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KUDE70FXSS4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - not running properly

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
Model Number
KUDE70FXSS4
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Last week my wife let me know that our KitchenAid (KUDE70FXSS4) wasn’t starting consistently. Sometimes she would have to run the cycle three times to get it to actually run.

When I tried to run a Normal or 1 Hour cycle it would either start filling for a couple seconds or immediately go into a drain cycle (lasting sometimes a couple minutes).

I ran the diagnostics. The saved error codes were:

6-6 (Cool Water)

8-1 (Slow Drain)

3-3 (OWI Failure or Drain hose check valve not sealing)

After reporting the error codes the diagnostic failed on interval 19 as it had on the Normal wash cycle (quickly going to drain cycle then turning off).

I completely cleaned the drain hose and verified it was operating by manually filling the tub many times with water and running the drain cycle. It would empty without restrictions. I turned up the hot water heater and made a mental note to let the sink water heat up before running any other cycles.

I reset the circuit (15 minutes) and then re-ran getting same error codes. I figured out how to clear the codes (Hi Temp button at interval 20) and reset the washer again. Ran a Normal cycle. It began to fill and then stopped (blinking the Start button 2 or 3 times I believe) shut down the lights and went into the now familiar long drain cycle.

I read in this forum about the Door Vent issue. So I disconnected the vent at both connectors, turned on power. Same results.

I replaced the water inlet valve and turbidity sensor and reattached the door vent went through the same process and got the same results. First time starts to fill then quickly shuts down lights and goes into drain cycle.

I don’t think it is the door sensor as the drain cycle stops and resumes when I open and close the door and I get flashing lights if I set a wash cycle and do not close the door in 3 seconds.

I don’t think it is the float as I tested it in open and closed and know it is getting power and not stuck.

I ran a diagnostic test and got the 10-3 (Drying Fan Error) from when I had the Fan disconnected. After resetting the codes, I rerun diagnostic and get green light but same issue of filling a little the first time and then lights out and drain. Just draining after the initial run.



I did reconnect the fan at the same time I replaced the water inlet valve. Should I try disconnecting the fan again? I can hear the fan working after the initial failure following a power rest.

Anything else to consider before looking at replacing control panel or pump motor?

Appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you,

Keith



I did go through these great posts:

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainf...water-works-for-a-few-seconds-then-off.59845/

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainf...ontroller-board-or-touch-panel-i-think.77615/
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Keith,

When you first start the dishwasher it should fill, then you should hear the wash motor start and water splashing in the tub, are you hearing that happen at all?

I always remove the wash motor electrical connector and put my volt meter probes in it and check for 120 volts when the wash motor should be running.

Look at post #7 here: FIXED 665.13472N411 What to check on why it only washes about 5% of the cycle.

Unfortunately, the wash motor does not come separately, you have to order the pump/motor assembly to get it:

WPW10328226 PUMP&MOTOR


This video is very close to yours for accessing the wash motor and replacing the pump/motor assembly:


Jake
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Jul 11, 2006
Messages
41,273
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
Thank you both. Water does not fill the tub and there is no splashing sounds. It is definitely stopping before it fills (then shutting down and draining). If the wash motor or diverter failed wouldn't I see a 4-1/2 and/or 9-1/2/3 error?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
41,273
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Murray, Utah 84107, United States

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
LOL, good catch Rick, I didn't even catch that he said it only filled for a few seconds.

Sorry Keith, my bad.

Jake
 

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
Sorry for the confusion and thanks again for the help.

I replaced the water inlet valve and turbidity sensor and reattached the door vent went through the same process and got the same results. First time starts to fill then quickly shuts down lights and goes into drain cycle.
Next run it just flashes and goes into drain sequence. Replaced inlet valve and tested float.

Thanks again
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, Try this first--->Run the SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE, and let it run all the way through to reset it back to default.

Entry sequence: Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “Clean” LED with “Completed.”
The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

--->Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle.

LET IT RUN ALL THE WAY THROUGH: Service diagnostic cycle will take about 23 minutes.

Do that, and report back if its working good again.:)

If nothing changes, then the control board is the culprit.

Here's the control board for your model:
W10473197 Electronic Control Board


It's in-stock here:

Jake
 

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
Jake and Rick,
I am in Houston and have been battling other weather, power and water issues. The control board finally got here and I swapped it out...
Then I got a 4-1 error after running a diagnostic cycle. Darn. I have a pump assembly on its way and wanted to get a head-start on disassembly. I have probably a stupid question. The drain pump housing is not directly attached to the pump and motor (like I see all the videos) but uses a rubber attachment to connect the two. I am working on the dishwasher from the bottom since there is minimal clearance (and it would be a nightmare to remove). I don't want to break the rubber attachment.

Do I remove the attachment on the WPW10179455 where it attaches to the pump assembly (A) or where it attaches to the drain pump housing (B). Do I just pry it loose? Any help (or other advice) would be greatly appreciated.

1614829400832.png

THANK YOU!!

Keith
 

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
I got it off with a little plastic car interior 'pickle' tool at A. Just need to disconnect power and swivel three lock tabs now.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
117,160
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
They can't get swapped, the electrical connector to it only goes in one way.:)

Jake
 

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
Well I have replaced the control board and the pump assembly and I am still getting a 4-1 error (after clearing the errors and running diagnostic test). Any other ideas?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
117,160
Location
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Again, When you first start the dishwasher it should fill, then you should hear the wash motor start and water splashing in the tub, are you hearing water splashing in the tub at all?

If not, remove the wash motor electrical connector and put my volt meter probes in it and check for 120 volts when the wash motor should be running.

dishwash120volts.jpg


Jake
 

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
I see water go in but never see it splashing. If I can get the power off the pump without removing the entire dishwasher I will test tonight.

Otherwise can I check resistance and power at the control board?

Thank you Jake
 

rickgburton

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If I can get the power off the pump without removing the entire dishwasher
No problem. Just remove the lower panel and it's right there.
 

KeithGordon

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Houston
I am not sure I can even see the pump because the drain and diverter are blocking. It took me way long than it should have to get that drain motor on the pump assembly. Here is what it looks like:

1615336903311.png

If I go to the trouble of removing the drain pump I was just going to remove everything and maybe do a continuity check on the pump power lines before somehow checking for power to the pump connector. I will try to just remove the drain to see if I can access it. The other challenge is it has a white protective case around where the pump wires connect.
 
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