FIXED KSCS23INSS00 Fridge not cooling compressor not turning on

sssteve04

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Aug 5, 2014
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12
Location
Mass
Model Number
KSCS23INSS00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Hi there, wondering if you can help me out, I have a KitchenAid Fridge KSCS23INSS00 that stopped working. I found that the Fan and Compressor was not working. I replaced one relay and one cap on the control board, now the fan is working, I put the fridge into diagnostics mode, and when the compressor is signaled to turn on, it doesn't. Wondering how to test for voltage at the compressor or should I be looking else where? Does that board maybe need another relay replaced? Thanks Steve
 

sssteve04

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Hi, I put the fridge back in diagnostic mode and on #5 where the compressors should be on, the voltage between the previous mentioned terminals was 1.29 DC. What do you think is the next step? Thanks for your help
 

rickgburton

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sssteve04 said:
I replaced one relay and one cap on the control board
The board is bad and as a service tech I would replace it. As I'm sure you already know, the board is not replaceable only rebuildable. There are several places that rebuild them so I go through them. Unfortunately that's as far as my control board knowledge goes. Here's a place that rebuilds them:
Send in/wait for repair--->https://circuitboardmedics.com/whirlpool-refrigerator-control-board-repair-W10219462-W10219463
Already rebuilt and ready to ship--->https://circuitboardmedics.com/w10219462-w10219463-refrigerator-control-board-replacement/
 

sssteve04

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I had another question, When I took the connector off that pluged into the board to test the 2 terminals in question, there was only one wire running out of that connector... I'm trying be clear, only one termainal is being used off P7. there was no wire off one of them (P7-3 or P7-8, I forget). I can take a picture of the connector later if this don't make sence.

I was reading another post from last night and they had the same reading off P7-3 to P7-8, 1.2 DC,

Wondering if I'm testing the correct terminals? Thanks and I don't mean to question your smarts :)
 

sssteve04

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I looked at a picture of the connector and I have a 12 pin connector if that helps any
 

rickgburton

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OK, even though the pins you measure between are the same, P7-3 and P7-8, they are in a different location on the 12 pin connector. Here's how the pins are numbered:
P7 CON.jpg
 

sssteve04

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Those are the exact terminals I measured against. The board in your picture looks a little different tho, but the connector looks the same
image.jpg
 

rickgburton

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It's the same board. The one in my image is reconditioned. Most of those board are all basically the same board. The board components my look different but the pin outs and voltage readings are the same for all boards. Up until now I've only seen too little or no VDC between those two pins. 12 VDC is twice the voltage it should have. I'll double check my manuals but at this point I would say the board is bad.
 

rickgburton

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Here's the tech sheet for your machine. P7-3 and P7-8 is the compressor drive circuit. Those two wires go to the inverter. First check for 120 VAC at the board P5 connector Check the voltage at the inverter between the red wire and red/white wire to see if you have the same 12 VDC. Then check between the other two wires at the inverter for 120 VAC. Let me know what you find:
 

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sssteve04

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Hi Rick, I doubled checked the connector in question, I got 5.7 volts p7 3 and 8 image.jpgimage.jpg wondering what the next step would be, thanks for your continued help
 

rickgburton

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NOTE: If the compressor does not operate perform the following steps.

Connect power to the refrigerator and allow it to enter the “cooling” mode.

While the refrigerator is in the cooling mode, the inverter and main control board voltages should be 3 to 6 VDC between the red wire and the white wire at the inverter and 120 VAC between the black wire and the white wire.

If the 3 to 6 volts DC is not present at the inverter red/white and red wires, check P7-3 and P7-8 on the main control board for 3 to 6 volts DC. If the voltage is not present, replace the main control board WPW10219463

If the 3 to 6 volts DC is present at the main control board, unplug the refrigerator or disconnect the power.

Disconnect the wire connector going from the inverter to the compressor. Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

Touch the meter leads to any two compressor pins. The meter should indicate approximately 9 to 10 Ω. Check between each set of pins to test all three windings.

Set the ohmmeter to the highest scale. Touch one meter lead to the cabinet ground and the other lead to each of the three compressor terminals. The meter should indicate an open circuit (infinite). Any other reading indicats a shorted compressor.
 

sssteve04

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Hi Rick, I tested the 3 pins on the compressor and I was getting 6.5 to 6.6 ish ohms between any two, did not find that any of then was shorted to gnd, what are your thoughts? Thanks
 

rickgburton

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OK, I was starting to confuse your machine and another members machine with a similar board. Go back to post #16 and follow the steps again. Only this time do not disconnect any of the wire connectors from the board or compressor inverter when taking voltage measurements. Post the results here.
 

sssteve04

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Hi Rick,

I have 115V and 5-6V at the Inverter and 5-6 ohms between any two pins at the compressor. The Inverter case should be gray but it looks brown in some spots. Overheated maybe? If I replace the inverter will it be the same one or a redesigned version?
 

rickgburton

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