FIXED KUDK03ITWH2 KitchenAid dishwasher sticks in wash drain mode

[DMG]

Model Number

KUDK03ITWH2

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

KitchenAid dishwasher sticks in wash drain mode, pump runs until canceled, never advances to rinse.

My KitchenAid KUDK03ITWH2 washes then drains then gets stuck in the wash drain mode, pump continues to run until I stop the cycle or open the door. It never fills for the rinse cycle. I hit the High Temp Scrub and Heat Cycle buttons in series repeatedly 4 or 5 times and all lights lit up then it went through the reset by running several different cycles over a few minutes then shut off. That did not resolve the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards,
DMG

 

[Jake]

Hi DMG,

The problem is possibly the control board, usually you will notice burnt components on it when you look at it. Turn the breaker off to your dishwasher first before accessing/replacing it.

Here's the control board for your model you can order ($60 CASH BACK OFFER):
Main Control Board WPW10084142


For a video to access it, Click here: WPW10084142 Electronic Control

Jake

 

[DMG]

New control board did not resolve the issue and no burn marks on old board.

Hi Jake,

I replaced the main control board and that didn't resolve the issue. Also, there were no noticeable burn marks on the old board. It just pumps out the wash water then never fills for the rinse. Also, where it gets stuck, it sounds like the pump is still running but a little louder than what you hear at the beginning of a drain cycle; it sounds like a wash mode but without water. Every time I open the door its warm inside with a little vapor but no water. When I hit cancel, it goes into a short drain mode before shutting off but that's much quieter than the mode it gets stuck on after a wash mode.

Thanks

 

[Jake]

Ok,

You'll need a multimeter to test for 120 volts to the water inlet valve when it should be filling at the RINSE cycle.

What I do is take the electrical connector off of the water inlet valve and put my meter probes in each of the two electrical terminals, then WAIT for the dishwasher to fill in RINSE and see if your volt meter reads 120 volts.

--->But, First check your float switch, that comes before your water inlet valve. Also check the float itself to make sure its not stuck in the UP position, because that would cause you not to read 120 volts at the water inlet valve.

--->Move the float UP and DOWN and listen for a clicking sound as you do that.

--->The float switch is underneath your tub just under the float stem.

If the meter reads 120 volts then that indicates the water inlet valve is the culprit.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model you can order if needed:
WPW10158389 Water Inlet Valve


Click the part link and there is a video there to show you how to access it.

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[DMG]

Will I be able to return the return the main control board

Will I be able to return the return the main control board I bought for a refund?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Jake]

Yes, if you bought it at RepairClinic, but don't return it yet till you test for 120 volts at the water inlet valve.

Jake

 

[DMG]

It's not even getting to rinse fill mode.

Yes, if you bought it at RepairClinic, but don't return it yet till you test for 120 volts at the water inlet valve.

Jake

Greetings again Jake,

I removed the front bottom panel to access the inlet fill valve and found the Wiring diagram/Service Technicians Sheet so I ran the dishwasher through the Service Diagnostics Mode and all looked okay in each mode as best I could see. This unit only has LED's, no digital displays. I then pulled the electrical connector from the fill valve and inserted the multimeter leads into the connector then started the dishwasher in normal wash mode and the leads indicated 120V when the system started.

I'm assuming the valve is closed by default and needs voltage to open because the dishwasher never filled to begin the wash cycle and I waited several minutes. I opened the door and there wasn't any water in the washer so I reattached the inlet valve electric connector and the valved opened and filled the dishwasher then it began the wash cycle.

When the wash completed it went to drain mode then I heard what sounded like a couple surging water sounds, almost like a power wash thrusting sounds, and the pump ran and emptied the washer and the pump just continued to run and run so I opened the door to check and it was empty and the float was down and looked to operate correctly so i pulled the inlet valve connector and it showed voltage momentarily then none so I closed the door and resumed the cycle and the connector showed no voltage and the pump just continued to run and run, never stopping to even start the rinse fill mode.

Ugh

 

[Jake]

Ok,

Lets check the OWI soil sensor.

Here's the tech. data sheet for this model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzvgAyLTSh14cS1wb2liNnlwakk

OWI soil sensor is possibly picking high soil cycle too often.

Run Service Diagnostics to check present operation of OWI soil sensor and force a calibration to occur during the next regular wash cycle.

Under SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE NOTES --->Its in NOTE 6

Do you notice too many suds in the water when you open the door?

You may want to remove the OWI soil sensor and clean the lens on it, another member did that and it fixed this problem, Watch the video below to access it.

Here's the OWI soil sensor for your model:
Turbidity Sensor WPW10705575


[video=youtube_share;rXt7WYJ8gng]https://youtu.be/rXt7WYJ8gng[/video]

Jake

 

[DMG]

OWI soil sensor/Turbidity sensor was the issue

We never had any suds issue and I had already run the service diagnostics but couldn't get to the calibration cycle because the cycle wouldn't run all the way through to completion so I just replaced the OWI soil sensor/Turbidity sensor with a new one and that was the issue. I selected Light/China and it went all the way through but with the extra rinse cycles for calibration because this was the first complete cycle because I replaced a bad sensor. My wife just ran the normal cycle and when it got to the stall step, it ran for a little bit then stopped and restarted, stopped, restarted then continued with no issues!

Thank you very much for the help! I guess the last step is to return the main control board I purchased.

Kind regards,
Don

 

[Jake]

Excellent Don, glad the new OWI sensor fixed it.

Thanks for the update!

Yes, you can return the control board for a full refund, less shipping.

Jake