control board is faulty. Unfortunately it's been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available: WP8302345 Electronic Control Board
 

WTWN

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As I figured. What drove me crazy is that the parts manuals for this specific model shows part labeled 27 as a 20 amp replaceable fuse. From the spec sheet no way of easily determining its location...I couldn’t find it.
 

rickgburton

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....as a 20 amp replaceable fuse. ...I couldn’t find it.
The 20 amp fuse is a line fuse. If it was open the machine would be dead. It should be located next to the High Voltage capacitor.

I found a picture:
Snapshot_2.jpg
 

WTWN

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Messages
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Location
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Thanks Rick! The picture sure did help. I removed the 20A buss fuse and sure enough it was bad..no continuity. The microwave now shows clock and beeps 3 times when some keys are pressed. Looks like it was a blown fuse and a shorted circuit board or keypad membrane. I found a seller on eBay that has the circuit board with a 30 day return policy if it doesn’t work. I may just give it one last chance!
 
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