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KSV3213NL/01 Bosch Fridge/Freezer Compressor Clicks On/Off every few seconds

Marty9231

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
2
Location
Netherlands
Model Number
KSV3213NL/01
Brand
Bosch
Age
More than 10 years
Hello!

I have recently come upon a fairly old Bosch fridge/freezer combo (KSV3213NL/01) Since it has been used very little (has been sitting unplugged in a garage for over a decade) and is, at least visually, in incredible condition, I wanted to see if it worked so I could use or perhaps sell it.
I turned it on to see if it still worked, lo and behold it did! Lights went on, fan started spinning, compressor purring nicely. I noticed within an hour that the freezer compartment was freezing, the fridge part was well underway to being cold.

Later that day, I noticed that the fridge was basically room temperature and the freezer was defrosting. Worried, I checked to see what was wrong and found that the compressor no longer stayed on. It switches on with an audible 'click' once every 30s or so, as it is probably triggered by the thermostat panicking due to the high temperature, but it will only stay on for a few seconds and then shut off with the same audible 'click' sound again.

At first I suspected I may have overloaded the pipes a bit by having it set too cold, since the freezer froze in less than an hour, so I left it to defrost for 24h. The next day, turning it on gave me the same result: click on, 2-10 seconds of compressor, click off. Once every 30s or so, continuously.

Now, I know absolutely nothing about refrigerators, electronics or compressors, but to me the following things stuck out:
  • The freezer froze over the first time I turned it on, so it must've worked at some point. Of course it could just mean I broke it somehow, but maybe this is useful information to a veteran.
  • The compressor turns on and runs (it gets hot and rumbles slightly, it sounds like any other fridge while running), albeit for a short time, so it must be functional. (Right?)
  • If I leave the fridge on with the glitchy compressor doing its thing, it will cool the freezer slightly over time, indicating some cooling is still happening. Probably heavily reduced due to the very short compressor pulses.
  • The fridge light and circulation fan both work fine. No dust, no noise, everything seems okay.
  • The fact that the compressor turns on and runs for a while indicates to me that the start relay works fine, and so does the thermostat. (Right?)
  • There is no ice formation on anything. Not on the back of the freezer, not on or around the compressor or its pipes. Does that mean the refrigerant is fine? I read that lack of/low refrigerant will cause rapid ice buildup around the compressor.
  • There is no liquid that is leaking/pooling or any trace of refrigerant on the back of the fridge. There is (nearly) no dust on the back either.
In my very limited electronics experience, the clicking noise that shuts off the compressor seems to indicate some sort of safety/overload switch being triggered. Is there any way I can find out if a part is faulty using a multimeter? Also, am I right to conclude that my above observations rule out a faulty compressor itself? It makes sense to me, but I could be overlooking things.

If anyone knows anything I could do to test what might be wrong, or parts I could check to find the culprit I would really appreciate it!

Regards,

Marty
 

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,469
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Is there any way I can find out if a part is faulty using a multimeter?
Yes, but because of the area you're in I can't look up that model to see what style relay/overload you have. I'm also assuming your compressor runs on 120 VAC and not 220V. Here's how to check the compressor:

R -Compressor Windings Test NEW.jpg


How to test the PTC relay/overload and the start devise:

R-relay overload PTC.jpg
R-start device.jpg
 

Marty9231

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
2
Location
Netherlands
Okay, I have taken off the PTC relay/overload device, and measured everything I could think of. First off, here are some pictures of what they each looked like, in case I'm missing something:
IMG_4332.jpg

IMG_4334.jpg

IMG_4333.jpg


Now, I assume the device is not English, but the "C" is Common and the "S" should be Start. "M" is propbably some language's equivalent of Run.

The pins on the compressor:
  • Middle (C) to left (S): 30,0 Ohms
  • Middle (C) to right (M): 13,0 Ohms
  • Left (S) to right (M): 43,0 Ohms
The holes in the device:
  • Middle (C) to left (S): ~1300 Ohms
  • Middle (C) to right (M): ~1265 Ohms
  • Left (S) to right (M): 38,7 Ohms
And for what it's worth, the pins to ground:
  • Middle (C) to left (S): >200k Ohms
  • Middle (C) to right (M): >200k Ohms
  • Left (S) to right (M): >200k Ohms
None of my readings match with what I've read, neither positively nor negatively, but I imagine numbers will vary between compressors and brands. In both cases, two measurements will approximately add up to the third, but I'm not sure if that is of any significance.
Here is some more random info, should it prove useful:
  • There seems to be some sort of giant capacitor thing in the overload/relay, it says: "MM8-603B 2017" and "330M355"
  • The compressor is of the following type: DA125E13RAY5.
  • The click seems to be coming from the relay device (the circle at the top, more specifically), not the compressor. The click also happens if the power is cut and the compressor is off. (As if some sort of switch resets?)
Could anyone smarter than me make sense of these results?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,340
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Rick did you know he was in Netherlands?

We don't have any tech. data information on European models, so we may not be able to help you here. You can try UK Whitegoods.

Jake
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
36,469
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I'm also assuming your compressor runs on 120 VAC and not 220V.
Yeah, that's a 220-240 VAC compressor so you can't go by my diagrams. I'm not familiar with those so I can't help you. The piece you took off the compressor is the relay/overload combination. The round part is the overload and that's what's making the clicking noise you hear. It opens when it pulls too many amps or gets too hot. My guess is you have a bad compressor. The capacitor is either a run or start cap.
 
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