Yes i agree with Rick, and since yours is a side by side: Lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the ice maker/and or auger motor to be dead. Remove your bottom kickplate grille, Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.
Back again. Long story, but it ended with my paying a tech to tell me that there's a broken wire in the bundle leading from under the refrigerator into the door. For whatever bureaucratic reason he was not allowed to fix it, just point it out to me and leave (ka-CHING). At least he was friendly enough. Anyway, now I need to gear up to solder this thin piece of wire, a wire wholly unsuited to how it's being used, and wrap it in enough shrinky-dink material to keep the solder job from breaking as the bundle is bent during use of the freezer door. Really lousy design and implementation by KitchenAid. My wife has suggested we just buy some ice cube trays, and that is sounding attractive!
I agree with you it's a bad design. I've fixed quite a few broken wires in the hinge before and it's not that hard. I've had to add a piece of wire on a few repairs but if done right you shouldn't have any more problems. If you decide to repair the wire here's a few tips that have worked well for me over the years; First off, don't fight the repair. Removing the door will make it easier but is not necessary. Don't strip off more than 1/8" of wire insulation on each end. Use the right size heat shrink about 1" long. Don't twist the wire ends together. Push the wires together so the strands from one wire butt up against the wire insulation of the other wire and your soldering surface is about 1/8" or a little over, total. I use a generous amount of paste flux on the bare wires. Wait until the soldering iron is hot (3-5 min). A soldering gun will work but the tip is usually larger than the solder area. Clean the tip good and re-tin it. Touch the hot tip on the flux It will run up the wire strands. While still holding the trigger in, touch a small piece of solder to the tip of the solder gun then touch the tip of the solder gun to the wires until the solder flows onto the wires. Try not to hold it there any longer than necessary. Try not to melt the wire insulation. Slide the heat shrink over the joint. Use a good quality Black tape and tightly wrap the wires together.
I'm assuming that by now, you've checked the wiring harness under the freezer door and found the wires to be broken. This is happening on many door wrings like this.
To all the others out there, open the freezer door and look at the hing area at the bottom. You'll probably see a black plastic/rubber wrapped wiring harness. It may be split or not, but inside the wrapper, there are about 14 wires that break due to the open/close action of the door which folds the wire harness each time.
I've fixed this twice and the wires that didn't break the first time were broken the second time. I added about 3" of wire to each and wrapped them tight, then covered them in a flexible, ribbed wire protector. That fix lasted 10 months. Now I need to come up with a better solution. Replacing the whole freezer door at $1400 is not an option especially when they can't guarantee it will match the fridge door.
Save yourself a headache and check this first and brush up on your soldering skills.
So far I've fixed 6 more wires which broke in a different place from the last fix. 18 hr later, still no ice. The wires are breaking inside the insulation so they are difficult to see easily. I had to take each wire separately and slowly bend it in a circle. The broken ones tended to have a sharp bend rather than a smooth circular bend.
All that said, I ran the diags and test 44 was showing a 23 until I fixed the wires, now it is 22 which is a good thing I think.
I've noticed that the bucket full test arm is staying up at the ice tray level and can't be manually pulled down. I was hoping to be able to start an ice cycle (water fill, freeze till temp below harvest temp, harvest) but I don't know how to do that. My Samsung has a one button reset to start an ice cycle which comes in handy every time the bucket full test arm gets frozen in the up position and stops making ice. As it cycles, the very end of the 2 minute cycle is where the arm comes down so I wait and then man handle it to break through the frozen ice buildup in the mechanism. Wish the kitchen aide had that start ice cycle button.
After re-reading this thread, I finally picked up that SW3 is the "CHANGE SETTINGS" switch - I wish that was labelled somewhere like on the diagnostic sheet. I have to go back to run test 44 and 45 again to see if there are any more broken wires hiding down there.
I saw a video that says it takes 24 hrs to start ice production and 72 hours for full ice production. Can't be sure, but I think they mean 72 hrs to fill the bucket. So I'll wait another 6 hrs and find out what happened after the 24 hrs pass.