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FIXED KRSC503ESS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator ice maker not working

ToolingNinja

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Huntley, IL
Model Number
KRSC503ESS00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
The ice making in my fridge has stopped producing ice. The tray is empty (no water)


+I have removed the water filter from the fridge because my unit is fed with RO water which is already purified so it has no need to be filtered again.
+I have tested water flow the best I can (unsure how to truly pressure test the water). Filling a measuring cup from the water dispenser runs about 11-12 seconds to fill 1 cup (tech notes say it should be 10 seconds). If I fill from another spigot off the same supply it easily fills 1 cup is 8-9 seconds. This supply has been the same since the fridge was installed though and I just re-pressurized the tank to be sure the pressure was good.
+I've tried to run the diagnostics steps for 19/44/45 but I'm not sure I'm doing it right. The controls via the display are not intuitive at all. I'm supposed to be able to cycle through the stages/steps but the buttons don't seem to let me do that.

Not sure where to look or what to do here. Thoughts?

(using documents from the post here )
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,974
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Here's the tech. data sheet for your model that bigbuck posted from that thread you linked to: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PK8PBabPJIhy4XU8EPhomgb7lDGzKwhp

Page 1 -->SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS MODE

To enter service diagnostics mode, press SW1 + SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds, Release Both Buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator (note: the panel has to be illuminated and not locked first, so just press any button, then hold SW1 + SW2 for three seconds).

The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in STEP 1 of the diagnostics routine.

Each STEP must be manually advanced. Press SW5 to move to the next STEP in sequence. Press SW4 to back up in the sequence to the previous STEP.


+I've tried to run the diagnostics steps for 19/44/45 but I'm not sure I'm doing it right. The controls via the display are not intuitive at all. I'm supposed to be able to cycle through the stages/steps but the buttons don't seem to let me do that.
--->SERVICE TIP: IF CONTROL DOES NOT RESPOND, REMOVE POWER FROM THE ENTIRE APPLIANCE FOR 10 SECONDS, RE-APPLY POWER WAIT 10 SECONDS AND PERFORM THE SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS ROUTINE.:)

Try that and see if it responds and let us know.

Jake
 

ToolingNinja

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Huntley, IL
I wasn't clear enough on what I meant by "doesn't respond". I can navigate the diagnostics to get to the different tests, but inside the tests (like 44 or 45) you are supposed to be able to use the change setting key (SW3 I believe) to step internally within 44 or 45. Maybe I'm reading that wrong.

I pulled the plug for 15 seconds and retested.

1) SW1+SW2 for 3 seconds into diag mode
2) navigated to test 44 (used SW4 as a minus to loop backwards)
3) selected this test using SW3
4) unit flashes "1" for a bit, the tray rotates around (160° or whatever it is supposed to do, resulting in a slight twist)
5) unit flashes "2" at some point during this event I believe an then changes to 12
6) at limit, the screen changes to 23

I think that is what is supposed to occur in this stage other than 23, where the 3 means a switch faulty or motor issue. I believe (not sure) that 23 is the correct ending stage for this test?

Then I move to test 45 (since I can't seem to get water into the try at any point).
1) Use SW5 to +1 from 44 to 45.
2) Use SW3 to select
3) tray returns to home (honestly it looks like to goes just past home as it is tilted a little)
4) the system screen shows 01 flashing the whole time
5) once in home, the screen never moves beyond 01
6) trying to use SW3 to change from 01 to 02/03/04 to fill does not work. Using SW4/5 changes the test

I can't figure out how to get the try to fill or if the problem is that the system is not registering home?

Right now I have the ice bin covering off and I am jumpering the switch to ensure I can run the test cycles without issue.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,974
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

I don't see anywhere it says to Press SW3 to start each step, it should auto start each step once you get to the specific step.


4) the system screen shows 01 flashing the whole time
5) once in home, the screen never moves beyond 01
the problem is that the system is not registering home?
Correct, The ice maker itself is the problem.

Here's the ice maker for your model you can order:
W10873791 Ice Maker


Let us know how it goes after you replace the ice maker.

Jake
 

ToolingNinja

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Huntley, IL
I replaced that component yesterday (with that part) and now both (old and new) perform the same at that stage. They both also reset to what I think home is on the next stage, but fill never occurs.
 

ToolingNinja

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Huntley, IL
This was bugging me so I just retested again with both components (old/new).

The old runs 44, ends at 23, when I cycle to 45 and tell it to home, it flashes 01 the whole time (during back move), never changes.

The new runs 44, ends at 23, when I cycle to 45 and tell it to home, it flashes 02 1 time, then 01 while it moves back, then changes to 02 but that's it. Nothing else happens.


