FIXED KRMF606ESS Freezer not cold enough, Ice Maker not working, questionable whether fridge is getting cold enough

[SMY]

Model Number

KRMF606ESS00

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

Tricky one here... Freezer set at -3F but not cooling enough to freeze and consequently (or not) Ice maker not working. Pretty sure refrigerator is not coming down to low enough temp either (set at 33F and running around 38-39F).
Ran diagnostics:

• FC and RC thermistor tests passed (Service test 01 and 02 = 01 pass),
• Verified both RC and FC evaporator fans function.
• Can hear compressor run and verified ramp up/down (Service test 05).
• Verified Condenser coil fan functioning.
• Service test 32 Ambient Thermistor = 01 pass
• Service test 39 RC Evaporator Thermistor = 01 pass
• Service test 77 Defrost Thermistor = 01 pass
• All door seals seem to be working well

I had just completed a defrost of RC evaporator coils that were frozen up as well as the FC evaporator compartment had a solid block of ice surrounding the thermistor and refrigerant tubes that enter the evaporator coils (but the FC evap coils themselves were not frozen over.). I think the freeze up might have been caused from my daughter leaving the freezer door open overnight a couple months ago (could humidity from that that also affect the RC evap coils?). This may or may not be the root cause , but point being that frozen evap coils are not the current cause of the cooling problem. Certainly the freeze up condition might also have been caused by the root cooling issue (and only exacerbated by the open freezer).

A couple of other side conditions that I don't think are related but will share in case:

1. right RC door switch is removed. I was having a door ajar alarm that I troubleshot to failed door switch. Have ordered a new one and will replace when it arrives. Appears the switch must operate NC mode because no alarm if I remove the switch completely and alarm if I put the bad switch in. As another aside, the FC door switch was not functioning either, but repaired (turns out there was block of ice in the switch cavity that the ice expansion cause the wires to disconnect from the switch. Removed the ice reconnected the switch cleared that up. I'm assuming the block of ice in switch cavity is associated with the same freezer door open incident which condensation pooled from the overnight thaw and then refroze when door was closed next morning? Otherwise, where could the water have come from?
2. Pantry door wire harness is removed. I found the harness wires were completely cut by the pantry door slides in several locations, a new one on order but did not reconnect the broken one. However, I believe I observed the cooling issues before removing this harness.

Thinking this suggests the root is either control board or closed system (e.g. low coolant pressure). Any help/pointers from the experts on this one?

 

[dashriprok]

You must have working door switches because the main electronic control board looks at how many times you open and close the doors to adjust the defrost cycle.

 

[SMY]

yes door switches working.... I forgot to add that I have also repositioned the Evaporator thermistor and ensured proper contact per service bulletin.

 

[SMY]

oh yeah, also forgot to add in that I have cleaned the condenser coils to see if that helped (blew dust out using air compressor), so can also rule out dirty condenser coils. From studying other similar threads starting to think it might have developed sealed system problem? I've taken the thing apart several times in last few days troubleshooting things. Think the last time it ran for almost 24 hours and when I took off the evaporator cover I only recall there being water and no frost. Wasn't sure if the expected frost pattern of a normal functioning unit would have melted before I got to it since it only ran less than 24 hours from a room temp start up. Took me at least 20 mins to take everything apart and get the evap cover off.

 

[Jake]

I think the freeze up might have been caused from my daughter leaving the freezer door open overnight a couple months ago (could humidity from that that also affect the RC evap coils?). This may or may not be the root cause , but point being that frozen evap coils are not the current cause of the cooling problem. Certainly the freeze up condition might also have been caused by the root cooling issue (and only exacerbated by the open freezer).

Make sure you completely defrost both the refrigerator and freezer evaporator coils, and make sure both evaporator fans are running, put the evaporator covers back in place, then I'd get a freezer thermometer and refrigerator thermometer and see what the temperatures is getting down to in the freezer and refrigerator sections.

Jake

 

[SMY]

oh yeah, also forgot to add in that I have cleaned the condenser coils to see if that helped (blew dust out using air compressor), so can also rule out dirty condenser coils. From studying other similar threads starting to think it might have developed sealed system problem? I've taken the thing apart several times in last few days troubleshooting things. Think the last time it ran for almost 24 hours and when I took off the evaporator cover I only recall there being water and no frost. Wasn't sure if the expected frost pattern of a normal functioning unit would have melted before I got to it since it only ran less than 24 hours from a room temp start up. Took me at least 20 mins to take everything apart and get the evap cover off.

Make sure you completely defrost both the refrigerator and freezer evaporator coils, and make sure both evaporator fans are running, put the evaporator covers back in place, then I'd get a freezer thermometer and refrigerator thermometer and see what the temperatures is getting down to in the freezer and refrigerator sections.

Jake

Yep, both have been completely defrosted. Confirmed both evap fans run, evap covers back in place. Fridge is running 39F but set to 33F and Freezer is running 32-33F but set to -5F. Has been running 60+ hours with minimal door openings.

 

[SMY]

I took apart (again) to install new pantry door wire harness and replace the evaporator drip pan that is bowed. Attached is pic of fresh food evap coils. Looks like they are starting to freeze up again already with ice forming on the tubes at either side of the coils :-(.

Btw, not sure how to remove the drip pan. Seems like it should slide out but not really disconnecting from the evaporator coil housing. The new drip pan kit did not come with installation instructions.

