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FIXED KUDK02CRBS0 Intermittent panel lights, then no lights and no response

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Premium Member
May 22, 2014
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I don't know much about the history of this appliance since it was already in the home when we moved in about 6 months ago. I'm guessing it's at least 5+yrs old. About one month ago the control panel buttons started acting up a bit and became progressively worse. The "Cancel" button would sometimes flash repeatedly, other buttons wouldn't respond, but eventually I would be able to get a cycle to start. Occasionally the tub would be left with standing water, although I'm not so sure that wasn't being caused by the orientation of its drainage tube connected to the garbage disposal. Dishes were typically clean. Then out of nowhere, no lights on the control panel and no response to any button presses.

I read somewhere about alternating presses between Hi Temp Scrub and Heat Dry buttons 5 times for a reset; tried that I got nothing. I used a multimeter to test the thermal fuse and door switch, both were good. I ordered and installed a new electronic control board (W10084141 Electronic Control Board), but still nothing. Not sure where to go from this point.

First look at the ribbon connector between the console and the control board. Make sure there is no corrosion on either connector and it's all the way on the pins.

If it looks good, replace the console:
WP8572349 Console
Thanks Rick.

I'll have to take a closer look at each individual pin for the ribbons. Besides just visual inspection, is there a procedure to use the multimeter to test for continuity between the control board and control panel?

Also, if I do need to replace the control panel, do I actually need the entire console that you linked to?

Or could I simply use this instead, WP8531873 Interconnect ? From the parts diagram, it doesn't look like there are any additional electronic components with the "console" vs the control panel, except maybe a new ribbon.
do I actually need the entire console that you linked to? ...it doesn't look like there are any additional electronic components with the "console" vs the control panel,
I'm glad you mentioned that! I'm so use to the keypanel being on top of the console piece that I linked to, that I just assumed. I looked up the machine again. Whenever the machine is dead or won't power up, no keypad response or no LED's display, the first thing I check is the supply voltage to the machine, the door switch(s), and the thermal fuse. That leaves the control board and console. A blinking LED or unusual display or one or more Key pads don't respond it has always been the console. If a component like motor, heater, or water valve is working intermittently and the component checks good it's usually the control board. Now, on your machine I try to read between the lines a little. In your first post you said, "control panel buttons started acting up", "The "Cancel" button would sometimes flash repeatedly", "other buttons wouldn't respond". These are all indications of a bad keypanel. Then when I add to that you checked the door switch and thermal fuse and replaced the control board, that just leaves the key panel.

However, there is a way to check it. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power. Open the dishwasher door. Open console and disconnect the keypad ribbon connection from the control (at P1). If your control does not have a P1 connector, disconnect the P1 connector on the interconnect. Make sure all other connections are made. Put console back together. Do not close the dishwasher door. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power. Wait 5 seconds. Close dishwasher door. Monitor the control’s response.

➔If the control board is OK (no longer sees shorts with the keypad unplugged), it will respond by turning on the drain motor for 2 minutes.

Check and/or replace the keypad if the control board responds OK, this is the correct part:
WP8573046 Overlay (black)

➔If the control board is not OK (still sees shorts with the keypad unplugged), then the drain motor will NOT respond. If drain motor does not start within 10 seconds, repeat or verify that all steps were followed, and then replace the control board.

I don't have the tech sheet for that exact model so I'm referencing from KUDK03C**** tech sheet. Your tech sheet will be either behind the lower panel or taped to the bottom of the tub.
I just read through all that. I think I understand the procedure, but I'm still a bit unclear about the console vs control panel vs interconnect. Are those 3 separate parts?

I'm finding the following parts online:
Overlay: WP8573046 Overlay (black)
Interconnect: WP8531873 Interconnect
Console: WP8572349 Console

It seems that the "Console" is the "interconnect" being sold with the plastic housing. The "interconnect" is just the individual circuit board as a standalone part. And the overlay is just the face plate...Is this correct? If the above outlined procedure results in the drain pump being activated, then which of those 3 parts would I need to replace?
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So essentially I disconnect the interconnect from the front keypanel/faceplate.

I'm going to try this later tonight.

If the drain motor activates after the procedure, then the "Overlay" needs to be replaced, and not the interconnect? I was initially thinking that the 'interconnect" was what people typically refer to as the control panel, but in fact the control panel is the overlay/exterior keypad?
Yes, that's correct. Normally the overlay is part of the console. The interconnect is nothing but a "splitter" . I don't see any electrical components on it. Looks like a "coupler" if you will.
On a typical Whirlpool dishwasher console that's the same style as yours the console and overlay are one part where the keypanel is along the top of the door:
WP KM Dishwasher Console.jpg
The drain activated, so just waiting on the new console to arrive. Thanks again. I'll update when it gets installed.
The overlay is what I was referring to when I said console in my first post. You and me both, brother!6c2ba386.x120.gif
Just wanted to say thanks again. I replaced the keypad this morning and everything is now working perfectly. I tore apart the old keypad it was clear that something had burned out. There was a small burn mark on one of the circuits, no bigger than the size of a pin head.
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