Whitworth Ranch
Member
- Model Number
- KUDE70FXSS5
- Brand
- KitchenAid
- Age
- 6-10 years
Recently this KitchenAid leaked out of the main motor. We paid to have the motor replaced. I won't go into the frustrating details. The drain pump had a broken impeller and was noisy. But the dishwasher was working and perhaps the tech was looking for another service call fee for the next visit to fix that one?
Some weeks later, the dishwasher stopped mid-cycle, as related here in this helpful thread on this forum. I expected the drain pump was going and I'd also gotten a diverter motor. So I popped those out and put them in. The dishwasher was quieter, but it stopped exactly the same way in mid-cycle.
I checked the codes and it gave me 6-6 water temperature "Cool Water". I checked continuity of the dishwasher heater element (turns out to be a 7 error code) and it was fine. I raised the temperature of our water heater to 130, as well. Nothing changed so I kept poking around. It's not made particularly clear that the thermistor is part of the OWI/Turbidity sensor (I was glad the tech sheet had schematics). But I got one of those and expected glory. But it did the same thing--quitting mid-cycle.
The new fault code was 6-1, Low/No water (mechanical problem).
Then I ran the dishwasher in 1 hour mode and it ran full cycle and cleaned the dishes giving me a "clean" light.
I found the thread I linked to above, which indicated I should try to run in Pro Wash with the vent fan in the door disconnected. I took apart the door.
I found water had been leaking in the door apparently for some time at the vent and perhaps also at the soap dispenser.
I unplugged the vent harness and reassembled the door.
The washer ran on Pro Wash, completed its cycle with no issue and the dishes are clean, green light at the end.
Photos below illustrate why I ask if I should continue to repair despite the above. We fixed it in the first place because hey, why throw so much that is OK away but I have spent a lotta hours working on this thing and learning how it works.
1. Round vent hole showing evidence of long-term leaking into the door.
2. Highly corroded soap dispenser bracket (from vent hole leak above or leaking on its own?)
3. The control board exposed. Is the yellowish coating on parts of the board normal?
4. This shows melted goo from the interior door insulation on the main AC power to where it plugs in the board. Wall voltage is 124 volts on my meter.
5. The plug view is the main power plug and the brownest female connector is the solid blue wire.
Should I replace the fan assembly and maybe the soap dispenser (about $200 combined), clean the rest of the connections under the dishwasher and cross fingers? Board is original, control panel is original, but the main motor, drain motor, and diverter have all been replaced.
Thanks for any expert advice.
Some weeks later, the dishwasher stopped mid-cycle, as related here in this helpful thread on this forum. I expected the drain pump was going and I'd also gotten a diverter motor. So I popped those out and put them in. The dishwasher was quieter, but it stopped exactly the same way in mid-cycle.
I checked the codes and it gave me 6-6 water temperature "Cool Water". I checked continuity of the dishwasher heater element (turns out to be a 7 error code) and it was fine. I raised the temperature of our water heater to 130, as well. Nothing changed so I kept poking around. It's not made particularly clear that the thermistor is part of the OWI/Turbidity sensor (I was glad the tech sheet had schematics). But I got one of those and expected glory. But it did the same thing--quitting mid-cycle.
The new fault code was 6-1, Low/No water (mechanical problem).
Then I ran the dishwasher in 1 hour mode and it ran full cycle and cleaned the dishes giving me a "clean" light.
I found the thread I linked to above, which indicated I should try to run in Pro Wash with the vent fan in the door disconnected. I took apart the door.
I found water had been leaking in the door apparently for some time at the vent and perhaps also at the soap dispenser.
I unplugged the vent harness and reassembled the door.
The washer ran on Pro Wash, completed its cycle with no issue and the dishes are clean, green light at the end.
Photos below illustrate why I ask if I should continue to repair despite the above. We fixed it in the first place because hey, why throw so much that is OK away but I have spent a lotta hours working on this thing and learning how it works.
1. Round vent hole showing evidence of long-term leaking into the door.
2. Highly corroded soap dispenser bracket (from vent hole leak above or leaking on its own?)
3. The control board exposed. Is the yellowish coating on parts of the board normal?
4. This shows melted goo from the interior door insulation on the main AC power to where it plugs in the board. Wall voltage is 124 volts on my meter.
5. The plug view is the main power plug and the brownest female connector is the solid blue wire.
Should I replace the fan assembly and maybe the soap dispenser (about $200 combined), clean the rest of the connections under the dishwasher and cross fingers? Board is original, control panel is original, but the main motor, drain motor, and diverter have all been replaced.
Thanks for any expert advice.
