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KSDG950ESS0 KitchenAid Range Heating Element Repair Issue

altmad

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2022
Messages
3
Location
MA
Model Number
KSDG950ESS0
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
The lower heating element on my Kitchenaid KSDG950ESS0 failed catastrophically, so I replaced it with an OEM replacement part. Problem is that the oven still wont heat up - neither the lower element I replaced nor the broil element heat. I checked the incoming voltage at the input terminals and it checked out with expected L-L (~240) and L-G (~120) voltages. I checked the new heating element 16.2ohms and temperature sensor (~1100 ohms).

The interesting thing is that the L-L voltage coming into the heating elements is not 240V as I expected, it appears both connections to the heating elements (lower oven and broil) are at the same voltage (120V L-G). This would explain why no current flows and it doesn't heat up... but the only way I could see this as possible is if the switches in the oven controller had failed.

Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears possible that the switches could fail with L1 voltage at both heater inputs.... but before I go purchase a new controller, I wanted to see if there is something I am missing.

Anybody out there have experience with this?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,217
Location
Redmond, Oregon
(Click to enlarge)
Screenshot_20210112-001658_Gallery (1).jpg

See in the bottom of the YELLOW CIRCLE is the brown thermal fuse, that probably blew out when the element blew out, and thus you will NOT get 240 volts to the element.

So, what you will need to do is unplug the range from the wall outlet and remove those 2 wires from the thermal fuse and ohm test it for continuity.

You will need a multimeter to ohm test your thermal fuse first for continuity.

Pull your range out from the wall, then unplug it, then take off the back access panel and your thermal fuse will be in view, take both wires off of it before ohm testing it.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
Thermal Fuse WP3196548


Here's the video that shows you how to ohm test it:

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

altmad

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2022
Messages
3
Location
MA
Jake-

Thanks. I checked the thermal fuse and continuity was good and resistance was very low (0.1ohm)... so not that I think. I got at the controller board and checked continuity across the relays. The Bake relay (K4) is showing continuity which it shouldn't b/c it is a HF115F-Q SPST-NO relay... so with no power / current, it should be open, not closed. The others are all showing no continuity (as id expect). So - I think the K4 relay was fused closed when the element blew. But... I dont know how the oven controls these relays and if this explains my problem. Observing what definitely appears to be a failed relay I am going to order a new control board... but I am not sure I really understand the problem. Do you have any insights as to how the controller controls the relays to send current to the heating element? I would think it would close K4 and DLB (K13) when the oven is set to bake and the temperature is below a setpoint (w/deadbands).... then open it when the temperature hits the setpoint (w/deadbands). If the DLB relay was stuck open, that would explain it... but the other than K4 being closed when it should be open, visually everything else looks fine on the controller. I've attached the schematic.

Thanks!

Dave
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,217
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Yes, then the new control board should fix it. Let us know how it goes. Make sure you unplug or disconnect power to your machine first before you replace it.

Here's the control board for your model:

Here's the diagram I boxed in RED for the BAKE circuit:
(click to enlarge)
Screenshot 2022-03-05 20.13.09.png
See L1 goes to Bake (K4) and L2 goes to DLB (K13) so when you active the BAKE circuit those 2 relays CLOSE and the BAKE element gets 240 volts.:)

The same happened to this member and the new control board fixed his:

Jake
 

altmad

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2022
Messages
3
Location
MA
Jake-

Replaced the controller today and oven went right back to heating. Brought it up to 400° on convection bake as a test and let it sit there for a while. Thought I could declare complete victory, but then the oven randomly threw a F9E0 error later in the day while my wife was using the burners (which are gas, not electric) and the oven wasn't on at all. I flipped the breaker back and forth and it seemed to come back fine and is now heating again normally.

Looks like F9E0 is the error you get when the oven is wired incorrectly to the house 240V. I didn't change that at all, so wondering if somehow replacing the controller and testing things could have damaged wiring or something. Not sure how concerned to be... will wait and see if the error recurs or if it was a fluke.

Any thoughts?

Dave
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,217
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Ok Dave, sounds like your making progress, disconnect power to your range and check all the wiring again. If fine, then make sure you do STEP 6 and clear ALL the ERROR CODE/CODES from history and hopefully that will take care of it.

Screenshot 2022-03-12 13.04.57.png


Here's the tech data sheet for your model:
 

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