KUDS30CXSS0 Heating problems

Jeffhalljr

Premium Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Atlanta ga
Model Number
KUDS30CXSS0
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
After running the washer diagnostics I am receiving a 7-1, 6-2, and 3-3 fault codes. I went ahead and ordered a replacement heating element from sears parts direct.

After installing the heating element, running the diagnostic cycle, and running a complete cycle that did not appear to work. I had also purchased a replacement thermostat just Incase. I went through the same process and that did not fix the issue either.

I tested the new heating element and it read 0 ohms which caused me to doubt the element was good. I promptly received a replacement element from the supplier. When it arrived it also read 0 ohms. To double check I was not crazy I have watched several videos online to make sure I was measuring correctly and indeed should get something other than 0 or 1 (which I confirmed). Any thoughts?

By the way I also measured the old heating element and it read .78 ohms and the old and new thermostat read 0 ohms.

To address the 3-3 code I removed the Turbidity sensor, cleaned it and reinstalled it. Once I ran the diagnostic cycle again it did not clear the code.

If you have some ideas on the above and next steps I would appreciate it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Tyler H

Premium Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Alberta
I am starting down this same path. The element won't heat. I checked the thermostat. Seems to have continuity.
 

Jeffhalljr

Premium Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Atlanta ga
Attachments

For further context to my origional post please see the below pictures.

Multimeter settings
Thermostat.png

Old vs New Thermostat
Multimeter.png

Old VS New Heating Element
Heatint Element.png
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,977
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You have your meter set way too high at 2 million ohms, it needs to be set at 200 ohms.:)

Put the meter at 200 ohms then ohm test it.:)

Jake
 

Jeffhalljr

Premium Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Atlanta ga
Next Step - Control Board

After using my multimeter correctly I have moved on to the control board...

I noticed that there are heat marks in the power input, heating element, thermal fuse input. See pictures below. I did test the thermal fuse and it reads 0 ohms. I also tested the wiring and it seems ok as well.

Is there a way to test the board or do I just get a replacement?

Connector
IMG_0048.jpg

Back of the control board
IMG_0046.jpg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,977
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, 13.5 ohms is much better.:)


I noticed that there are heat marks in the power input, heating element, thermal fuse input. See pictures below. I did test the thermal fuse and it reads 0 ohms. I also tested the wiring and it seems ok as well.

Is there a way to test the board or do I just get a replacement?
Yuppers, your control board is the problem, I clearly see the burnt spots on it. You need to replace it.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:
WPW10380685 Electronic Control Board


You get $60 cash back on your credit card when you return your old control board.:)

Total price with CASH BACK is $103.63

Jake
 
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