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KUIC15PLTS1 stand alone ice maker not pumping water from reservoir to ice plate

rgb72dpi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Chicago, IL
Model Number
KUIC15PLTS1
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
6-10 years
Hello helpful people! I have a KitchenAid KUIC15PLTS1 stand alone ice maker that decided to stop making ice. To the best of my knowledge, everything is working aside from the recirculation pump. The unit powers on, fills the reservoir, the drain pump works, the sheet cutters are getting warm, etc...The only thing not happening is that once the reservoir is full, the water never gets circulated to the top of the maker (ice plate).
I pulled almost all the parts out, and gave everything a good clean (which is hard with my big 'ol hands in that tiny space). Put it all back together and it reacted the same way. So I ordered and replaced the recirculation pump.

But it did nothing different.

So now I have a very clean ice maker that still isn't making ice...AND after calling around to a bunch of local repair folks, I can't even find anyone willing to fix stand-alone ice machines! That leads me back to the DIY route.

I'm comfortable enough doing handy things, so that's not an issue, but I don't know where to turn next. Any suggestions on what I can do next? I feel like it might be an electrical issue?

Thanks,
Brendan
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Brendan,

I'm attaching the tech data sheet below, look on page 3 and get into the diagnostics, then activate the recirculation pump in Steps--->Order 5 and see if it comes on, if not check for a broken wire from the control board to the recirculation pump, if no broken wires then your control board is the culprit.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:
Main Control Board WPW10141364


This part qualifies for $60.00 cash back!

Here's how it works:
Order the new part.
Return the old part, along with the packing slip from your order, using the manufacturer's box your new part arrived in.
RepairClinic will refund your credit card for $60.00.

Jake
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good.

Jake
 

rgb72dpi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Chicago, IL
Whelp, i ran through the diag and here's what I got:

1. The bin thermistor (indicated OK)

2. The evaporator thermistor (indicated OK.)

3. The reservoir fill Function (the water shuts off after it overflows for a bit and the drain pump ran a couple times due to overflow, but the "service" light continues to blink indicating the reservoir is empty even though it is not)

4. The recirculation pump (does not operate.)All lights on as diagnostic anticipates

5. The drain pump (does not operate.) First light on as diagnostic anticipates

6. Compressor (seems to respond accordingly)

7. The hot gas function (seems to respond accordingly)

8. Max ice (Indicated OK)

9. Ice thickness (indicated OK)

Do you still think it's the board you mentioned even with the reservoir sensor not responding properly?

What the level of difficulty on the board replacement?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
That's very strange.

5. The drain pump (does not operate.) First light on as diagnostic anticipates
Why is the drain pump not coming on in diagnostics, when you say its working in 3--->The reservoir fill Function (the water shuts off after it overflows for a bit and the drain pump ran a couple times due to overflow?

And why is it overflowing?

Seems like you have multiple problems going on here, it would be best to have a Tech come out before spending $400 on a control board.

Jake
 

rgb72dpi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Chicago, IL
Jake,
I'm not sure the drain pump is supposed to operate during the diagnostic (would it really run dry?) - the lights indicate that it is operating as expected.

As for Step #3, the reservoir fill function works, the fill just runs a bit longer than it takes to fill the reservoir, so the overflow runs down the backside tube through to the drain, which then triggers the drain pump to kick on. All of that seems to be working as it should, other than if there's a sensor that is supposed to stop the fill process once the reservoir is full. It doesn't run for that much longer once it's full, and if I remember correctly, it was doing that even when the unit was making ice.

Is there a fill sensor that is supposed to stop the fill? I assumed the fill was just set on a timer vs relying on a sensor.

Brendan
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Brendan,

Yes its suppose to stop the fill, here it is for your model:
Sensor WPW10548509


Jake
 

rgb72dpi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Chicago, IL
Jake, I'll order one of these now. Would this part malfunctioning prohibit the recirculation pump from working, or do you think I have something else going on as well?

Thanks!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Like I mentioned in post #2--->In the tech data sheet, look on page 3 and get into the diagnostics, then activate the recirculation pump in Steps--->Order 5 and see if it comes on, if not check for a broken wire from the control board to the recirculation pump, if no broken wires then your control board is the culprit.

You can also check for 12 volts DC to it with a multimeter, when it should be ON and RUNNING. Just remove the electrical connector to it and put your meter probes in that electrical connector and see if your meter reads 12 volts DC.

Jake
 

rgb72dpi

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Chicago, IL
Happy new year Jake!
Well, I wish I had better news to report. I wasn't able to get a reading with the multimeter (I'm pretty sure I'm using it properly!) - but after taking out most of the pieces, and the top of the machine, I cannot really find/see a broken wire behind the connector plate.
Once I have the top off, I'm hesitant to take off the freeze plate to get to the back of the panel that holds the plug in for the reticulation pump, drain pump and the sensor. I would like to remove it to get a better look, but not being familiar with how flexible the copper tubing is, I didn't want to pull anything too hard.
If I were able to remove or move that piece, i'd be able to get a better look at the full wire from control board to socket.

Any thoughts?

Thank you,
Brendan
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
122,630
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Happy New Year Brendan!

after taking out most of the pieces, and the top of the machine, I cannot really find/see a broken wire behind the connector plate.
Ok.

Once I have the top off, I'm hesitant to take off the freeze plate to get to the back of the panel that holds the plug in for the reticulation pump, drain pump and the sensor. I would like to remove it to get a better look, but not being familiar with how flexible the copper tubing is, I didn't want to pull anything too hard.
If I were able to remove or move that piece, i'd be able to get a better look at the full wire from control board to socket.

Any thoughts?
Just be careful, because you don't want to break or kink the refrigerator tubing.

I have never done that before either, so I really can't tell you how to do it. Just go slow. And just gently move the refrigerator tubing out of the way to get access to the rest of the wires.

Jake
 
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