FIXED KRFF507ESS00 Defrosting issue

Status
Not open for further replies.

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,772
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK, go back to test #7 and change the defrost mode from ADC (01) to Basic 8 hr (02). Then go to service test #38 Forced Defrost and set to Lo (long defrost) and exit service mode. Check to see if the defrost heater turned on. If it doesn't turn on check for 120 VAC at the heater. Voltage correct= replace defrost heater. Voltage incorrect= replace control board.
 

Surf579

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
73
Location
New York
You do realize it’s the first time I am ever doing this test and I’ll be not sure what I’m doing , just bare with me. I do appreciate your help
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,772
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Take your time. Read the service test instructions all the way through before starting. There's nothing difficult to do. If you have any questions, just ask. I'll boil it down where we're at so far so you don't get confused. Basically your defrost cycle wasn't turning on so we're checking the defrost system components. The defrost system consists of defrost heater, defrost thermostat and the control board. The defrost thermostat (bi-metal) must be closed before the defrost heater will turn on. Test #6 will tell you if the thermostat is open or closed. It must be closed (01).

Test #7 tells you what defrost mode you're in. According to the test results your machine is set to Adaptive Defrost Control (01). The machine will start a defrost cycle after the compressor has 8 hours of run time which can take between 9 and 96 hours. Use switch #3 on the UI to change the defrost cycle from 01-ADC to 02- Basic 8 hr. The defrost cycle will start after every 8 hours. Go to test #38. The display will show OF. Use switch #3 on the UI to display Lo (long defrost). Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds (or unplug the refrigerator) to exit service mode. A defrost cycle will start immediately upon exiting service mode. There's a couple ways to check if the defrost heater is on.

1- Listen for the water drops to sizzle as they hit the defrost heater.
2- Put your hand on the back wall near the bottom and you can feel the heat from the heater.
3- Remove the back wall and actually see if the heater is on
4- Use an amp meter on one of the wires in the power cord. (2 amps or higher= heater on. Less than 1 amp =heater off)

The defrost heater is like a light bulb. It's either good or bad. If the defrost heater is on, don't order a control board yet. Changing from ADC to Basic 8 hr may have fixed it. If the heater is not on you'll need to remove the back wall and check the heater for continuity. Continuity= replace the control board. No continuity= replace the heater.

2 important points to remember-

1- If the evaporator is completely frosted over you must first defrost it and remove all the frost.
2- Remember we're working from a tech sheet for a different model and we're assuming the service tests are the same.

WP12729128 Heater
whirlpool-heater-evap-33bm-wp12729128-ap6005557_01_m.jpg

Control board in stock here: W10807590
 

Surf579

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
73
Location
New York
Ok I know it been awhile had to wait till insurance kicked in the guy put a new pcb board and a harness that does the sensor and thermostat and something else and also the heating patch he had also ordered the heating rod you posted here but he said that he dont know why they put for there but he didn’t see it and most be for the lower evap I believe he said there were 2.

He ordered a ice machine for the ice because the ice was working when it wanted Ok. So the ice was coming out a day and a half later and filled up but it is not keeping it frozen in the bin It melts at times then it is fine and the same thing when it wants to. I haven’t seen ice on the evap it has been a week.

So that is where I’m at, He is coming back tomorrow to look again and said that the ice problem could be the compressor so I a little weary about that because it would be the rest if freezer and fridge be a problem to like the ice.

Anyway for the people that have that issue with the evap. That’s where I’m at , if that can help you that would be nice. Sorry took so long But had to wait for insurance.
 

westb101

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Louisiana
Thank you!

The combined changes recommended in this thread from rickgburton and FirstDue have solved the chronic refrigerator area evaporator icing problem. Once the ice was removed from the evaporator, it took the combined moving of the clamp-on thermistor and resetting the defrost cycle from ADC mode to a forced long duration defrost every 8 hours.

