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KUDI02FRSS1 Kitchenaid Dishwasher Blows Thermal Fuse after replacing practically everything!


Premium Member
Apr 19, 2023
Model Number
More than 10 years
Model: KUDI02FRSS1

I have replaced:

-Heating element 2 times both oem
-drain pump (non oem)
-wire harness (oem)
-wash pump assembly (oem)
-door latch (oem)
-door strike (oem)
-door switch (oem)
-high limit thermostat (oem)
-temperature/Turbidity sensor (non-oem)
-Control board 2 times with oem (first time was by a tech under home warranty and that actually was bad. 2nd time i saw some brown on the board due to heat and i replaced it but still the same symptoms.

RIght now i have an extra high limit theromstat installed in place of thermal fuse. It trips 2-3 times per cycle.

I have unplugged on alternating tests both the vent wax motor and the soap dispenser wax motor. That does not seem to help, but it did complete a cycle with both disconnected.

It completed a cycle with heating element disconnected, which is why i have the heating element a 2nd try. But origional and both addiyional heating elements al show proper resistance and no short to ground.

Water does not cover heating element when it stops with a pool of water in the tub.

I checked drain hose to make sure it was clear.

My thermocouple on ny multimeter shows about 140-144F when in the cycle which i think it is close enough to where it should be.

I have a spare fill valve that i was going to install the last time i pulled it out, but the hose fitting was not comming out easy and i have not stopped by home depot to get a new hose fitting for the new valve yet.

The wire harness was the last thing that i replaced along with a new control board and thermal fuse. It had ran fine for 2 weeks until my roommate used the sani rinse cycle.

I'm trying to avoid replacing just the dishwasher given that all the appliances currently match including pulls. I did not e pect to have to replace so many items, and now i am reluctant to give up and declare defeat

Any suggestions would be appreciated!


Hi Drew,

You are using the OEM thermal fuse that you got from a appliance parts store or appliance parts site like AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic, which Always has a 365 day warranty on ALL parts, are TRUE OEM.:)

Not from amazon or ebay? which may say OEM but are not officially OEM.

Yes, You must install the new wires that come with the thermal fuse kit or the thermal fuse will keep blowing out forever.

Here's the OEM thermal fuse for your model(Video Included in part link)
W10258275 Thermal Fuse
Two OEM thermal fuses were purchased from a local shop that sells appliance parts to repair techs. I used the wires the first time be cause the guy at the shop warned me that you have to use the wires when replacing the thermal fuse.

But the 2nd time I bought a wire harness that came in an oem bag (local shop could not get it) and the wireing harness came with an oem thermal fuse.

I did not cut the wires on the brand new harness to put the other leads on given it was brand new and came with a thermal fuse.

In either case, there was no difference, but the thermal fuse did last two weeks with the new wiring harness and new control board. That were all replaced at the same time.

Are you suggesting that I might be able to get a replacement thermal fuse every time it blows within a year if i purchase from one of those web sites with a 12 month warranty?

Last night the dishwasher completed the cycle with the heating element disconnected from power. Using a high limit thermostat as the thermal fuse... (i just got tired of buying a $30 thermal fuse for it to blow repeatedly while trying to figure out what is causing it to blow.)
Are you suggesting that I might be able to get a replacement thermal fuse every time it blows within a year if i purchase from one of those web sites with a 12 month warranty?
No, That's where the sell official OEM parts that come with a 365 day warranty.

If it keeps blowing that often, I'm puzzled by that too, I've replaced many of these thermal fuses for my customers and never had to replace one twice, so I'm not sure why yours keeps blowing.

You may want to have a tech come out to see why this is happening.

Two techs did come out. The first did not replace anything, just ordered parts. The 2nd installed an incorrect door strike that damaged my latch and caused it not to hold the door closed during the cycle after he couldn't put a new door seal on right, and made the first swap of the heating element and control board and thermal fuse. He did not change the thermal fuse leads. That's why i first bought new door strike and latch to have the correct parts to hold the door closed tight. You don't happen to be in the baltimore area, do you?

He was probably one bad apple amung good techs that are out there, but i have no way of knowing if the person showing up is more experienced than that guy. Thats why i'd rather slog along myself even if I do end up replacing an old part that's not bad since it is still cheaper than getting a tech out.

The test cycle shows no anomolies. Everything checks out by the multimeter with correct ohm readings. I have not checked the capacator for the wash pump motor, but that was replaced with with the pump assemblt swap which did not change symtoms of what the washer is doing.

I belive It has to be something that is shorting only at high temp and so far has been illusive. I was hoping maybe someone else here experienced the same issue and solved it.

I even checked the grinder last week just to make sure nothing hard was stuck in there and it looked good.

I picked up the fitting for the water fill valve thursday. I am going to swap the water fill valve next week since that is the only thing left to change that I can't disconnect and still run a cycle. (Besides the touch panel with all the buttons that is.)

Thanks for taking the time to review my issue!
You don't happen to be in the baltimore area, do you?
Nope, I'm in Arizona.

Yes, too much heat makes the thermal fuse blow out.

If you've already replaced the OEM thermal fuse and the wires that came with it, then I don't know what else could be causing it.

Here's another person that had this same issue:

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