KUDS30IXSS8 Kitchenaid Dishwasher wont cycle

[mstriker513]

Model Number

KUDS30IXSS8

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

I have a KitchenAid Dishwasher that is almost 10 years old, and suddenly will not cycle. When the cycle start button is pressed, the normal lights will stay on for about 1 minute, and then the drain motor starts, and lights go out except the Cancel/Drain light comes on while it drains, and then that light goes out for about 30 seconds and then comes back on for about 10 seconds and trys to drain again.

I think I got it to go into diagnostic mode by pressing the first 3 buttons successively 3 times, and got a 6 - 4 code (which repeated 4 times) and then it seemed to flash a 10 - 1 code a couple times. What I have found for the 6 - 4 code seems to say to "Level" the dishwasher, which seems like an installation issue and mine has not been moved in almost 10 years.

Does this code also mean the level switch is bad? What if anything does the 2nd 10 - 1 code mean? Also, at times now it seems like the buttons are not very responsive. They respnod better once I trip the circuit breaker off and back on. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Jake]

6-4 is INLET WATER--->FLOAT SWITCH OPEN.
10-1 is OTHER--->DISPENSER ELECTICAL PROBLEM.

I'm attaching your data sheet below.

It possibly your control panel assembly or control board is the problem.

Do this test below to verify which part is the culprit:
- Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
- Disassemble door and disconnect keypad connection from control board or LCD display module.
- Verify all other connections to control board are made.
- Reassemble door, but do not close door.
- Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.
- Wait at least 7 seconds for control board to power up completely.
- Close dishwasher door and monitor control board response:
A. If control board is OK (no longer sees stuck keys with keypad unplugged), it will respond by turning on the drain motor for 2 minutes. Replace control panel.
B. If control board is not OK (still sees stuck keys with keypad unplugged), it will not turn on drain motor. Wait for at least 10 seconds. If there is still no drain response, then replace control board or LCD display module (whichever one the keypad was connected to).

Here's the control panel assembly for your model you can order, if the drain motor turns on for 2 minutes:
WPW10500175 Panel-Cntl


Here's the control board for your model, if needed:
W11035586 Electronic Control Board


When you click the part link to the control board you will see a video on how to access it.

Let us know what you find.

 

[mstriker513]

Jake,

Thanks for all that information! I just got done looking over what you said. Are you saying that even though the diagnostic test is saying "6 - 4 - Inlet Water - Float switch Open" you think the float switch is OK, and the problem is eaither A the Control Panel or B the Control Board? I suspect the Float Level switch is relatively easy to check for continuity and relatively cheap (compared to the Control Panel or Control Board) should I check the switch first and rule it out as the problem?


Mark

 

[Jake]

When the cycle start button is pressed, the normal lights will stay on for about 1 minute, and then the drain motor starts, and lights go out except the Cancel/Drain light comes on while it drains

Ok, I thought it was filling when you first started the dishwasher, since you mentioned it drained.

You will need a multimeter.

When it DOESN'T fill with water, you will need to check for 120 volts at the electrical connector that attaches to the water inlet valve. If your meter DOESN'T read 120 volts when it should be filling, first remove your tub float to make sure there isn't a foreign object underneath it or gunk buildup underneath it. When you pull the float up and let it go down you should hear the float switch click each time you do that as well.

Here's the float for your model:
Float WPW10195036


When you click the link to the float you will see a video of how to remove it.

Looks like they changed how to remove it, now you have to go from underneath and move the float stem out of the channel its in, then it will pull out.

It used to just pull out from the top without doing anything underneath it.

If you find nothing underneath it, next check your float switch.

Here's the float switch for your model, when you click the link to it you will see 2 videos, 1 on how to access it, 1 on how to ohm test it:

Dishwasher Float Switch - WPW10195039 | Fast Shipping - Repair Clinic

Buy Float Switch, Part #WPW10195039 with fast shipping! Our 365-day return policy guarantees you'll always get the right part!

www.repairclinic.com

If your float and float switch are good, and you get 120 volts at the water inlet valve electrical connector, when you first start a new cycle, then that means the water inlet valve is the culprit or the water inlet valve screen is clogged with sediment.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
WPW10327249 Water Inlet Valve

 

[mstriker513]

Jake,

In my original note I said that about a minute after hitting the start button, the dishwasher starts draining (or trying to drain), but I do not hear it trying to fill before it trys to drain. Looking at the tech sheet you sent me, I see that the first couple of minutes the washer should be filling (and it is not). I removed and checked the float and it seems ok, and I also checked the float switch with ohm meter and it seems to be making/breaking ok. I then checked the fill valve and it does not have continuity, so I think it has failed electrically. I have ordered a new valve and will let you know what happens when I install it. Thanks for your help.


Mark

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds like you found the problem Mark, good job.

Yes, let us know how it goes after you install the new water inlet valve.

 

[mstriker513]

Jake,

Well, the new valve arrived, and I checked the resistance on the new valve and it check 1500 ohms, and I installed it. Then, I re checked the old valve (since it was now out of the dishwasher) and it was at first intermittent no continuity and then seemed to settle in at about 1000 ohms. I am not sure why I am getting something different now.

Even though my original checks 2 days ago were with the valve installed, I thought I was careful and had the meter leads on the terminals of the valve. At any rate with the new valve installed, I turned on the dishwasher and started a cycle, and I could hear the dishwasher filling (which I could not hear with the old valve). It seemed to run for about 10 minutes, but then it shut off and the green "Clean" light did not come on.

Also, I noticed at that point that the control buttons would not respond. So then I flipped the breaker off/on, and then the control panel was able to respond. I went ahead and ran the diagnostic code again (by pressing the first 3 buttons sequntially 3 times) and this time got 3 codes, 6-4, 3 times, 10-1, 3 times, and 6-6, 3 times.

At the end of those codes, the dishwasher seems to go through some abbreviated cycle, and then it seems to get stuck in a loop where either all lights are off for a minute, and then the "Cancel/Drain" light comes on for 30 seconds and then goes out and the loop repeats.

Let me know your thoughts....my wife is now giving me her thoughts that she wants a new dishwasher.....


Mark

 

[Jake]

Ok Mark, sounds like the control board is the culprit, its doing too many weird things now.

Turn the house breaker off to your dishwasher, then check to see if you notice any burnt components on the circuit board. Remove the plastic covering from the control board so you can get a good look at the control circuit board.

Here's the control board for your model:
W11035586 Electronic Control Board


When you click the part link to the control board you will see a video on how to access it.

Here's another member with this similar issue and uses the same control board yours does:

FIXED - Kitchenaid dishwasher KUDC10FXSS5 ends cycle early

My dishwasher runs for a couple of minutes but just after the first wash cycle is started it goes to cancel/drain and then stops. I ran the diagnostics cycle and see the codes 6-2 and then 6-6, but the diagnostics cycle is also terminating early on step 18. Like in normal operation, the...

www.applianceblog.com