This common problem with the KitchenAid model KRFF507ESS00 bottom mount French door refrigerator has resulted in so many complaints to the Original Equipment Manufacturer that this very expensive (circa. $3600) refrigerator has been labeled as a ‘Lemon’. Rightfully so for the thousands who spent so much only to be forced into manually defrosting the refrigerator zone evaporator every 4 to 6 weeks by dismantling to access the iced evaporator whilst suffering from erratic temperature control all the while. Until now.
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
3B3FCE19-4ADC-4F03-B70F-1D3F95EF6B18.jpgGotta add to this thread... stupid question: how do you remove the "H” shaped
piece of plastic that blocks the removal of the rear cover? This holds the lower glass shelf. It appears trapped by the sides in the front; the rear is loose as shown in the pic. And after removing the two screws for the evaporator cover, the cover is still firmly stuck. Does the top air channel that runs up/down in the center/rear need to be removed first? Are there clips I dont see or is it just stuck due to ice buildup beneath? I’ve hot a heat gun running now on low to defrost through the plastic cover but it will be slow going.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,772
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Remove 2, ¼” hex head screws (one on the left side and one on the right side) and release the 2 locking tabs to remove the deli UI front cover.
Snapshot_1.jpg

Remove the 2, ¼” hex head screws on the bottom of the front cover and separate the deli user interface control board.
Snapshot_2.jpg

Remove side plate by lifting the front and pulling forward off of tabs.
Snapshot_3.jpg

Remove supports.

Snapshot_4.jpg
 

westb101

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Louisiana
Yes, further to the excellent details posted of removing the H shaped piece you referred to, the top air channel that runs up/down at the rear above the evaporator cover also needs to be removed. To do that, first the top roof panel that covers the water filter must be removed. Perhaps rickgburton also has the detailed pics of those steps.
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
Thanks Rick for the quick reply. Referring to the pic below:
1864CABD-C6F9-4ECC-AABE-C51A924A8146.jpeg
My fridge has an L-shaped plastic cover over the tab and screw... one each side. I twisted and pryed but couldn’t get it off. What’s that trick to remove that?
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
28A3B219-61A5-477F-B11C-3226C783EE46.jpeg
BE868E76-E51E-43E6-B488-4681D1F255C1.jpg
I was unable to move the thermistor but I did change both defrost program settings referenced in test #7 and test #38. My refrigerator is model # KRFF507EWH (special build white model) and appears to have identical programming to the KRFF707xxx tech sheet referenced in this thread.

Twelve hours later my frig temp is 36F and the ice maker is starting to make cubes. Previous to my manual defrost the temp was 50F. Time will tell if the defrost and reprogramming alone fixes the problem long term. I’ll keep posting occasionally over the next month.
 
Last edited:

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
Apparently the factory recommended solution is as simple as relocating the defrost sensor clipped on to the freon tubing. Relocate from the top tube, down 3 inches right to the output of the evaporator tube - simple clip on, no parts, no soldering. apparently the temperature drop in that 5 inches of tubing was too much and the defrost cycle wasn't kicking in, especially with high humidity and lots of door opening.
Just another thought... is the relocation of the defrost sensor (thermistor) even necessary if the defrost cycle software is changed per the programmable step #7 (01-ADC to 02- Basic 8 hr: the defrost cycle starts every 8hr independent upon compressor time)?
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
Another question, Test #38 is a one time event, correct? It shuts off coolant from passing through the evaporator for a period of time and because this Frig has no defrost heater, it’s as if the Frig is unplugged. Do we know how much time a long forced defrost lasts? And after Test #38 is completed does the long defrost time continue through subsequent automatic defrost cycles or does it revert back to a shorter, nominal value?
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
Thanks Rick,

Do you have any tip in removing the L-shaped plastic piece that covers the screw and tab that captures the front of the low H-Frame glass support?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,772
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Remove the rail caps by inserting a wide straight blade between the cap and the rail approximately 1” from the bottom of the cap and twist. There are 4 tabs securing the cap to the rail, 2 on the outside of the cap and 2 on the inside between the cap and the liner. A loud snap may be heard when the tabs release. Repeat process on the opposite side.
cap.jpg
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
Thanks for the tip Rick.

I'm going to closely watch frig temperature and ice build-up before I go the route of another emptying and teardown to move the thermistor. I'm hoping that the Test #7 parameter change (defrost every 8hr regardless of compressor run time) will fix the issue long term, given that my long defrost on Sunday probably only removed 1/2-2/3rds of the ice build-up underneath the rear plastic cover.

I'll occasionaly respond back here with short updates.
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
It's now been nearly 6 weeks and with a partial defrost and programming changes I've had no further frost build-up.
 

go-rebels

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
17
Location
SC
Temperature has crept up to 45F and frost is growing out the lower vent. I now need to disassemble and move the defrost sensor. The software change alone is not a permanent fix.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top