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KSCS25INSS02 KitchenAid Ice Maker water inlet tube and funnel to the icemaker filling with ice

Schwarz633

Premium Member
Joined
May 29, 2021
Messages
10
Location
53403
Model Number
KSCS25INSS02
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
I'm struggling with the water inlet tube and funnel to the icemaker filling with ice. Yesterday morning I thawed it out with a heat gun, removed the ice maker, dried everything out, and reinstalled it. This is new icemaker (Exact ER2198597) that I installed a few weeks ago in an attempt to fix this problem that's been going intermittently for a while now. It was making ice yesterday and when I checked it this morning it looks like this:

IceMaker.jpg

Getting this thawed out is a big PITA and I need a permanent solution. Isn't the icemaker only supposed to energize the water solenoid after the tines have cycled and the tray is empty? It seems like the water is going in on top of the ice cubes and icing up until it plugs the black tube. Is it possible the water solenoid is leaking?
 
Another member was having this same issue:

Look at his photo in this post:

Like I mentioned to him:
Are the ice cube slots fill to the top freezing on the ice ejector bar?

I'd remove the ice maker first to verify that also make sure the black rubber fill hose that goes into the ice maker cup is in properly, and no ice is blocking that fill cup, making it overflow.

If no ice is blocking the fill cup, then clear out all the ice and turn the ice maker OFF, and see if water still keeps coming into the fill cup, if so the water inlet valve is the problem.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
W10247725 Valve-Inlt


Here's the OEM ice maker for your model:
2198597 Complete Icemaker Assembly (8 Cube)


 
I have removed the ice maker and have a red Solo cup positioned under the black fill tube. It initially formed a small icicle, but after I cleared that it's been dry. Maybe it only leaks immediately after a water fill cycle. I was thinking about putting a jumper in the 4-wire connector to briefly simulate a water fill cycle, but don't know which wires to jumper. It looks like Blk/Yel/Grn/Wht. Do you know which two I could jumper to energize the water solenoid? Common sense tells me it would be the Blk and Yel, but I'd like to be sure. I can probably figure it out with a DVM.

As far as the water level in the tray, it was making good ice cubes yesterday after I thawed it out, so I don't think that's the problem. And this problem was happening the same with the previous icemaker, so I'm leaning towards it being an intermittent problem with the solenoid valve.

Thanks for the guidance, I'll keep you posted.
 
You can jump the L & V on the module and that will send 120 volts to your water inlet valve and see if water comes out from your fill tube in the back of your ice maker.
Short L & V with an insulated piece of wire ( 14 gauge) with the ends of the wire bare approx 1/2". On some models you need to hold in the freezer door switch first and the flapper on the left side of the inside cabinet in the freezer.
OR
If you want to test the water inlet valve alone, the water inlet valve is in the back of your refrigerator where your water supply line hooks up to it. The ice maker side water inlet valve solenoid is the smaller diameter tube, which on this one shown in the part link I posted above is the RED solenoid.

Here's a test cord example:
Test Cord - 110 Volt With Alligator Clips


Or you can probably get a test cord like this at any hardware store in your area, or use a old lamp cord.

Jeff has a good section on this here: http://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-valvetest.html

jptl also shows you how he did it: Testing ice maker water supply at the solenoid
 
So I bought the 2198597 Whirlpool OEM icemaker assembly (made in USA) from GRP and it's been working fine for a few days now. I guess all replacement parts are not created equal. The water funnel was a little taller than the original, so it was a bit of a struggle to slide it in, but a little heat gun action on the black flexible tube and I was able to bend it out of the way. I had also put a 60psi Shok Blok pressure regulator in the water line, but I don't think that was the problem, as the old icemaker was still icing up after I installed that.
 
Sorry to hear about Jake passing, he was a great help with everyone's problems. I hope George is able to keep the forum alive, I'm sure Jake would want that.

My icemaker repair was short lived, so I purchased a W10247725 Whirlpool OEM valve assembly and installed that. It's been working well for a couple of weeks now, hopefully it will continue.
 

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