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FIXED KSCS25INSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator stopped making ice

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rfintampa

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
15
Location
Florida
Model Number
KSCS25INSS00
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
Our icemaker stopped working a few days ago. Here is what I have noticed so far.

Optics:
These seem fine. When door opened, I get two blinks, then one second pause and blinks again. Hold back the flapper and the red light is solid. Bin is empty so I don't think optics are blocked when door is closed.

Temperature:
Checked with thermometer and it is between 0-5F. While having the door open while troubleshooting, the temperature crept up to 18-23F. But after closing the door it eventually got back down to 0F.

Water:
There is no water or ice in the mold - it is completely dry. That made me suspect the water supply. Water pressure to water dispenser is just fine, fills up a cup in 15 seconds. Water filter was changed a few months ago (I let them go a year in between changes since we just use this for ice). The black water nozzle in the freezer cabinet is flexible with no obvious ice. I was able to get a little slush out with a pipe cleaner. Inserted a zip tie into opening to check for blockages and was able to feed in about 7 inches – not sure if blocked as it curves and narrows, but the zip tie came out dry. Checked icemaker supply hose along back and seems room temperature and flexible.

Icemaker:
The tines are pointed down, not out towards the door. If it were a clock, the tine would be near 6 o’clock from the motor side. See photo from above. This seems odd to me as I thought the tines are supposed to pointed out the door (3 on the clock) until the water freezes (again there is no water/ice in the mold - those white marks seem to be hard water deposits). Not sure why the tines are pointing down.

I took out the icemaker and removed the control module. Didn’t see any obvious issues inside, seemed very clean. Have photos if needed. I reinstalled the control module and reconnected the icemaker to check voltage at L+N. Didn’t seem like there was power at first after reconnecting and the optics kept blinking despite not being blocked. But after a little bit the optics were working as normal and I was able to read 120v at L+N.

What’s next?
It’s not clear to me what to test next. Or perhaps it is already obvious what part is not working properly. Any advice?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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125,798
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, when the ice maker ejector arm fingers are pointing down in the ice tray that ALWAYS means the ice maker is bad.:)

Here's the ice maker for your model you can order:
2198597 Complete Icemaker Assembly (8 Cube)


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

rfintampa

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
15
Location
Florida
Ok, thanks for confirming that. I will order one. Just curious - how do the fingers end up pointing down without water in the mold? Sensor failure, wiring issue?

Should I do anything to test the water valve in case there are issues with that too? That way I can order anything I need at once. Is there no way to test the water valve without a working icemaker?
 

Jake

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how do the fingers end up pointing down without water in the mold? Sensor failure, wiring issue?
Its usually the main gear failure.

Should I do anything to test the water valve in case there are issues with that too?
Yes, jptl has a good post on how to direct test the ice maker side of the water inlet valve solenoid with a cheater test cord here: Testing ice maker water supply at the solenoid

Jake
 

rfintampa

Premium Member
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Messages
15
Location
Florida
Thanks for the info. That is an interesting way to test the valve and I like not having to disconnect any water lines. I also found the other info in that thread helpful to better understand the design.

As an alternative method to test the ice maker side of the water inlet valve, couldn't we just switch the power plugs on the two solenoids? That way you could use the door water dispenser switch to trigger the solenoid for the ice maker line. If the door water switch just allows power to flow to the solenoid, this could also work.

Then standing in front with the freezer door open, you could trigger the ice maker solenoid via the door water switch with one hand while holding the cup up to the ice maker water outlet in the other hand. Might be safer than rigging your own power and then plugging/unplugging while hoping your cup doesn't fall from the ledge. You might have to tape back the freezer door switch in case that acts as a cutoff for the door water switch by not letting someone dispense water while the freezer door is open.

Any risks of using the alternate approach?
 

Jake

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Sure, you can do it that way too.:)

Jake
 

rfintampa

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
15
Location
Florida
Sure, you can do it that way too.:)

Jake
Yes, testing that way did work... sort of. After disconnecting the plugs for the two solenoids, I discovered on my model that the solenoid contact tabs were difference sizes so the plugs are not swappable. However, I was able to get the door water dispenser plug to at least touch the larger contacts on the ice maker solenoid to provide power.

And the test confirmed that the ice maker water solenoid works and the water line is not blocked.

I also checked the main gear on the ice maker control module and you were right that it was a main gear failure. The hub on the gear that fits over the shaft had snapped off. New ice maker incoming.
 

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Jake

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Excellent, glad that worked to confirm your water inlet valve solenoid to the ice maker is fine.:)

Yes, I see the photo of the main gear, seen many broken like that over my 33 years as a career appliance tech.:)

Let us know how it goes when you get the new ice maker installed.

Jake
 

rfintampa

Premium Member
Joined
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Messages
15
Location
Florida
Finally got around to installing the new ice maker. Other than a small install issue (see below), it started making ice right away. Getting cubes every hour or so, and the bin is almost half full already. Very happy with the result. Thanks for all the help!

I think this was mentioned in similar ice maker replacement threads, but the replacement unit came with a taller receptacle for the water intake than the original. The water nozzle in my freezer comes down too far hitting the taller new receptacle and not allowing the new ice maker to slide into place. See photos attached - even though I am holding the new receptacle a little higher than the old one, you can see the new one is much taller and wider (although the width was not the issue)..

20201204_195207.jpg

As you can see, the receptacle has the shaft of the ice cube rake going through it. So I had to take both ice makers completely apart to transfer the old receptacle to the new ice maker. Here is the new one put back together with the old receptacle (the old one is disassembled near it).

20201204_195332.jpg
20201204_195423.jpg

On the plus side, this gave me a chance to wipe down all the components of the new ice maker. There was also a small difference in the front plastic tray (where the cubes slide down from) as the original had a shortened tine on the far right side that stopped before the receptacle. You can see that in the second photo from the top. Regardless, I was able to use the new front plastic tray as the plastic tine just sits on the edge of the receptacle. I could have reused the old plastic tray as it was fine, but decided to just roll with the new one anyway.
 

Jake

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Excellent, glad the new ice maker fixed it.(y)

Good photos! I've seen many like that before myself on my service calls too.

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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