 

[SMY]

OK, found the Service pointer on the evaporator drain pan and have replaced that and replaced the broken wire harness on the deli drawer. Thoroughly defrosted again, Pantry (deli) drawer functioning now and whole system back online. Just need to figure out what is causing the lack of cooling and evaporator coil freeze up. Have a Whirlpool service tech scheduled for Wed (the soonest they can come out) under assumption that I am likely dealing with a sealed system issue of some sort. Open to any other suggestions before then.

 

[SMY]

Been 18 hours since last defrost and RC is 40F FC is 32F. Both Evap fans working, Compressor runs and Condenser fan working.

 

[Jake]

What is the temperature of the freezer right now?

Yes, you possibly have a sealed system problem, normal would be a thin layer of frost on ALL the evaporator coils from Top to Bottom. Make sure you put the evaporator cover back in place.

Look at the last photo below, where it says NORMAL FROST PATTERN.

 

[SMY]

Thanks Jake. Freezer is 29F right now. I did put Evap cover back in place. Quite a chore to disassemble the cabinet to remove the cover so not going to recheck again and assuming the same pattern from what I saw in photo yesterday morning will redevelop. Definitely did not look normal and showed beginnings of ice buildup. Seems like I've ruled out what I can do and need to wait for tech on Wed to check the sealed system.

 

[Jake]

Seems like I've ruled out what I can do and need to wait for tech on Wed to check the sealed system.

Yes, I agree.

Let us know if you could please.

Jake

 

[SMY]

Tech came out and said the RC thermistor was not in proper location or snug enough so he relocated and told to wait 24 hours. If that doesn't fix it (which I do not think it will but fingers crossed) the next step is to replace the RC Evap fan with thermistor (i.e. presumed bad sensor and that part comes with the fan).

He also offered the following diagnostic observations:

• Freezer wont cool properly if the Refrigerator isn't, so likely issue is the RC sensor causing problems with fridge which impacts freezer too. Fix fridge and freezer should function properly as well.
• Service Test 4 on 3 way valve suggested that valve working properly because he could hear freon entering the tubes when valve switched
• Diagnostic suggested freon load is ok because can see the evap coils frost up during the Service test 4. Protocol is if evap coils do not frost, then proceed to check coolant pressure (which he didn't need to do)
• Mentioned that there is a new recommended location for the thermistor that is different from Technical Service Pointer #: W11092686D. This is where he placed it.

It's been 6 hours and fridge is only 44F, will wait it out, but doesn't look promising. I'm tempted to order the Evap motor part now so I have it ASAP to get that next step out of the way but also wondering if that will be unnecessary expense. Is it possible the sensor could be bad even if the control board diagnostic is passing?

 

[SMY]

As expected, Fridge only at 40F. Guess I will replace the FC Evap Fan motor. Suspicious that will not fix it either and don't want to pay Service company fees for this next step when I can do the work and not convinced it is actually the problem. Will call them back if that doesn't fix it.

 

[Jake]

Freezer wont cool properly if the Refrigerator isn't

That is NOT TRUE.

The freezer evaporator coil should be covered in a thin layer of frost no matter what if the compressor is good.

See the NORMAL FROST PATTERN in post #10 above for the freezer evap. coil?

Did the tech even look at the freezer evap. coil at the frost pattern of it?

Jake

 

[SMY]

He did not look at the Freezer evap coil. They charged $120 diagnostic fee and if they need to come back on same issue within 30 days then no additional diagnostic fees, just parts and labor for follow-on work. Further, he said that next step is replace Evap fan motor on fridge and that would be the fix it if the sensor relocation didn't fix it. Probably around $250 for parts and labor (his commentary, not a quote).

Well, I am suspicious that won't fix it either and another $250 down the drain and another return call for continue the diagnostics (all the while we have no functional fridge/freezer).

So I have ordered the Evap fan motor and will replace that myself for total of $75 (part scheduled to come today). If that fixes it hooray! If not, will call them back with some feedback on their process.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good.

Here's the FRESH FOOD EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR for your model:
Evaporator Fan Motor W11087438


There is a video in the FRESH FOOD EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR part link that shows you how to access it.

How did the repair go?

Jake

 

[SMY]

New RC Evap fan motor did not fix the issue. Fridge still sitting at 42F and Freezer 30F.

 

[Jake]

That's very odd, must be a sealed system problem then.

You will need to contact that tech. to come back and see what's going on.

If it wasn't a KitchenAid tech, then Its best to contact KitchenAid to come out at 800-422-1230, then the KA tech can call the FACTORY HOTLINE from your house to investigate this problem.

Jake

 

[SMY]

Yes, it was a Kitchenaid tech from an authorized service partner that I scheduled through Kitchenaid website. I called back yesterday morning and they were going to have the original tech get in touch with me. Didn't happen. I did receive an unexpected automated phone message that a tech was on his way to my house and to have the machine ready. Nobody showed. Called back again this morning and the woman I spoke to was a bit confused and after reading the notes said she needed to refer the ticket to the Sealed System scheduling department since that is a whole different set of techs. So back in queue waiting for a call back. I'm a little frustrated in that I paid $120 for a diagnostic visit in which I intentionally included detailed troubleshooting and diagnostic information in the ticket request that suggested there might be a SS problem. Further to that, once I received confirmation of a scheduled appointment, I called them to review the ticket and point out the diagnostics already run to make sure they assigned to a SS qualified tech. Come to find out they didn't send the right tech for SS diagnostics so we go another week without progress. Had I not replaced the Evap Fan motor myself for $75, they would have been content sending same tech back and charging me another $250 to try that step before anything else.

I support having a qualified tech come to my house and do the work for me, but only when they are trustworthy on diagnosing the real problem and not just throwing my money at a protracted set of try and fail repair experiments because that is the easiest way for them to get in and out on a service call.