I retested the new again, and this time when I ran 45 it stays on 01 and doesn't change to 02 (ran 44 first, it doesn't seem to do anything on 45 until it ran 44 first). I've ran 5 more tests and I can't get it to cycle to 02 again. I've seen 02 a couple of times, but it doesn't do anything and it's inconsistent.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
123,974
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, something very strange is going on then, you'll need to have KitchenAid come out to investigate: 1-800-422-1230

Jake
 

ToolingNinja

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Huntley, IL
Well...this was a fun ride.

As I was waiting for the tech scheduled date I decided to go over everything again. This time, even though there wasn't any visible sign of wiring damage, checking that much more rigorously. The inconsistent behavior bothered me. When I check for continuity of the wires from the harness at the base of the unit to the connector at the ice maker I discovered the 2 wires had no continuity and 3 others were inconsistent depending on how I moved or held the cable at the base of the door. The wires for the ice maker are held in a plastic sleeve whereas the control panel wires are held in a reinforced fabric mesh. The sleeve felt hard and slightly discolored (like plastic looks when you bend it back and forth many times). I decided to open that up and once I did I found 3 wires completely broken (how one of them had continuity I have no idea - must have been held just right). When feeling the rest of the wires with my fingers you could feel a break in the internal copper on all of the rest of them but 1. I decided to cut, solder, and re-shrink tube the wires. Everything works again with the original ice maker.


Not holding my breath that KitchenAid will recognize this is a major defect that is occurring with enough frequency to be a real problem (including a safety hazard with potentially exposed wires with a stainless steel appliance).
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Neil Maune

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Joined
Dec 2, 2019
Messages
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Location
Hannibal, MO
So...wondering if ToolingNinja ever received any satisfaction from Kitchen Aid? See my picture attached. Refrigerator purchased June 2015 and after spending $225.00 for new ice maker (because repairman thought "mister" was busted, I learn that Kitchen Aid won't make this right ($1,300.00 for new door). To make matters worse, drain pan has an issue so I have overflow water on the refrigerator side. Exposed wires and water, anyone?
 

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Boilers187

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Indiana
I had the same problem. I even bought two new ice makers and installed them over time. After reconnecting everything and a few months of use the white wire has frayed again. I don’t have enough wire sticking out to reconnect though so now I have to figure out where the wire coins from to add an extension to connect to. Anyone have a diagram on how to remove freezer door panel to access wires? If not, I’ll just start taking things apart until I get there.
 

Bart56

Premium Member
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
18
Location
Massachusetts
I've repaired this same broken wire harness twice on my neighbor's fridge. First time it was only 3 wires. 4 months later it was nearly all but 4, 2 of which were mine. One of my solder joints failed with all the bending. I added a 3" section of wires, soldering both ends, taped each individually (staggered joints) then taped the whole thing. Finally, I covered it with flex tubing used for auto cable bundles. It lasted 8 months!
This is the worst design ever and I'm looking for a way to keep it from creasing. I also want a peak at the wiring diagram to see what kind of loads are on the wires so I can maybe build my own harness as it is getting close to the door's exit hole. The biggest headache is working so close to the floor (not a lot of room to work with) because taking the door off requires keeping the freezer cold somehow while I do the work.

Has anyone come across the wiring diagram? Has anyone had a successful fix for a year or more?
 

mossback

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2020
Messages
1
Location
Seattle
Hello all. I'm in the same boat. Ice maker stopped working. At first I thought the IM assembly itself was bad somehow but after reading this thread and checking the harness I found at least three broken wires. Clearly Whirlpool should have used much more flexible cables (higher strand count and silicon jackets). But they didn't and we're stuck with this mess. Bart, I'm curious how you were able to get enough slack to solder the 3" extensions. And it seems like the freezer door needs to be open to have any access to the harness. If so, what a pain in the rear having to deal with all the frozen food.
 

Bart56

Premium Member
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
18
Location
Massachusetts
@mossback - if you separate the harness plugs from the main refrigerator (you'll see them under the freezer) you can close the door again and let them come straight down and towards you while you make repairs. The first time I did this, my neighbor used a moving blanket to shield the freezer from getting warm but it didn't work that well.
Hope this helps.
 

BEERviper

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
I'm another victim of the terrible design of KitchenAid / Whirlpool wiring on this same model side by side refrigerator :mad: My icemaker also stopped making ice but it would still dispense ice, the water dispenser still worked, and the icemaker LED light still illuminated.

