FIXED KUDS35FXSS8 KitchenAid Dishwasher won't turn on - no burn marks

[ChadW]

Model Number

KUDS35FXSS8

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

6-10 years

I have the KitchenAid dishwasher model KUDS35FXSS8. One moment, I'm pushing the buttons and things are working and the next, the lights went off and it's completely unresponsive. Unplugging the dishwasher and plugging it back in did not correct the issue. I took the door panel off and looked at the control board. I did not find any visible burn marks on the wiring and tested the voltage coming into the board (at the connectors) to be 120V. I read somewhere that unplugging the control panel from the board and power cycling the unit, followed by closing the door after 10 seconds should turn on the pump (as a diagnostic test). However, after following those directions, my pump did not turn on. I'm uncertain though if that test is valid for my model.

Before I purchase a new control board, is there a more positive way to know if that's the part I need to fix my problem?

 

[Jake]

Yes, I confirmed it.

Do this below:
- Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
- Disassemble door and disconnect keypad connection from control board or LCD display module.
- Verify all other connections to control board are made.
- Reassemble door, but do not close door.
- Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.
- Wait at least 7 seconds for control board to power up completely.
- Close dishwasher door and monitor control board response:
A. If control board is OK (no longer sees stuck keys with keypad unplugged), it will respond by turning on the drain motor for 2 minutes. Replace keypad and console.
B. If control board is not OK (still sees stuck keys with keypad unplugged), it will not turn on drain motor. Wait for at least 10 seconds. If there is still no drain response, then replace control board or LCD display module (whichever one the keypad was connected to).

Here's the control board for your model:
Control Board W10479761


Also--->First remove the electrical connector from the door latch switch and ohm test it for continuity, also see if its broken. I had one TWO months ago that no lights would come on and sure enough the door latch switch was broken, and that will cause the control console lights NOT to come on, BUT on the one I had the cycle would not even start and no lights at all, like its dead.

Here's the door latch switch for your model:
W10619006 Door Latch Assembly


"How to" video included in part link to remove and replace it.

Jake

 

[ChadW]

Thank you Jake for the thorough response. My switch tested fine so I'll order a new control board and report back.

 

[ChadW]

So one thing I should have noticed earlier is shown in this picture. I don't know what that brown layer is on the interior of the door but it looks to have melted in a few spots (near the top and bottom third). The wires have some of the material on their insulation too but their insulation seems to be intact. I'm not sure if I should concern myself with this or not.

 

[Jake]

Take that plastic cover off the control board, it just unsnaps off, then you can get a good view of the circuit board.

Yes, I've seen that happen before, no worries unless the wire insulation has melted too.

Jake

 

[ChadW]

Just reporting back. I replaced the control board and it's working again. Thank you for your help.

 

[Jake]

Excellent Chad, glad to hear the new control board fixed it.

Thanks for the update!

Jake