KSCS25INSS00 Kitchenaid side-by-by side no longer cooling

[jsrammacher]

Model Number

KSCS25INSS00

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

More than 10 years

I have read many threads that cover many parts of my problem. Sorry to start a new thread but wanted to be able to explain in detail what I am experiencing and how I got here. refrigerator seemed to be operating Ok holding 37 degrees. Freezer was a little warm at 7 degrees. Side by side middle wall was very hot. I cleaned the front coil I could see on bottom of frig. No help, center wall still hot and freezer still 7 degrees. I pulled frig away from wall and took off bottom rear access cover. Looked inside from rear and saw many more coils to clean. Compressor was very hot, I do not remember if fan was running or not at this point. Didn't know how I could reach coils to clean so I thought I would put frig on its back to take off bottom to access other coils. Once I tipped frig on its back, getting inside the bottom didn't seem feasible, so I went back to Youtube for more help. got the idea of using an air compressor. Put frig back upright and cleaned all coils with compressed air. Turned frig on and no action on compressor or fan. Back to Youtube. Saw fix for changing out capacitor and relay on control board. Confirmed fan motor worked with AC power cord.
Ordered new capacitor and relay and replaced. Fan works great but no action on compressor. All electric seems to work. I can feel airflow inside freezer from fan. I have tried five times to turn whole unit on and let run fro 24 hours. No cooling either side, and no action on compressor.
Why would compressor run and be very out at the beginning of this and now after upgraded capacitor and relay fan works but no action on compressor.
I wanted to ask before I bought a new invertor board for compressor.
Compressor was running before, very hot, but running! Wouldn't this mean the the invertor board was OK. Why the invertor board go out just because I upgraded the capacitor and relay in main board.
I have tried to remove starter from side of compressor. I can not get it to move/pull off at all.

Thanks for any knowledgeable insight.
Scott

 

[rickgburton]

I thought I would put frig on its back to take off bottom .....Turned frig on and no action on compressor

You got lucky, no, very lucky the compressor didn't turn on. If it had you'd be looking at a $1000 repair. Never lay a refrigerator down. The compressor oil runs into the lines and if it started the compressor would have pumped the oil into the capillary tube and evaporator. If you do lay a machine down on it's side or back make sure you wait 24 hours before you plug it in.

Why the invertor board go out just because I upgraded the capacitor and relay in main board.

Probably because there's more than just a cap and relay that's gone bad on the board. Leave all the wire connectors connected and measure the voltage between the two smaller wires going to the inverter. Do you have 3-6 VDC?

 

[jsrammacher]

Rick, thanks for the note. I read not to put on its back somewhere after I did it. It was on its back for about 10 minutes. I tried to refrigerator about 1/2 hours later after I had cleaned all coils with compressed air. As I mentioned the fan came on, but no action on compressor. It was then a week (in the upright position) before I got the capacitor and relay and upgraded the board. Still no action on compressor, fan runs. It has now been a week and I have received new replacement invertor. I am going to install tonight. We will see if that does the trick. I will try and read a little more about "Leave all the wire connectors connected and measure the voltage between the two smaller wires going to the inverter." I'll look for the two small wires. Thanks and I appreciate any continued feedback.

 

[rickgburton]

I have received new replacement invertor. I am going to install tonight. We will see if that does the trick.

I would have checked it first. That way will get very expensive very fast.

 

[jsrammacher]

Rick, thanks for your reply, looking for a little clarification. you wrote "I would have checked it first. That way will get very expensive very fast. "
What way will get very expensive very fast. What "it" should I have checked first.
Thanks

 

[rickgburton]

Rick, thanks for your reply, looking for a little clarification. you wrote "I would have checked it first. That way will get very expensive very fast. "

Replacing parts in hopes that one will fix it will get very expensive very fast.

Checking compressor inverters

When checking inverter voltage output, connect the test-meter leads to any 2 of the 3 compressor lead wires at the inverter plug (plug should be connected). The same reading should be measured between any 2 of the 3 wires. The inverter controls compressor speed by frequency variation and by Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). Changing frequency and PWM will cause an effective voltage between 80 and 230 VAC to be received at the compressor.

The inverter receives commands from the main control board. The main control board will send a PWM run signal of between 4-6 VDC effective voltage to the inverter (all wires must be connected). The inverter will select compressor speed (voltage output) based on this signal.

The main control board will only send a run signal to the inverter when the compressor should be on. Note: When measuring signal voltage (from the main control board) at the inverter, a reading of 4-6 VDC will be measured with all wires connected.
The inverter will monitor compressor operation and if the compressor fails to start or excessive current draw (4 amps maximum) is detected, the inverter will briefly stop voltage output.

With power removed, disconnect the inverter wires from the compressors. Measure the resistance between any two pins on the compressor. The meter should indicate 5-11 ohms. You should have the same measurement between all the pins.