After going through all the codes in the wiring diagram and having similar results the command to fill the water would never work. So I hired a local appliance company to come out and take a look, after about 2 seconds in front of the appliance he opened the freezer door and snapped a picture of the broken wires leading into the freezer door. He suggested I contact KitchenAid / Whirlpool to request a warrantied replacement door as this is a known issue.

My call into KitchenAid support led me to what sounded like a younger call rep that asked for the serial number, after pulling up information on the appliance he stated that there had been no reports of the same issue on this model :unsure:. I wasn't going to convince this kid that I found blog and forum posts dating back to 2010 with the same issue on side-by-side refrigerators. I still plan to keep calling KitchenAid and escalate this issue because I know the fix I did won't last...

I had 3 broken wires inside the broken plastic wire housing. I found a heat shrink wire connector that has a low temp solder ring in the middle with heat activated waterproof adhesive (these). I had not used these before so I practiced with one outside the refrigerator and realized how hot my heat gun would get quickly. I proceeded to strip the first broken wire and apply heat (I also purchased a heat gun reducer attachment to focus the heat), the bad part here is that I was applying to heat to the entire area full of wires and unfortunately melted a 4th wire (the red one) that just came apart, wire and all. Going forward I inserted a metal scraper in between the wire being fixed and the rest so that didn't happen again. After repairing the 4 wires and restoring power, I had ice the next morning.

As stated, the problem still exists that those wires are still being twisted 180 degrees every time the freezer door is opened so it's inevitable that it's going to happen again.

I wish I would have found this forum before spending $119 for a technician to come out and show me the broken wires, but unfortunately my searches for "KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker stopped working" did not lead me here quick enough.

Hopefully this can help the next victim :(
 

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Robert4

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2021
Messages
182
Location
Houston, TX
@BEERviper, What's your model number?

My call into KitchenAid support led me to what sounded like a younger call rep that asked for the serial number, after pulling up information on the appliance he stated that there had been no reports of the same issue on this model :unsure:
There is just about no way that that is true. It's a known design flaw with in-door ice makers on Whirlpool made side-by-sides.
 

BEERviper

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Colorado
@BEERviper, What's your model number?


There is just about no way that that is true. It's a known design flaw with in-door ice makers on Whirlpool made side-by-sides.

Sorry I didn't state that ... it's the same model as in the subject of this thread - KRSC503ESS00. The CS rep asked for the serial number as opposed to the model number, but he did confirm the model number from the serial number.

And yes I agree it's hard to believe that it would not be noted in their system. My refrigerator is over 5 years old and was provided by the builder of our home, possible that there were not a ton of this specific model that were manufactured and they are only looking at reports of this happening specifically for this model.

I'm gathering information I found on this website and several others where owners of Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Maytag / JennAir / etc side by side refrigerators that have suffered the same fate. Obviously the first line of defense is to deny any claim out of warranty, especially when the only solution is the replace the entire freezer door 🤦‍♂️
 

Bart56

Premium Member
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
18
Location
Massachusetts
Hello all. I'm in the same boat. Ice maker stopped working. At first I thought the IM assembly itself was bad somehow but after reading this thread and checking the harness I found at least three broken wires. Clearly Whirlpool should have used much more flexible cables (higher strand count and silicon jackets). But they didn't and we're stuck with this mess. Bart, I'm curious how you were able to get enough slack to solder the 3" extensions. And it seems like the freezer door needs to be open to have any access to the harness. If so, what a pain in the rear having to deal with all the frozen food.
My neighbor's wires broke again and his wife felt they were imposing too much to ask me to fix it yet again - although I'm happy to. I found out that if you unscrew the clamp that holds the harness (two bundles if I remember) to the bottom frame of the fridge, you can unplug both bundles and let them hang down then close the freezer door and work on it from the outside.
That's how I fixed it last time and I cut all the wires to splice in new ones. They don't color match but it's a small section. I'm sorry I didn't see Mossback's question to me last year but that's how I did it. It allows you to work on the wires while they are dead (not connected anymore). Still, you have to work laying flat on your belly or side because it's so close to the floor but it makes for a better repair. It lasted a long time, but the design flaw doesn't go away. The wires crease every time you open/close the freezer door and will break. I wrapped the whole bundle tight after the repair to get them to flex all together possibly keeping them from creasing.
So yeah - terrible design and they should be ashamed for the lack of engineering a proper flex cable. But if you add a few inches, you can always go back and replace the extended section and not worry about the wires getting too short under the freezer door. I was thinking of building a pluggable extension cord... but it's not my fridge (I would try it on my own but not a neighbor's).

Sooner or later, they all will fail like this - over and over again so leave a little extra wire for next time.
 
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