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FIXED KSBP25INSS00 Help with ice maker, was working just fine and then, poof, no ice

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
Model Number
KSBP25INSS00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
Hello, struggling with my KitchenAid ice maker not making ice in a major way! Was working just fine and then, poof, no ice. I started poking around and found a few problems:

1. In inlet tube was obstructed, frozen with ice. I used some hot water, poking, prodding, a hair dryer and defrosted the entire freezer. Tube is now soft and flexible.
2. The lights on the optic sensor we indicating a problem, repeatedly flashing twice. Replaced board 4389102. Wasn't thrilled about the fit but installed and now I have a steady red light when the flapper door is closed.
3. I did unplug the entire fridge for about 5 minutes after installing the new boards to try and "reset".

Before I changed the boards I noticed that the arms were moving from what I can tell "normally" but I never really looked before so I don't have a frame of reference. When I look at the teeth now they are pointing (sharpest, narrowest end) at nine o'clock.

I just poured a little water into the tray to see if anything changes. But I am at a complete loss. I found two problems, thought I addressed them both. But still no ice! Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
I poured a small amount in there so there is now. But it was bone dry overnight without my adding of water. Thank you.
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
Not sure how long ago you poured water into the ice maker but once it's frozen solid the ice maker (if it is functioning properly) should eject the few cube(s) (even if you just poured in as little as one chamber full of water). If it does not eject the cube(s)
then I would
1. Make sure the freezer temperature is cold enough. It should be somewhere around zero. If you have solid/hard ice cream then chances are the freezer is cold enough
If it's cold enough then replace the ice maker , but.......... you may also have a secondary problem.
Since you mentioned the fill tube was initially frozen, you might not have cleared it completely. The easiest way for you to check if it is clear is get behind the refrigerator. Follow the plastic tube that runs from the top right corner down to the water valve. Disconnect the plastic tube from the valve and blow through the tube. You should be able to easily blow through it.
The inlet tube to the ice maker does not normally freeze up so I suspect that the water inlet valve may be "weeping" ie: it is not completely shutting off. This will cause a slight trickle to continue filling the tube and since it is a slow trickle, it will freeze instantly upon contact with the tube.
So for now make sure the tube is clear.
Then I would replace the inlet valve and the ice maker unless the ice maker has ejected the water you poured in. If it has then just replace the inlet valve.
Ice maker
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-complete-icemaker-assembly-2198597-ap3182733.html
Inlet valve
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-valve-inlt-w10247725-ap4454644.html

Note: to disconnect the plastic tube from the water valve you push the little collar in then pull the tube out. Some collars have a plastic c-clip locking tab under the collar that you have to pop off before you can push the collar in.
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
Thanks for the guidance here. I left for about two hours and ice in tray was frozen but not expelled, teeth didn’t appear to move at all.

I disconnected the line from the valve and was able to blow through it and feel air coming into the rubber valve. So it appears the line is clear.

So given this information it sounds like it is the ice maker itself, correct?

Thanks again
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
Picked up and installed the ice maker. Still no ice. Now I guess I change out the inlet valve? Am I missing something else?

Thank you.
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
If water supply Is the problem then the old ice maker should have made a batch of cubes after you manually filled it...but it didn't, so the problem is elsewhere. I'm a little concerned about your statement "wasn't thrilled about the fit" when you were talking about having replaced the optic boards. Did you have to force anything to get the boards to fit?
For now leave the new ice maker installed. Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the right side optic board ( right side as you are looking into the freezer...the board opposite the board with the door on its cover). The wire harness sticking out of the freezer liner will have several wires going to a plug. Find the black wire and the black/white wire. Put a jumper across the terminals of those 2 wires ( a thick paper clip cut and bent into a V shape works well as does a stripped 14 gauge wire) . After you install the jumper , wrap electrical tape around it and the plug to keep the clip secured and so it can't short against anything. Put the cover back on.
Plug the refrigerator back into the outlet and sit back for a few hours and see what happens.
By installing the jumper you are bypassing the optical sensing system so if the ice maker starts working it will not stop making ice once the bin is full. If you get ice that means the optic board(s) were probably damaged during installation. Just because it passes the light test does not necessarily mean the boards are good. I have had several boards pass yet were bad. I always use the jumper test to verify the problem.
Btw-if you have a thermometer check to make sure the freezer temp is somewhere below 5 degrees. Preferably around zero.
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
The board had a clip on it that wasn't going to fit with my harness so I had to trim it to get it to fit. I also felt like it did not fit into the receptacle perfectly and it needed to be screwed down to be secure. So damage isn't impossible there.

