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FIXED KUDP01ILWH Burning on heating element tripped something?

elocin71

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
8
Location
WA
Model Number
KUDP01ILWH
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
More than 10 years
My Kitchenaid dishwasher suffered from the faulty part that was involved in a lawsuit. Luckily ours didn't start a fire but started melting during use while we were home. Kitchenaid paid to replace the board portion. The thermal fuse blew after the warranty period (of course) and it worked fine for four months until I washed a sponge that fell down onto the heating element. A corner of the sponge was burnt off. I suspect that it would have started a fire if it hadn't used up all of the oxygen inside. The lights on the panel still lit up but after hitting start, the 'sensing' and 'add a dish' sensors wouldn't light up. We opened up the panel and checked the thermal fuse, which was ok. After putting it back together, the 'sensing' and 'add a dish' light up after hitting start but then promptly shut off with a click. Is there something else that we can test? The dishwasher was working great previously and I am hesitant to replace it, especially with all the horrible reviews I've read for new dishwashers. Or is it time to just give in?

TIA
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,662
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Check the door switch for continuity. Always remove at least one wire from the part being checked for continuity. High ohms is a bad switch. Measure the voltage between P7 and P2-6 on the control (120 VAC) and P7 and P8 with the door switch closed (120 VAC). If the voltage is correct and the door switch tests good replace the console:
Touchpad and Control Panel WP8531243
Touchpad-and-Control-Panel-WP8531243-01265104.jpg
 

elocin71

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
8
Location
WA
Would the "Add a dish" and "sensing" lights still light up if the door switch was bad? They will only light up when the door is closed, which makes me think that the door switch is ok.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,662
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Maybe, If the switch has high ohms there might be enough contact in the switch to illuminate the LED'S since it uses very low voltage. You need to open it up anyways to measure the control board voltage and the switch is right there.
 

elocin71

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
8
Location
WA
maybe it's the wires?

Finally got a chance to crack it open again. They all have continuity however the P8 looks singed as well as most of the connections on the P7-P10 wires plus P6. I do wonder if some of the damage wasn't done previously and the repairman didn't replace the wires. Could replacing those fix it? I don't want to install a new board and then have it happen again.

Thank you for all your help.

image1.jpg

image2.jpg
 

elocin71

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
8
Location
WA
Just some money I guess. It looks like I'd have to replace the entire wire harness but I don't feel comfortable doing that. Thanks for the advice :)
 

elocin71

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
8
Location
WA
So then I wouldn't need the connectors that the wires are currently clamped into?

- - - Updated - - -

For $3.35, that is definitely worth a shot. I thought that I would at least have to replace the connectors.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,662
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,662
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Well like I said earlier, you can try it. You're not out anything except $3 in wire terminals.
 

elocin71

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
8
Location
WA
Purchased some of those connectors at Home Depot and it worked! Thank you so much. Hopefully this holds!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
37,662
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
It will hold for a while but keep in mind you haven't fixed anything. the control board is is causing the connectors to heat up by drawing a lot of current through the wires. It will most likely happen again.
 

elocin71

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
8
Location
WA
I am hoping that the wire burnout was from the previous board malfunction. They supposedly fixed the board so it wouldn't do this so I guess it's just a waiting game to see if it will happen with this one too. Thanks again!
 
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