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KRMF706ESS01 Kitchenaid Freezer not cold PO error keeps beeping

Rick4310

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Waxahachie TX
Model Number
KRMF706ESS01
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
Kitchen Aid Model KRMF706ESS01 5 DOOR STAINLESS. 3 1/2 YEARS OLD. About 2 months ago the fan was making noise so I changed the refrigerator fan and then the freezer fan. The coils in the freezer were froze up So I defrosted them and reassembled it.
This weekend It started making the same noise while I was out of town.. I got home form work last night and the freezer was about 28 degrees. The fan isn't making noise so I figure its locked up with ice,
About 10:00 last night the refrig. statrted beeping and displaying PO.. I hit confirm and it would go away.. I read this can be caused by the freezer being warm.. Is there a way to prevent the freezer from frezzing up again?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
108,886
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
PO means Power Outage.

Did the power to your house go out last night?

Is it still 28 degrees in your freezer?

Pull your refrigerator out from the wall, then remove the lower back access panel then check to see if your compressor and condenser fan, that mounts next to the compressor, are running.

Is your evaporator coil in the freezer frosted up?

Look at these photos below:

Frost Patterns.jpg


Jake
 

Rick4310

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Feb 11, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Waxahachie TX
The coils in the freezer are what frosted up last time. I haven't been able to take it apart yet, but I presume thats what happened again from the sound it was making Sunday.
 

Jake

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Ok Rick, Three parts control the auto-defrost cycle. We do a process of Elimination to find the bad part.

Ohm test your defrost thermostat(WHILE ITS FROSTY) with a multimeter to check for continuity(unplug your refrigerator first). Normal ohm reading will be 0 ohms while its FROSTY. Unplug the refrigerator first before ohm testing both parts!

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model, it clips on the top of the evaporator coil:
WPW10165425 Bimetl-Def


If its not frosty, you will have to put it in a glass of ice water for at least 5 MINUTES before ohm testing it, watch this video:


If the defrost thermostat tests good, then ohm test your defrost heating element.

Here's the defrost heating element for your model:
Defrost Heater Assembly WP12729128


Watch this video to test it:

If both the defrost thermostat and defrost heating element OHM test fine then its your main control board that's bad.

Here's the main control board for your model:
WPW10675033 Cntrl-Elec


Jake
 
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Rick4310

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Feb 11, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Waxahachie TX
OK thanks,, I ordered the 1st 2 parts and will replace them ... If I have to tear it all a part I putting something in there... If that doesn't fix it then I'll try the board..
 

Jake

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Ok Rick, sounds good.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, your defrost heater ohm tests good.

Your defrost thermostat bi-metal should be located underneath that frost on right top side of your evaporator coil.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok Rick, take a photo of your evaporator coil so I can locate it.

Jake
 

Rick4310

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I’ll have to take it apart in a couple days. I had yesterday afternoon off to take it apart and at least get it to stop beeping
 

todd.nagle

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
3
Location
California
Hi All,

I am having the same issue as Rick with my KRMF706ESS01. I am trying to trouble shoot before concluding an issue with the control board.

Defrost Heater:
I did a continuity test the defrost coil. It passed (about 30 ohms).

Thermistor:
My understanding is this model uses this thermistor (W10316760). Unfortunately I can't get a hold of the tech sheet for the unit to confirm the reading of thermistor. I got a reading of 4600Ohms at 58% (used a laser temp gun).

Would I be looking to produce the same result as Jake posted above (video) with the thermostat?

Screen Shot 2020-02-27 at 4.42.57 PM.png


(My understanding this model does not use a bi-metal thermostat.)

Is there something else I should be testing before concluding the issue if with the control board?

Thank you.
Todd

(p.s. I am a bit of a noob so please excuse any incorrect terminology referenced.)
 

Jake

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Ok, I just located the defrost thermostat, it ONLY comes with the freezer evaporator fan motor assembly.

Here's the freezer evaporator fan motor assembly for your model with the defrost thermostat attached to it, Its white and skinny in color:
W11109595 Motor-Evap


Locate your tech sheet either under the top hinge cover or taped to the bottom of the machine. Enter service diagnostics mode and I believe test #38 is where you can set the forced defrost mode. (OF = no forced defrost, Sh = short defrost, Lo = long defrost).
Tech Sheet Locations.jpg


Jake
 

todd.nagle

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Messages
3
Location
California
Thanks Jake.

So here are some updates on my end. Hopefully this helps Rick too.

I found the tech sheet. It was under the fridge door hinge cover. Thanks for the tip - I was looking under the unit originally.

The tech sheet walks you through a series of diagnostic tests - 81 tests in fact. They are all controlled through the LED panel. Depressing SW1 (far left button) and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds initiates the diagnostic mode. (The LED panel must me in the unlocked mode to initiate the diagnostic mode.)

After going through a number of applicable tests, I determined that the thermostat and defrost thermistor are good. However, I discovered that I am only able to run a short, forced defrost cycle (denoted as "sh") and not a long, forced defrost cycle (Lo). I confirmed defrost heating coil does work - it heated up. It also passed an earlier continuity test. (The forced defrost cycles are done through step #38.)

You should be able to cycle through the three options of Off (Of), Short (Sh), and Long (Lo) defrost cycles by using the SW3 button. I am only seeing two options provided - Off and Short. Long is not provided as an option.

I am going to assume the tech sheet is correct and the unit is able to run a long defrost cycle. If so, why can't it? Secondly, does the unit's inability to run a long cycle indicate any issues (e.g. main control board)?

Phew! Any insight?

Thanks.
 

Jake

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Ok Todd, those are good questions that I was wondering myself, I don't have the answer to that.

As long as the defrost heater came on then that indicates your defrost thermistor and defrost heater are fine, so the only other part that it could be is the control board causing this problem.

I posted the control board link for this model in Post #4 above.

Jake
 

todd.nagle

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Feb 27, 2020
Messages
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Location
California
I appreciate the guidance Jake. Extremely helpful.

My Father-in-law (he’s a retired electrician) and I were thinking it must be the board too. We recently had a major black out. Although we shut off all the breakers prior to power resuming, we did get intermittent brown-out before things stabilized. Our guess is the board may have been damaged then.

This is a tremendous resource. Thanks for it.

I hope some of our situation‘s findings helps Rick with his
 

Jake

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Sounds good Todd, let us know how it goes after you replace the main control board. Make sure you unplug your refrigerator before you replace it.:)

Jake
 

aschmidt48

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
1
Location
Minnesota
Curious if replacing the main control board fixed the problem? I have the same model and have the same issue. I used this post to troubleshoot and I think my last step is to replace the board. Also, Jake, thank you for all of your troubleshooting tips above!
 
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