I just took it out and my wire harness has a black and white wire and a white one but NOT a black one. It also has yellow/blue, blue/yellow, orange/white. brown/white.

The thermometer in the fridge section shows zero. The ice cream is hard :)

What wires should I jump with my configuration?

Thanks again.
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
I have never had to make any modifications to the board(s) and I have replaced several dozens. I have never seen a harness that did not have a black wire and right next to it a black/white wire except once in a built in Kitchenaid Refrigerator so I'm trying to locate wiring diagram for your model.
Something bothers me about the part number of the kit you installed. The original part number 2255114 crosses to the current number being sold W10757851 not to the part number you installed which is 4389102. When I check 4389102 it does cross over to the new number W10757851 BUT that does not mean that 4389102 can substitute for 2255114. That means that the new number w10757851 was modified to be used in place of either of the old numbers.
Do you have the tech sheet that came with your refrigerator?
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
It didn’t seem right to me either but according to the paperwork that came with it and what I was told at my local supply store was that part 4389102 was a substitute for 2255114. But I certainly believe you, especially after struggling with getting it to fit. As to the wiring harness, no clue there. I definitely don’t see a black wire. Unfortunately I don’t have a sheet on it as I am the second owner.
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
Every diagram I find shows black and black/white wire and none of the other colors you mention. Trying to find the tech sheet for your model.
BTW- when you open the freezer door and push the light switch in does the light in the freezer go off and on again when you release the button?
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
Can't find your specific diagram but it's pins 3 and 4 that need to be jumped together. I believe pin 1 is the bottom most pin when the board is installed but to make sure look at the board and see if the pins are labeled with a number printed on the board. Check both sides of the board. It's a 8 pin board with 1 pin missing. They will put a number next to either the first pin or the last pin (pin 8 ) . So look for the number 1 or the number 8 printed next to the appropriate pin. If you see an 8 on the last pin then the opposite end is the number 1 and vice versa. Count up from pin 1 . Don't count back from pin 8 since pin 7 is missing we don't want to get mixed up and jump the wrong wires in the harness.
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
Every diagram I find shows black and black/white wire and none of the other colors you mention. Trying to find the tech sheet for your model.
BTW- when you open the freezer door and push the light switch in does the light in the freezer go off and on again when you release the button?

Yes, it does.

I think my best bet at this point is to order the board that you identified. With a new ice maker I hope it’s not the new one. With a questionable board it is a good chance it’s that. Wasting money on parts I may not have needed and might not be right but starting to narrow down the problem!
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
Thanks for the thorough description on how to jump. The number 1 was right where you said it would be and I jumped 3 and 4 out on the harness. Left it overnight, no ice.
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
I'm getting married to this problem..lol
Hope you still have the new ice maker installed.
Remove the jumper and use a multimeter to check for voltage between pin 3 and 8 (the last pin ) in the harness. You should read around 120 volts ac. If you get 120 volts and you still have the new ice maker installed then we have almost come full circle. The only thing left would be the water valve which doesn't make sense right now because you had filled the ice maker with water and it still did not make ice.
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
Ha. I am growing obsessed. And I am hoping it ends up better than my first marriage! Measured between pins 3 and 8. Got a reading of 120.6.
 

jackofalltrades

Appliance Tech
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
906
Location
NY
Well that leaves only 2 possibilities. The water valve is defective or there is a broken wire going to the valve. Remove the ice maker and put it aside. The ice maker harness in the freezer has 4 wires. Hopefully yours has a tan wire and a white wire. If so, measure the resistance between the tan and white wires. Set your meter to 2K (2000) ohms or higher.
You should get a reading around 300+ ohms. If you get no reading (infinite resistance) the valve is bad or there is a broken wire going to the valve.
 

jcz

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2018
Messages
27
Location
New York
Okay, did all of the above and yes white and tan wires existed. Got a reading of around 229 when measuring the resistance at 2000.
 
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